Ace-Garageguy

Good luck. There were bazillions of small DC motor designs made. At first glance, it looks like a Pittman or Tenshodo or Mashima "open frame" piece, but not exactly. And there were countless no-name Japanese sorta copies of Pittmans as well. A lot of those were built like little tanks, and should respond to some tlc, to run like new (though the permag motors may require remagnitization of the field magnets). That one, in the first photo, is missing the armature shaft bushing on that end...quite possibly all that's wrong with it. EDIT: After looking at the dimensions you posted again, I see it's considerably bigger than the HO stuff I'm familiar with.

Beautiful piece of work.

PM'd

Here's a real one (not what you asked for, I know, but just trying to point you in a possible direction for a model source): B48 CATALINA HOOD SCOOP 57 58 59 60 1961 1962 1963 64 65 PONTIAC SUPER DUTY https://www.ebay.com/itm/125013575153?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338722076&toolid=10001

MORE INFO...I've found several listings for this scoop called variously Pontiac, Catalina, and super duty. I'd look at some '60s Poncho kits.

This was on eBay listed as "vintage Ford super duty or Pontiac"...but the listing is gone.

Musta been from something, 'cause here's one on a '56 Chebby:

WOW.

Indeed.

Yeah, looks great. Guess I'll be stealing that little trick.

Y'all should add this to your sky-is-falling worry list. You just never know...

Water jackets were (and still are) filled with "concrete" or other materials (like Devcon epoxy filled with aluminum powder) primarily in an effort to reinforce engine blocks, particularly cylinders, from distorting and cracking while containing vastly more horsepower than they were designed to handle. People tried all kinds of odd stuff, like polyester resin, grout, etc. In the mid '80s, a material called HardBlok came out. It's still used.

We're not talking about the same thing. The fuel feed line from the tank to the pump is dark gray, and there is a black line from the pump up to the injection barrel valve. There is also a black return line running from the pump to the tank...but the line I was referring to ain't fuel. Look closely and you'll see a silver line running from the front of the block under the front of the head, just forward of the headers, from what looks like a red-painted 90deg. fitting screwed into the block...probably at a freeze-plug location. The silver line makes a 90deg. turn into the front of the intake manifold, where there's a coolant passage on a Chevy smallblock. At the 90deg., it also appears to possibly T into a line that continues on to a mystery object under the blower-drive gear housing. I said the whole mess appears to be a crossover line with a fill cap on it...what I'm assuming might be the mystery object...between the water jackets on the block. And I never said the car ran a water pump.

Period.

It's a little harder to get a pilot's license than it is for a chimp to get a license to drive a car. But whatever.

Somewhat unlikely, what with redundancy in the propulsion system, a "fail soft" mode in the software that lands the thing gently in the event the operator releases the control stick (as in heart-attack), and a ballistic parachute that deploys in the event of catastrophic failure (ala Cirrus).

Very nicely done.

Lotsa people, me included, also have multiple vehicles for different things...like motorcycles and very small sports cars. Far as flight-time goes, it's about 20 minutes, with a top speed of around 100 MPH. Useful for some things, not everything. But I'm already thinking down the road about a hybrid micro-turbine-electric power system, like Jaguar used on its C-X75. Plenty of lift and range possible for two occupants, with power for AC, etc., and turbines can run on carbon-neutral bio fuel too. Ya gottsta admit, this little aircraft would look right at home in the garage next to this...

Ya never know. Once I get the machine shop set up again out West, anything's possible.

Interesting statement when, according to the Fed, 85% of vehicles on the road at any given time only have one occupant. But here's some good news...you don't have to buy one.

ADDITIONAL INFO: DeTomaso used a relatively simple adaptor to mate the Ford 351C to the big ZF 5-speed in the Pantera, from the factory, in a mid-engine configuration. The Ford flywheel, starter, and pressure plate were retained, requiring only a clutch disc of the correct diameter, but with splines compatible with the ZF input shaft. A hydraulic clutch slave cylinder was employed to actuate an arm that slid the release bearing along a tube at the front of the gearbox...all very old-school, and reliable. The RBT 6-speed version of the gearbox appears in the Revell kit below, and in reality, it's beefy enough to mount suspension pickup points and inboard brakes on the case...thus making a real-world setup like you want very plausible. The ZF gearbox below is shown with the Pantera adaptor and side covers.

In most cases, it's the former...simply accurate measurements and machining. I've built a few. Often, the adapter itself can be machined from a simple flat plate of aluminum. A custom input-shaft bushing is made up to mate the gearbox nose to the crank end, the existing flywheel is drilled to accommodate a different clutch cover if required, and clutch-release geometry and linkage issues are resolved. Sometimes, however, a complex bellhousing fabrication or custom casting is required, along with a specially made flywheel and associated components to mate parts from different vehicles. It just depends on the particular application. This one is somewhere between the two extremes: adaptor for a Yotota 2JZ to a BMW ZF/GETRAG 5/6 speed gearbox, using a flat-plate adaptor and a custom flywheel: This adapter mates a 303-394 Olds to several GM manual gearboxes, and uses a custom, cast bellhousing (which a competent foundry could make for reasonable money if only one was required):

Study the panel labeled CHRYSLER ENGINE DETAIL ASSEMBLY, in the FIAT ALTERED COUPE instructions appearing in the right upper quadrant of the AMT double-dragster instruction sheet depicted below. Note part #24:

Very clean, one of the best builds of this kit I've seen. I always rather liked the real one in spite of some of Mr. Barris' excesses. I recall following the build in one of the major mags when I was a little younger. Nice work.

The car in the photo below appears to have a water line coming from the front of the block, to what appears to be a small fill/expansion tank under the blower drive gear housing (and presumably a similar line going to the other side of the block). There is also what appears to be a coolant drain fitting low on this side of the block.