Ace-Garageguy

I use photobucket. Never ever have to bother re-sizing anything. All automatic.

How many angels can dance on top of a 1:25 scale bumper guard that may or may not exist?

OK boys. This is a SERIOUSLY quick hillclimb / slalom car. It's setup to go over a measured course AS QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE. That's called "racing"...as opposed to "posing"...which is pretending you have a seriously quick car, but you're too stupid to actually know the difference, and involves sliding around making a lot of smoke and noise, slowly, while you destroy tires. It's not some tarded-out super-cambered fashion-BS tires-on-the-wrong-rims, I-wanna-look-just-like-the-other-idiots-that-don't-understand-suspension that doesn't do anything except look stupid, and label its owner as a moron. Notice the camber on this car. It's enough to do the job. No more. It would eat the lunch of ANY of these idiot way-cambered piles. And in case anybody STILL doesn't get it...remember this car? Driven by one of the world-masters of car control, a guy who actually KNOWS HOW TIRES AND SUSPENSION WORK, and proves it every time. Notice the camber.

Here's two real cars with the old, rear-distributor Hemi. Both cars are '28-'29 bodies on '32 rails, which this new kit gives you. If the old Hemi will fit, the later-model 440 and even the 426 Hemi should shoehorn in there.

The too-square front fender corners probably have more to do with the design of the tooling being able to release the molded part than anything else. There's plenty of plastic there to file them rounder to make the necessary correction, and these kits are so great otherwise, I find this minor issue very easy to forgive.

Like it a lot, really love that engine. I'm starting to pay a lot more attention to the Asian hot-rods. This would be a fine car to get stuck driving every day.

Nice. Good to see one of these built stock.

I'm confused. The OP is asking about the availability of a specific truck in kit form. Please help me understand why this rates as "off topic".

My personal favorite of that era 6X6 truck...I think this was built from a 1/35 Italeri kit.

Yes. It's shown in black on the blue-highlighted cooling system drawing above. In the ad photo, it looks like the T-connector to the water pump and the head is missing. The Allison service manual calls it out as the "spark plug cooling manifold" and it's clearly shown here. I haven't seen one of these engines in the flesh for quite a few years, and I've forgotten exactly how it's plumbed into the water pump. There are variations, but in general, the colored drawings (also from the factory manual) should get everything going in the right directions. The engine in the ad photo also has a plate bolted over the exhaust ports for shipping. You can clearly see where the outer spark plug wiring harness has plug leads coming out to the plugs. They also show very clearly in the photo above.

Looking good. That Ice Blue pearl oughtta look great on a chopped '48. Love your accent color too. Somehow I've neglected this kit. Gots to get one now.

Looks good. I love those snap-kits for the basis of lots of different styles of '33-'34 Ford. Haven't seen one done like this before. Good idea.

Just counted. Close to 80, in various stages from gathering parts, notes, drawings, research pix etc., to a lot that are 1/2 finished, a few that are 3/4 finished, and one on the bench I'm trying to get done before I get into something else.

That's a natural assumption to make about an airplane engine. There were a FEW V-type air-cooled aircraft engines, but for the most part, all the air-cooled engines are either radials like this ...or flat engines like this (very similar in layout to old VW, Porsche and Corvair engines)

Here's a copy of an old ad for surplus military engines after WW II.

It was always water-cooled, even in aircraft. An engine is designed to be water-cooled from the start, and stays that way. Here's how it's plumbed in a P-40 Warhawk. The AMT Allison engine kit includes the entire ignition system, including the shrouds the plug wires run in (parts 36, 37, 38, 39) which attach to the distributor case, part 23. There should be wires running from the magneto, parts 21-22, to the distributor case. There would be a smallish ground wire running from the mag to a kill switch on your dashboard. These engines had electric starters, parts 15 and 16, and you should be able to find pix online of the wiring. It would be a 24-volt unit, so two 12 volt car batteries would be appropriate. For the AMT kit, the fuel pump is part 13. One fuel line would most likely run from your tank to one side of the pump, and another line up to the carb body part 20. I'm not familiar with this particular carb, so some online image searches should help you there. Do a google image search for "Allison 1710" or "Allison 1710 plumbing", etc. for whatever else you need to know. There are many slightly different versions of this engine, and you might like to do image searches for it installed in pulling tractors to get more ideas on plumbing as well. Good luck.

I like it. Looks like it otta be a '60s album cover.

True, and true.

Recycling at its finest.

You kinda tend to see exposed fasteners on cars that actually ARE fast, and that don't care too much about desperately trying to LOOK fast...

That would explain why references I've read about the kit describe it as a NOT-accurate representation of the TV car.

OK, here's something a contemporary hot-rodder could put together himself from an old '90s 240SX shell and junkyard goodies, plus some effort to develop the skills to make the body panels, flares and pull the whole concept together. This thing just screams "HOT ROD" to me. I'd sure as hell drive it. Definitely in the original hot-rod spirit of tossing the bits you don't need (like bumpers) and getting more of the bits that DO something...at the same time ditching the old-beater appearance and making the looks reflect the performance. Yes, I KNOW tuners already build 240s, and I KNOW this is a body kit, but the point IS...somebody COULD build something like this without buying the kit. It COULD be built cheap (as cheaply as a fast 50's hot rod was back in the '50s, adjusted for inflation). And a lot of it could be built from junk. It has camber that looks like it actually works correctly to make the car corner better, and isn't an ignorant fashion-statement. It looks fast. I like it. A lot.

LOVE IT !!

Actually, Allison engines were built as both RH and LH rotation, depending on the intended aircraft installation, and they were designed to be assembled to run either way (with only minor parts differences). The engines in a P-38 rotate in opposite directions, for example, and an installation in a "pusher" configuration (prop in rear) usually requires reverse-rotation. Here's two more street-driven examples...

Even on 1:1 cars, I'll often use a line of masking tape to protect a raised edge or sharp corner. If you tape really really carefully on a model, you can get right up close to something like a chrome spear. It also works well for me to fold the sandpaper to a sharp crease. Makes the edge stiffer, and allows you to get close in, again, to the raised detail...and see where you're sanding. You have to keep making a new "edge" though, because it will clog fairly quickly.