Ace-Garageguy

There's this one...

Probably why it's good...in my opinion...to err on the side of providing complete information, even at the risk of triggering the TLDR syndrome that's widespread today. And an industrial blasting cabinet using glass-bead media won't take off excessive material. Used right, it does a lovely job de-glossing "rubber" model vehicle tires.

What I meant was that, where ICBMs are available and are really pretty hard to defend against 100% effectively, as well as other delivery systems like terrain-following cruise missiles, etc., what real good is a big, fat target of a bomber that only flies 650 MPH against a technologically sophisticated adversary? I can see their potential (continued) usefulness for "carpet bombing" with conventional explosives against a variety of second-rate targets, but as a delivery system for nukes against a big grown up enemy that has things like advanced radar, high-altitude SAMs, and lotsa fighter-interceptors, not so much. I must be missing a part of the puzzle.

Definite visual similarity from that angle. Short, straight, low wings too. Speaking of A-10s...I really don't think anyone will ever develop a better, more capable, more survivable CAS aircraft. If I ran the USAF, I'd be looking to build more, rather than retiring the ones in service. Sure, it could benefit from a slew of upgrades, but all the known airframe fatigue issues have been effectively dealt with. When you've got the best platform going for a particular mission, why junk it just because it's "old"? I think a much more rational case could be made for retiring the B-52 fleet. Much as I love it, I have to wonder...does its mission even exist anymore?

Time to put a bounty on 'em, I guess. They really do make good stew.

This contact email was published on Facebook: larrygre@modelcarsmag.com https://m.facebook.com/ModelCarsMagazine/posts/10157064590436627/

Big department stores, even places like Walmart and Target, usually have pretty good nail polish selections within the cosmetics section...though higher-end ones are usually better, with more choices. Major chain drugstores are also good sources. There are "beauty supply" stores as well. I live in the suburbs not far from a fairly major city, and all these options are pretty close to me. Your mileage may vary.

It looks like a dark low-sheen charcoal metallic to me. SEM has a line of bumper coater aerosols in a variety of very fine metallic colors, formulated to restore real car bumpers. They work very well in the real world. https://www.cardetailsupplies.com/sem-original-bumper-coater/ https://semproducts.com/product/bumper-coatertm-aerosols#product-details

I missed this nine years ago. WAY cooler than cool.

Someone did a nice job restoring that truck. Yup. It's real pretty. I had a chance to buy a rough pair of COE tractors...Freightliners I think...back in the mid '80s, one barely running, one for parts...CHEAP. But my shop doors weren't tall enough to get 'em inside. Pretty sure they went for scrap not much later. Still makes me sad to think about them.

Whatever works and looks right. I ended up using a WWII US Navy aircraft color for some early 1960s Ferrari interior bits.

https://houseof1000kolors.com/products/kk18hok Rattlecans too: https://www.amazon.com/Kandy-House-Kolor-Aerosol-Kosmic/dp/B099W1QH99 The bugger about candy is that if your overlap technique isn't perfect, you WILL get streaks and uneven color. It's a little easier on model cars, as the fan pattern from the spray nozzle covers a proportionately much larger area than on a real car, but I've seen some awful streaky messes on models anyway. Candies also get darker, more intense, the more coats you shoot...so be aware that if you use real candy, some careful experimentation, and sprayout cards with info recorded, is absolutely necessary to get the effect you want (the last candy we had in the shop to repair took our very experienced painter 2 days of doing sprayout cards with varying bases and numbers of coats, to get a match). Picking a nail polish pink pearl you like, and then burying it in multiple coats of clear, would probably be your best bet. Nail colors are available with very fine pearl flake, so unless you want the bass-boat effect, that's the way I'd most likely go...though noblng's idea of pearl in clear over a pink base has real merit too.

Another happy birthday wish from me. Live long and prosper.

By the time I was involved with racing, the sanctioning body I most interacted with (SCCA) had pretty stringent construction and inspection rules for rollover structures. But I HAVE seen a roll cage fail spectacularly when thinwall tube was used to "save weight", with only the area where the "testament hole" was drilled being of the required wall thickness. What continues to amaze me, however, is that there's no shortage of ham-handed bubble-gum-welding "fabricators" still in the hot-rod biz. Some of the stuff that comes into our place, supposedly built by "experts", is beyond scary...and much of it we flatly turn away if the owner refuses to have us do mods to correct the garbage work. Sadly, the uninitiated often think we're just trying to gouge them, believing that because they "paid good money" to have the work done initially, it was done right.

Skepticism is good, especially on the internet, but I rarely present information as "fact" without having thoroughly researched it myself, and being able to back it up...which is why I posted a link to a set of photos of the engine from various angles, clearly showing the supercharger housing, your "circle thing at the front with all the bolts in it". Great additional shot of the dragster you found, too. EDIT: The induction system is the pipes just visible under the heads on your great side shot. The manifold runs under the engine from the supercharger, and splits into individual runners feeding each cylinder.

Multiple thumbs-up.

Ambitious and interesting project, definitely worth the effort. Good luck to you, sir.

Most prescription, vitamin, other pill bottles, and many soda and water bottles are PETE...polyethylene terephthalate...another plastic very different from polystyrene, and that also has a surface that paints don't like to stick to (as Dave G. noticed). I have and still do recommend using primered soda bottles for practice spray painting. For finding the sweet-spot between dry-spray or excessive orange peel and running the paint off on the ground, they're a great alternative to model car bodies. And because they're similar in size to model cars, they make it possible to develop good overlap technique, to avoid streaks and blotchiness in metallics. HOWEVER...they will tell you little about paint compatibility, as the relatively poor adhesion of primers can lead to squirming, cracking, and wrinkling when topcoated, again similar to the OP's example. EDIT: Highly aggressive "self etching" automotive primers (that would pretty much ruin a styrene kit body) might be useful for preparing soda bottles for painting practice, but I haven't tested them for that application.

Your best bet is probably automotive interior dye. I've used the SEM products over here successfully, even dying AMT black vinyl model-T tires a very convincing and permanent dirty white, like early tires pre-carbon-black. It dries non-glossy, non-sticky, and doesn't flake off if flexed.

LMGTFY Hmmmmm...There doesn't seem to be any shortage of images and other info. https://www.justtrucks.com.au/trucks-for-sale/1973-international-transtar-4070-8v71/JTW3234877 Or videos. This is also apparently an 8V71-powered CO 4070

I occasionally find myself wondering exactly which half is the Canadian half... Of course, the Canadian half is Scots and English, so I guess it's sorta moot.

In that vein, here's something a lot of modelers don't seem to be aware of. Besides the "styrene" your spoons are possibly made of being very different (again, possibly) from the kit "styrene", they may not even be polystyrene at all. A lot of plastic spoons are made from polypropylene, which can react very differently to solvents. Adhesion can be an issue with polypropylene, and adhesion promoters are often required to get paint to stick to it in the real world. https://www.smsdistributors.com/products/sem-plastic-adhesion-promoter What this means to the modeler is that, simply because of its surface properties that manifest as solvent resistance, some primers may not stick, and when hit with topcoats, everything can squirm and crack just like the OP's example. Again, this is part of the reason I continually harp on the idea of testing on the plastic the particular model you're working on is made of. And remember that not every issue of the same kit is necessarily made of the same "styrene" blend.

TRUTH

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