Ace-Garageguy

Diseases make life more interesting, and sometimes shorter.

In all honesty, I've never used 5-minute epoxy for modeling...and probably never will. I HAVE, however, used it on real-world projects, often enough to have found it to be so inconsistent in performance as to be useless as a long-term adhesive solution, and I only resort to it for temporary Q&D fixturing...essentially where I need a "third hand". In many cases, it's been possible to peel the stuff off with a fingernail, with about the fully-cured permanence of white PVA glue. I wouldn't trust it for anything critical, or anything I expected to last indefinitely. I have seen posts by modelers who've used it for top-chop and sectioning jobs, where the work has to be handled and stressed during subsequent bodywork, and who have been disappointed when the joints they've made with it failed under the bodywork they tried to do over it. Though these failures may have had more to do with factors other than the inadequacy of the 5-minute stuff itself, they're still a red flag to my way of thinking. In addition, the OP's question concerned bonding material he'd already identified as being difficult to bond, and in my real-world experience, I've found even some very expensive adhesives and procedures engineered specifically for "difficult-to-bond" materials to be marginal at best, so I couldn't in good conscience recommend a cheap consumer-grade product that has given me too many poor results on ordinary materials. But that's just an overcautious-old-fart talking.

Band of Brothers (the book) didn't live up to my expectations.

Having a run of bad luck with idiot sellers who can't seem to get to the PO for more than a week after the sale, or who don't keep their PO receipts until something is delivered, or who just don't seem to have a clue as to how the PO and tracking work, some who forget to issue promised refunds, and just now...the USPS site is down, so I can't get ANYTHING on several MIA shipments. I sure like doing other people's jobs, or having to follow-up to make sure THEY do them. EDIT: I don't CARE if something is late, or if the dog ate your car keys and you can't get to the PO in the blizzard/hurricane/mutant-alligator-attack/invasion-from-Uranus. It's OK. JUST SEND ME A MESSAGE. IT'S EASY.

Adults today often act more like spoiled children who stomp their feet and scream when something upsets them.

Predicted outcomes often have very little to do with reality.

"Try, try, try again; the boys who keep on trying will make the world's best men."

Day trips can be relaxing if you live within a couple hours of touristy or outdoorsy destinations.

Bingo. They don't even want you to have the option to buy a stripper "work" truck. Now why do y'all s'pose that is?

Not bad for doodles on notebook paper.

Good job. Nothing within the usual modeler's repertoire is going to stick to it then. Best figure out some way to pin the parts together, or find some other mechanical fastening method...small screws, etc.

Green and brown?

Not a "turbo". A small turbine engine. Different things. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/hrdp-0403-turbonique/

No surprise Hot Rod is going away. We have at least two generations who 1) have generally poor reading comprehension; 2) don't have much use for physical reality; 3) don't want to work on cars; 4) have few physical skills anyway; 5) don't even have much interest in driving; and 6) have little disposable income to support advertisers. When your target demographic is disappearing, you throttle back production.

Opinion polls are often skewed by the biases of the people taking them.

That would be either a polyester or an epoxy resin system, and neither will stick particularly well to "low surface energy" plastics like PE and PP without an adhesion promoter...if at all. There are options, but they aren't cheap or generally available to modelers. https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/755526O/innovations-in-bonding-to-low-surface-energy-white-paper.pdf The OP needs to do some experimenting on his own. As I said at the beginning, without knowing exactly what his particular problem-plastic is, speculation is a total waste of time.

Looks like Susan Wojcicki has a new career...

"Attention deficit disorder" gets blamed for a lot of things that are in reality the fact that some kids never get taught appropriate behavior and self discipline by parents.

"Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of Happiness" are rights that conflict with the desires of power-mongers everywhere.

Wife-units should be trained early on that they are not the center of the universe, nor are they the unquestioned rulers-of-the-roost.

Thanks. Box got full when I wasn't looking. Fixed it.

It doesn't work on everything PP or PE, again depending on the specific compound, but it can be a real bacon-saver these days when insurance companies are cutting every last nickel out of what they'll pay to repair older vehicles. We're often forced to use LKQ parts (like kind and quality...which is newspeak for "junkyard"), many of which are non-urethane, and most of which need some repairs to be presentable. It's a handy product to know about. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065456/ PS EDIT: If you like chemisery, this is an interesting rabbit-hole to go down... https://www.mdi.org/blog/post/what-is-the-difference-between-polyethylene-and-polypropylene/#:~:text=Polyethylene's monomer unit is ethylene,by polymerizing propylene monomer units.

To whom it may concern: just because a vehicle came with a feedback carb and ECM-controlled spark timing, it doesn't have to stay that way. Some jurisdictions, like any I'd ever inhabit, allow retrofitting non-compliant induction, exhaust, and ignition systems after a vehicle reaches a certain age. Both the EFI and ignition ECM in my '89 GMC truck failed. I replaced them with a 60-year-old Rochester 2GC and a stand-alone HEI distributor that uses advance weights and springs. It runs just fine, thanks...but anybody trying to work on it using a Haynes manual will be SOL.