Ace-Garageguy

Play-played golf a little when I was working in South Carolina and had access to the course my employer used, even bought a set of left-handed clubs, but haven't done any flogging since then.

I bought it from a private party, not FPP, and I have no idea how long he had it. It's typical FPP, good quality, symmetrical and well proportioned main castings, somewhat thick. Butter-colored resin, fully cured and consistently hard. Good quality if delicate detail castings, and one thing I appreciate particularly is the separate cam covers. Makes it much easier to do an appropriate finish on them than if they're molded with the head. Instructions are typical, basic FPP one-sheet exploded drawing, and a good build will require referring to real-car photos to fully understand parts placement and orientation. Kit includes a fret of jewel-like PE parts, a few loose metal parts, well-registered decals for numbers, instruments, and emblems, and of course, a set of Pinto's beautiful hand-laced wire wheels, already mounted with cast hard black resin treaded tires. Should build up to a museum-quality piece with care and patience, with plenty of opportunity for super-detailing for those so inclined. Full build writeup here: https://mb2501.proboards.com/thread/9081/1956-bugatti-251

Clementine marmalade is something you don't see very often, but it's easy to make.

PM'd

"Founder" is also a verb we don't see that often, meaning to fill with water and sink, like a ship or boat, or to run into serious difficulty or come to grief, as in "Silicon Valley Bank is foundering".

Photos?

Done there, been that, got the cement overcoat.

Office workers' answers often border on the delusional when asked to self-report on their productivity.

I'm in for the ride. This is one of my favorite drag cars of all time...but I've never had any luck finding a decent diecast to start with. One I bought recently is so poorly scaled and misshapen, it would almost be easier to start with a block of wood. Do you have any idea who made the model you pulled your clone from? There is a 3D-printed '49 kit that showed up on eBay recently, for about $150 shipped... https://www.ebay.com/itm/225465186890

Practises make perfectes...assuming you have some natural gift to start with; a clumsy hippo will never be a prima ballerina no matter how hard she works.

Furniture be hanged, value in future will be assigned to posts based on their relative content of overblown jargon-rich business-speak gobbledygook gibberish, with extra points assigned for incomprehensibility.

2K clear is usually urethane of some sort, and if mixed correctly and fully cured, should be impervious to 70% alcohol cleaning. But as always, TEST it on a place that won't show, or that can be easily polished back up in case there's a negative reaction.

"Common Core" didn't work out so well, and is in large part the reason Johnny can't read and comprehend or add or subtract or multiply or reason or really do much of anything useful to a potential employer. https://www.educationnext.org/common-core-has-not-worked-forum-decade-on-has-common-core-failed/

AND...frankly, I don't like the Testors PVA glue. I've used this stuff since 2012, and it's never let me down.

I just looked more on eBay, and it seems there are a lot of companies selling pin-vise sets with bits these days. I haven't used any of them, so I can't recommend any, but they're worth looking into. My own pin vises are ancient double-end high-quality jobs made in the US many years ago, and most of my bits are in little steel drill-index boxes, also US made. SOMETIMES you get lucky with the Chinese-made stuff, the steel is good, quality is good, and they last well. Sometimes you don't, with soft steel in the bits, lousy points, soft aluminum handles that strip out easily, etc. As with ALL tools, you don't always get what you pay for, but you will almost always pay for what you get.

Flexibility is something I always seek in a woman.

A set looks like this, and this one's only a few bucks. EDIT: You're really better off buying more expensive ones, US-made if you can get them, or at least some brand name. I've bought cheap sets that wouldn't even drill plastic. The bits for plug wires most often used will be around .012" to .016". Get a cheap digital caliper too, so you can measure the wire you're using. https://www.ebay.com/itm/403307428251?hash=item5de6fef99b:g:VZgAAOSwtIBhmPLV&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4JcYWe3SvPl2GeWCb%2FCHOICcrXGLYstJb7BdOqp3TW1xlNTDrgNMbbNfaNWQYb%2BPuHWZ5co31%2Fep%2F0Qs3ZuF%2F8M7Ca2R7uGEewstV%2BHfUTznFldMxyKi6kJU620nNs3OpE3xIxpitEeKppxegf40RvKJn8Q8fSTD4jk4WKLe%2BpU50GfyTOQEcfGGlnEN2l9sdHl0H6tKgX5bl7eW7VowFli1De5EhbKCiyLROc%2BCUY8ryCy5ORsEB8Rgq0mkKMmZ8vVTZCln3ZLVWCxW6P9pO%2B9sFWSbax8HmF9GZQh9dXdd|tkp%3ABk9SR_j_2vjfYQ

Get a set. I'll look at mine and see what the sizes are. They're cheap.

No pin vise I've ever seen comes with drill bits. You buy the bits separately.

Overtime has to be managed carefully by the employee, making sure it includes meal breaks, snack breaks, coffee breaks, bathroom breaks, hydration breaks, stretching breaks, phone breaks, social-media breaks, and smoke/vape breaks...ensuring you get paid at least 3 hours for 10 minutes of actual work.

These PVA glues all dry by evaporation, so where air can't get to them, like if they're trapped between parts that fit tight, drying will take longer. Sometimes much longer.

500 zeros still add up to nothing.

Original thought, competence, rationality, and questioning authority MUST BE STAMPED OUT !!!

I'm really looking forward to hearing it start the first time.