Ace-Garageguy

If that doesn't work out, Boeing is hiring.

PRO TIP: Drilling out the studs would take too long. Mount a new tire and JB Weld the wheel back together.

Always use the correct tool, part deux (from TikTok)...

Day by day, my appeal to women seems to be waning.

Always use the correct tool...

Things that go bump in the night might eat your liver.

Car parts from "offshore" sources often don't fit or function like originals.

Reminds me of the old joke about the difference between (some) Porsche owners and porcupines. On another Porsche note...I've seen more 1972 911s that had their oil dry-sump tanks filled with gasoline than I could have believed possible in a "rational" world, with subsequent major engine damage. You may recall that '72 was the only year Porsche put the oil filler/dipstick on the RH quarter panel behind the door, which I particularly liked. It was WAY more convenient if you were dressed nice, and the forward location of the dry-sump tank marginally improved weight distribution...always a good thing on an early 911, Porsche moved it back to the engine bay for '73. POC and other club people insist it was moved back to comply with "safety" regs, and that the whole "filled the sump with gas" thing is a myth...probably because they don't want to acknowledge that a fellow Porsche owner could possibly be so stupid, or so not-paying-attention when the gas jockey was working his magic. But it's true kiddies. I've seen the ruined rod bearings. EDIT: I've seen a fair number of Oldsmobile diesels filled with gas too, but that's a whole 'nother story.

Probably read somewhere on the internet that it was OK. After all...Castrol was made from beans, so it's all the exact same thing, right? https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/castrol

The craftsmanship in this entire thread is mind-boggling, especially considering the small scale. Truly inspirational too. Thanks...

"CHICKS???!!!" she screamed hysterically, and then proceeded to angrily inform me that that term was no longer acceptable for referring to people of the female persuasion.

Part of my past professional life involved researching, preparing drawings, and writing patent applications without lawyers. For the very first one I did, which was successful, by the way, I used the book below as a guide. The info in it is all true and correct, and if nothing else, it's an excellent overview of the terms and processes and paperwork involved. If you're serious, it's easily worth the 40 bucks. https://store.nolo.com/products/patent-it-yourself-pat.html

Any solvent-glooed joint will take time to achieve full strength. The stuff "dries" by evaporation and migration of solvent into the surrounding material. Naturally, evaporation inside a glooed joint doesn't happen very quickly. Yup...but I'll usually use a heavier CA, like Loctite Ultra Gel Control, as it's gap-filling and can be sanded or filed to make nice fillets in small fiddly parts or roll-cage structures. You do need to watch piling on the paint though, as some solvent-based paints can weaken joints. It's also "rubber toughened" to resist impact or stress breakage after it hardens...which can take some time (full cure in 12-24 hours). EDIT: It's the only adhesive besides my expensive aircraft epoxy-based products that does a decent job sticking together aluminum and brass parts, but it's imperative to thoroughly sand any surface oxidation off of metals prior to bonding...and I don't mean a quick swipe with sandpaper. I mean thoroughly. By the time I was 12 or so, I'd realized that hurry-hurry-hurry was not the way to achieve anything approaching quality craftsmanship.

Hands grasping for unearned rewards are all too common.

Absolutely beautiful work. They come off like real bikes. I want...I want...

Beautiful model of a beautiful car. Most excellent.

Bonding acrylic successfully is a little different from bonding styrene, and the bond, in my experience, usually tales 24 hours to reach full strength. I recently had to develop a way to make some custom interior "chrome" trim parts for a full-scale project, and square acrylic rod was the material of choice in this case. The problem was attaching small mounting tabs for threaded fasteners to hold the trim parts in place, and I wanted to use 1/16" acrylic sheet-stock for the tabs, as space is at a premium in the application. A little research turned up several solvent-adhesives made specifically for bonding acrylics, like Weld-On 4 (liquid) and Weld-On 16 (tube gloo). The test bonds I made were quite weak initially, but after 24 hours, the plastic tabs broke when over-stressed, but the bonds did not. Problem solved.

Ship me the car and $350,000 in small bills, I'll make it brand new again, and even give the guy a full set of body molds so he can make parts if it's ever wrecked...or sell them to other owners. What a deal.

Liquid "solvent" cement is perfectly adequate for styrene, acrylic, and ABS, assuming you use the right one, and assuming it's used correctly. Solder is the hot setup for brass. Fabbing small parts from aluminum reauires a little more care and out-of-the-box thinking, because of aluminum's tendency to form an invisible layer of surface oxidation that interferes with adhesion of most gloo.

"Activity books" were popular for keeping bored back-seat kiddies quiet and non-destructively occupied and entertained on trips, prior to the widespread acceptance of the pocket-zombie-maker, AKA smartphone.

Events continue to unfold.

Cereal killers hunt the wiley oatmeal, wheaties, and trix in the wilds of the grocery emporium.

"Think carefully about the possible consequences before you do something" would save people from a whole lotta grief.