Ace-Garageguy

I understand your point of view, and I agree for the most part; I'd never dream of doing something like that to a clean or decent restorable example. HOWEVER...there are surely examples of this vehicle out there that are beyond any hope of economically feasible restoration to stock condition. I would consider such cars as candidates for heavy modification, rather than simply sending them to the crusher. For instance, we currently have in the shop a Jag MkII that is just too far gone to be cost-effective to restore it. BUT, there's plenty there to make a Jag-based hot rod. NOT a rat, but an upgraded high-performance car that LOOKS like a Jag MkII...and goes, stops and handles like a Corvette C5.

The Heller version is a completely different kit, no common tooling with the Atlantis / SMER / Merit kits.

This would be great fun with modern suspension, brakes, an LS (or modern 4 or 6 cylinder high-output engine) set back behind the front axle centerline, and about 250 pounds taken out up high. Tuck wide rubber under the fenders to keep the stocker look, and muffle it down to a whisper.

Not according to their own website, which I looked at prior to posting. https://plastruct.com/product-category/tubing-fittings/styrene-round-tubing/

https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-606225753-cano-rigido-plastico-20mm-34-emi-x-metro-_JM

https://www.sinclair-rush.co.uk/category/217/hard-plastic-round-tubes

Hmmmm...I have a couple cars stored in a small inland town that's much flooded. Haven't been able to get a phone call through to the management yet. May be under water. Bugger.

Intended to be more "sport wagon" than "sedan delivery", with Hellcat power it could get a pizza to you pretty quickly.

Real. Click on the link at the top of the first post to go to the site of the company that builds it. Or watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUbV1CEDr8g

http://bilenkin-vintage.ru/en/

White PVA "canopy" glue, etc. It disappears, dries completely clear, is water soluble when wet. Elmer's, Micro Kristal Klear, etc. The edge of the 'glass' will need to be trimmed very carefully where the mold-tabs are attached, and polished to look good. The trough in the windshield frame may benefit from being painted or Sharpied black, too. Unfortunately, the trough shows through the windshield after assembly, so body-color may look carpy. A very fine bead in the trough the 'glass' mounts in, press the glass in place, tape it lightly in position in front. Clean the squeeze-out off the back with wet Q-tips. Actually, just a drop in each corner would be enough to keep it in place...but you might see a slight trace of it if you don't go all the way around. Kinda not a great design. Mounting the glass from the rear would have been vastly preferable. If you've got the skills, removing almost all of the ledge the glass sits on is going to give the best, cleanest look.

Thank you sir. I saw the top one previously, and as I still have a functioning paid P-bucket account, I'm hesitant to use either of the new extensions for fear of scrambling my existing images. P-bucket will doubtless plug this hole as soon as their IT people figure out how, and the plug could conceivably foul everybody who's used the "fix", even working paid accounts like mine.

Seems like NOW would be the time for all the folks who said they'd collaborate on getting Harry's threads put back together to get on the stick. Does anybody know if the images you all say are now visible can be copied to hard drive without distortion? PS. The Chrome link above just goes to the Chrome webstore.

And these days, it'll probably be her wife or girlfriend.

Внедорожная семья

In general you do NOT want to mess with the mix ratios of anything other than polyester...which this is not... and even then, we're talking about 1 percent + or - or so. Six things are the most likely culprits when 2-component resin materials fail to cure properly. 1) Improper mix ratio 2) Incomplete mixing 3) Old material 4) Contamination. This can be moisture, or from mixing materials in waxed-paper cups, a greasy mixing stick, incompatible release agents, etc. 5) Section of casting too thin to cure fully. Some resins need to generate a little heat to kick off (exothermic reaction), and thin parts sometimes just don't go. 6) Low temperature. Most of these materials will work fine down to about 60F. Your temperature and humidity are about perfect for working with this kind of stuff. It may seem like overkill, but I ALWAYS mix everything (other than polyester) on a gram scale...and I never have curing problems if I do everything right. NOTE: SOME resin products don't like SOME mold materials and SOME release agents, and incomplete cures can result. ALWAYS READ THE TECH MATERIAL FOR THE PRODUCTS YOU"RE USING TO DETERMINE COMPATIBILITY

Nice kit, well engineered, though the front suspension is a little light to support the weight without the wire axle. BUT...almost all the accommodation for the axle on the engine is a slot in the separate oil pan. Fill a very small indentation in the block, swap pans, and you're done. I'm reasonably sure the front end WILL support the weight of the model without the wire initially, and I'm also reasonably sure it will sag over time. I have some very small real carbon-fiber strip I'll add to the control arms that will cure the problem without being visible. The slot in the frame rails (for the wire axle) will have to be filled to satisfy me, but that's an easy task too. The trans does appear more AOD than C6 (as J.G. noted above) but the starter is in the correct higher location for a C6 supplied for the FE bolt pattern. There are some online photos of the AOD incorrectly identified as C6, so that may be where that particular misstep crept in. Fine kit though, well worth the $25 full retail price.

See my response above. Something else to keep in mind is that the glass mounts to the front, outside, of the windshield frame...so when it's in place, the overhang is far less noticeable or objectionable than in the photo of the kit in primer.

Picked one up today at HobbyTown (along with the Foose Ford pickup), where I usually buy current-production kits. The prices are competitive with mailorder plus shipping, and since they are the only nearby place that maintains stock of the supplies I need, I don't mind paying full retail to help keep them in business. Buying supplies and materials online can easily cost double what I pay at HobbyTown, so it works for me. Anyway, it is a very nice kit. No warp, no problems of any kind, roof fits perfectly...(though the intake manifold looks narrow for a big-block Chebby). In answer to one of the above questions, there IS sufficient meat to lightly shave the nose of the roof to get a more flush fit with the windscreen, but be advised there is a recess the windshield frame fits into, so moving the roof rearward will cause you more fit problems than you will want to...or need to...deal with. Shaving the front will be relatively easy. Moving the roof rearward...not recommended. There is a small lip on the leading edge of the roof that will need to be added back with styrene strip if you shave it, but that's VASTLY easier than dealing with reworking the recess for the frame, as mentioned above. The front suspension is plenty stout to support the car without the wire axle initially, so I fail to see what all the hoopla about that accomplishes. Revell may know that the relatively soft styrene the kit is made from MAY sag over time, and the wire axles may simply be there for insurance. If the wire axle in front bugs you, just omit it, and put a block under the car to support it on the shelf between underside viewings. Easily worth the $25, and I'll fo' sho' be gettin' mo'.

At least until you can't smell the enamel, probably 2 weeks minimum. This is one of the times a "spoon test" WILL give you useful information.

Лучше, чем австралийский «автопоезд». Мы используем настоящий поезд.

Only way I could afford it. The last couple keepers cleaned me out.

I hope Corpus Christi doesn't get washed away. I kinda like it there.

Just be sure to call her "sir".