Ace-Garageguy

There's also a vintage Revell kit. This one's pricey, but stuff shows up all the time. https://www.ebay.com/itm/203708077406?hash=item2f6df2955e:g:bn4AAOSwYVRhkiR2 Have you tried to contact Replicas and Miniatures? He's still in business, though he's had some down-time recently due to illness. Still, it's worth the effort and the wait, as his parts are about the best in the biz. ReplMinCOMD@AOL.com

I started putting a SB Chebby and a big ZF 6-speed in one eons ago. Easiest way is to remove the forward legs of the X, cut the transverse side members free from the chassis rails and shorten them enough to allow the rear legs of the X to spread enough to clear the gearbox, then make a simple support for the trans under it. Then you can piece the front legs of the X back in if you want to. Presto-chango.

THANKS !!

There never has been a website for Replicas and Miniatures. Email is listed in the thread if you read it, and that's been the only way to contact them since forever.

The resin kit might still be available though. Have you looked?

Yes, rectangular tubing would be considerably preferable to using an old, light, un-boxed frame. Though both the frames in the Revell '28 kits kinda represent boxed units due to molding limitations, the skinnier model A frame is just too light IMHO, and modifying the other one, the '32 frame, will take a lot of work to make it fit well. And...modifying that original X-member is FAR less work than building a frame up from scratch, and it has the added benefit of being the right shape to start with.

Those are for real cars...

"My main question is…is there any preference for using the stock frame vs swapping it for one from the Revell ‘29 model A?" In reality what you propose would never even be considered. The wheelbase of the earlier frame is much shorter (106" for a '32...the wheelbase on the Revell '29 chassis too...vs. 112" for the '35-'40-'41) and it's designed for a much lighter vehicle. '35-'40 Ford car and '35-'41 pickup chassis are all pretty much identical, so not too terribly hard to find. I'd recommend you build it like you'd do a real one...modify the '37 frame as required to accept the later go-parts.

Great color for it. Nice hood/radiator shell fit too. For whatever reason, people rarely get that right.

Bingo. Sounds like a recipe for fisheyes.

Always love a Topolino. Standout job on the dual-mag wiring, the scale-appearing blower drive belt, and the front suspension springs too.

I've been thinking along the same lines, as I bought a partially assembled one some time back that ended up being much more of a glooey mess than it appeared in photos. I believe that would be a great way to proceed. The working features could be retained.

Looks great. One thing that stands out to me is the realistic appearance of the panel lines. Did you do anything special to achieve that look?

Yup. That's a problem...but I have one B&W photo of an S6B just after a flight with soot from the exhaust all down the side and paint peeling and blistered from the heat. Not color, but I'll probably just shoot it something like this (supposedly) actual color pic from 1927 of the S5...but with soot and blistering. Close enough for me. EDIT: Though some sources I've read claim it was a robin's egg or baby blue, more like the Spitfire prototype. Who knows?

Mmmmmm...heaven.

They're still popular, and there's a fair sized community of enthusiasts. Lotsa parts and accessories still available, and even some stuff newly manufactured. I first saw one advertised in a 1959 (I think) Model Railroader, had no earthly idea what it was or what you did with it. Over the next few years I read articles in the mag about guys scratch-building spectacular jewel-like locomotives and began to get a yen for one. Quit model trains, then hobby modeling altogether at around 18. Fast forward to about 2015, after I'd learned to use real machine tools and got back into modeling...one day I just decided it was time.

Irreplaceable, custom-made just for you. Take good care of 'em. There's not another set just like that anywhere in the universe.

This guy is one of the best teachers of basic science I've ever seen.

Another big batch of primary-source reference material from the early 1930s, for the Supermarine S6B. Items below are just a very small sample.

It'd be nice if an Oz-based model company would start up. Those upside-down guys have a lot of really interesting cars.

Just be aware the QC in those kits is a fairly rare bird in a hot-rod on the street, and the two-piece construction, molded in halves as shown, makes it harder to paint the axle housings, which are generally steel parts on a period-car. Instruction page from those kits shown below. Photo immediately below shows a typical QC like you'd most likely find under a period, or light, hot rod. Steel axle housings / bells, that get painted. Big photo below shows a contemporary racing QC similar to what's shown in the kit instructions above. Cast-alloy axle bells, steel shaft housings.

Not hard to do, yourself, and if done correctly it's legal in all 50 states. https://store.nolo.com/products/quick-and-legal-will-book-quic.html You also really need to make a "when I die" file... https://time.com/5640494/why-you-need-to-make-a-when-i-die-file-before-its-too-late/

Everything looks right. Very nice, and kudos for putting forth the effort to make a model correctly represent functional reality.