Ace-Garageguy

One Q&D solution to that is to cut a double-ended pin vise in half, chuck your bit in the pin vise, then chuck the pin vise in the drill.

Most definitely liking where that ground-scraping mockup seems to be headed. Low is good.

Faraday was definitely in at the beginning of electric motor concept development, but early motors relied on commutators and brushes to transmit current to the armature, to produce magnetic fields in it. Many motors are still made with brushes and commutators; the small DC units that power slot-cars and model trains are good examples. Tesla's unique contribution was his realization that he could induce magnetic fields within the armature with no electrical connections to it...hence the name, "induction" motor.

Seems like there used to be one on every other block in Britain...

Or dinner...

One more time...have you tried to contact Rep Min? His kit used to sell for about $35, you supply the donor guts from any Bug kit.

Good to know. My feral cats aren't doing such a great job anymore.

Yeah, and a jar of mayonnaise that cost $.79 twenty years ago costs 5 bucks now.

There's also a vintage Revell kit. This one's pricey, but stuff shows up all the time. https://www.ebay.com/itm/203708077406?hash=item2f6df2955e:g:bn4AAOSwYVRhkiR2 Have you tried to contact Replicas and Miniatures? He's still in business, though he's had some down-time recently due to illness. Still, it's worth the effort and the wait, as his parts are about the best in the biz. ReplMinCOMD@AOL.com

I started putting a SB Chebby and a big ZF 6-speed in one eons ago. Easiest way is to remove the forward legs of the X, cut the transverse side members free from the chassis rails and shorten them enough to allow the rear legs of the X to spread enough to clear the gearbox, then make a simple support for the trans under it. Then you can piece the front legs of the X back in if you want to. Presto-chango.

THANKS !!

There never has been a website for Replicas and Miniatures. Email is listed in the thread if you read it, and that's been the only way to contact them since forever.

The resin kit might still be available though. Have you looked?

Yes, rectangular tubing would be considerably preferable to using an old, light, un-boxed frame. Though both the frames in the Revell '28 kits kinda represent boxed units due to molding limitations, the skinnier model A frame is just too light IMHO, and modifying the other one, the '32 frame, will take a lot of work to make it fit well. And...modifying that original X-member is FAR less work than building a frame up from scratch, and it has the added benefit of being the right shape to start with.

Those are for real cars...

"My main question is…is there any preference for using the stock frame vs swapping it for one from the Revell ‘29 model A?" In reality what you propose would never even be considered. The wheelbase of the earlier frame is much shorter (106" for a '32...the wheelbase on the Revell '29 chassis too...vs. 112" for the '35-'40-'41) and it's designed for a much lighter vehicle. '35-'40 Ford car and '35-'41 pickup chassis are all pretty much identical, so not too terribly hard to find. I'd recommend you build it like you'd do a real one...modify the '37 frame as required to accept the later go-parts.

Great color for it. Nice hood/radiator shell fit too. For whatever reason, people rarely get that right.

Bingo. Sounds like a recipe for fisheyes.

Always love a Topolino. Standout job on the dual-mag wiring, the scale-appearing blower drive belt, and the front suspension springs too.

I've been thinking along the same lines, as I bought a partially assembled one some time back that ended up being much more of a glooey mess than it appeared in photos. I believe that would be a great way to proceed. The working features could be retained.

Looks great. One thing that stands out to me is the realistic appearance of the panel lines. Did you do anything special to achieve that look?

Yup. That's a problem...but I have one B&W photo of an S6B just after a flight with soot from the exhaust all down the side and paint peeling and blistered from the heat. Not color, but I'll probably just shoot it something like this (supposedly) actual color pic from 1927 of the S5...but with soot and blistering. Close enough for me. EDIT: Though some sources I've read claim it was a robin's egg or baby blue, more like the Spitfire prototype. Who knows?

Mmmmmm...heaven.