Ace-Garageguy

Honestly, it looks to me like you might be able to sand most (maybe all) of the divot down flat, then polish it as usual. You'll need to cut the divot flat, so you'll need to use a sanding block of some sort. I'd recommend hard rubber. Just sanding with no block, you'll ride over the divot without knocking it down, and there's also the likelihood you'll make a wave. Work carefully and don't get in a hurry...because you don't want to go all the way through the clear. If you DO, you'll have to reshoot the blue too, so stripping it would be best if that happens. Use plenty of water and squeegee it off frequently to see if it's flat. 4 coats of clear will most likely be enough to sand that out without even having to shoot more clear. Still, the worst case will be having to shoot the whole hood, which really isn't too bad. AND...the problem with trying to only airbrush the sanded area is that with 2K, you'll get a "blend edge" that won't polish out, because catalyzed clear doesn't re-wet like lacquer.

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"Solvent popping", by the way, looks like extra metallic particles, or sometimes light areas in the clear, particularly where it's heaviest. What it actually IS is thousands of tiny bubbles trapped in the clear, bubbles of solvent vapor that couldn't evaporate because too many coats were hammered on too fast with insufficient flash time, or in elevated temperature and humidity that made the material "kick" before solvent evaporation was complete. The bubbles will NOT sand out, and the only fix is to remove the entire coating and do it right. EDIT: I've been using "2K" products since they were first introduced to the automotive body repair and paint industry decades ago...on full-scale things and models. EDIT 2: Worst case of solvent-pop I ever had to deal with was on a Superformance Cobra repair I did for Chuck Gutke at Cobra Restorers. The temps were in the high 90s, as was the humidity for days on end. Every shop in town was shooting their paint late at night, because in many cases, even the slowest reducer and hardener wasn't enough to keep clearcoats from popping. I shot the car twice in the daytime, it popped horribly...and I had to sand it all off. I finally shot the thing at 04:00, and it was OK. I've pretty much seen it all. The chemistry and problems are identical.

The divot is a fisheye due to contamination. Could be a single piece of dust that has silicone residue on it, or even a piece of pollen. And it's nothing remotely like "solvent popping". But boy howdy...that clear sure looks like you hammered it on thick and fast...and that IS a good way to get solvent pop...which the divot is NOT.

Exactly.

I don't know what paint you used, but I can tell for sure it is way too hot to use on styrene model parts, particularly the soft junk they're using now. "Too hot" means the solvents are too aggressive, and will attack the plastic leading to the very obvious "crazing" you have here. Properly applied paint, even metallics shot "dry", isn't gritty looking like that (and clear will just make it look worse). Tamiya primer is simply not sufficiently solvent resistant to provide a barrier in a situation like this, so the paint solvent soaks through it and etches the underlying plastic...crazing...and accentuates mold-flow defects like your line in the process. To get an acceptable finish on that, all the crazing needs to be sanded out, the part needs to be re-primed with something that will provide a barrier, and you should really use a much less aggressive, less "hot" color. The hood below ghosted several times after I removed the peak and sanded out some divots, and shot it in hot Duplicolor primer. I fixed it by sanding, re-primering, sanding, re-primering, sanding, re-primering until I'd killed it. The final topcoat of hot Duplicolor looks like this. Note that it's not gritty or textured. One more thing...we constantly harp on the importance of TESTING the materials you want to use BEFORE committing to painting a model...and develop some understanding of various techniques. Painting models has become considerably more challenging of late, what with much less solvent-resistant styrene being used, so testing has become critical if you want results you can be proud of. You will also find things work much better if you stay within one product line (like Tamiya) that's made for models all the way through one job. Mixing and matching hardware store/big box store or automotive paints is a recipe for disaster until you really know what you're doing...and even then TEST FIRST is the golden rule.

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Like the man said, definitely impressive conversion work. I had to look up pix of a '60 to get an idea of how much you had to change. I'd imagine you'd sell a bunch if you decided to produce resin copies of all your modified parts.

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Very, very nice.

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Beautiful work, exceptionally clean, and very well photographed.

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