Monty

Looks like yours turned out very nicely, Jürgen. Were you surprised to find it didn't have an engine? I was.

Kudos on a great build overall, but especially on your color selection and application. It'd be hard not to like the shades you picked for the interior, but when matched up with that Mazda paint on the body, it really comes together nicely. More please.

From what I've read, acrylics can cause problems by drying on the tip of the needle, impairing the airbrush's ability to spray smoothly. Check the business end of the needle first.

Quite a bit of time went by before you replied to that post. I was starting to wonder if you'd figured out a way to do it! Wouldn't surprise me at this point.

There's just something special about poppin' open a JoHan box and bringing the kit to life with meticulous building skills and accurate paints. Great job on this!

Ludwig, this kit was issued by AMT in the mid-1970s. IIRC, they issued two annual updates after the initial version ('75). The updates were fairly easy to do since the changes were comprised mostly of slight modifications to the styling of their respective grilles. Some of AMT's kits back then were kind of crude and occasionally required better than average skill to make them turn out nicely, which is why I'd say anyone who can take a mediocre kit like this and make it turn out as well as it did deserves our accolades, and Yuri never disappoints.

Me again. Those brake lines will probably look OK as you've got them set up, but not everybody will be convinced that they're meant to represent tubing. I'd suggest you get busy this afternoon and get them drilled out all the way through.

Interesting. Looks exactly like the resin engine I mentioned in Post #6, offered by some other guys in Michigan. http://www.motorcityresincasters.com/motors.htm Makes me wonder what original kit engine these guys based their castings on.

Since no one has addressed my question at the bottom of post #6, would you mind sharing your opinion on the engine in the old '73 Warren Tope Trans Am - series Mustang or any of it's subsequent releases. The original box specified that it was a 351C, and as I told the OP, it could probably be made streetable with a different air cleaner and exhaust manifolds.

Nope! It uses the little flanged pegs that go through the wheelbacks.

Wow, very nice work on this one, Ludwig. Quick question: How did you separate the headlight from the bezel? It makes the car look much more authentic than leaving it the way JoHan intended,

What engines are in the '65 Galaxie and '68 Shelby?

Anyone familiar with this kit? Any reason this kit's engine wouldn't work for Brandon. I don't think these are terribly expensive either...

Joe, at the risk of being a huge buttinski, I agree with Fred on this. Since you've gone to the trouble of adding so much incredible detail to various other areas of the build, would it really take a whole lot of effort to correct this one? Just a thought...

I don't believe that's correct. IIRC, the engines are a 428 and a 429, neither of which is correct for a '73 Cougar. They were carried over from previous MPC Cougar kits. Type Size Horsepower Years ohv V-8 351 240/285* 1971 ohv V-8 429 370* 1971 ohv V-8 351 168/262/266** 1972 ohv V-8 351 168/264** 1973 Here's a resin source for a 351C: http://www.motorcityresincasters.com/motors.htm The old AMT Warren Tope '73 Mustang race car has a 351C. I think the kit's been reissued as something else in the last couple years. (Kit historians, please chime in) From what I recall, you can't build the kit stock but you could probably make the engine streetable, if not 100% stock, with a regular or open element air cleaner and some exhaust manifolds.

I had a thread about this last fall but we never really came up with an answer. A couple different businesses insinuated that they had it in stock at a reasonable price, but when a few of our members placed orders, the stores ended up canceling them. If I can't get it in the US, will a Canadian hobby store ship it to me?

Tommy, I hope you won't mind a friendly nudge, but you need to reverse your valve covers. The four bolts go on the outside edge. Body paint looks great. Which Tamiya silver did you end up using?

I'd forgotten about Citadel! A couple years ago, Bob Downie did a build-up of a new-ish Mustang and painted part of the dash with a bright silver Citadel paint. Perfect coverage and not a single brushstoke anywhere.

It's hard not to like an early C3 in a deep, glossy black like that. Any engine and chassis pics we can see?

Jim, as one of the resident 'Vette nuts on the board, I like a lot of what I'm seeing in this build. That said, I may have missed a post or something, but where did the idea for red spindles come from? Looking forward to seeing this completed soon.

Everybody loves Raymond...and his Loewy riders. I figured someone like you would also be an Avanti freak.

I guess you learn something new every day (hopefully). I've been building for over 40 years and I'd never seen that wire trick before. It looks like a low expense, medium effort upgrade with a great payoff in appearance, so I'll join Rob in asking you to give us a step-by-step on this.

When the idea for this project first came to be, I was intrigued by the myriad possibilities that could result from a group of talented builders lending their respective skills to a given section of the kit. I guess I'm operating under the assumption that each member of the build is only supposed to have the kit for a specified amount of time before passing it on to the next member, as per the usual group build rules. After all the effort that's gone into the previous sections, I'm just hoping this doesn't "snowball".

I normally paint model bodies in lacquers or enamels, but I wanted to know how well MM acrylics work as brushable detailing paints because I like doing engine bay detailing and I need paints that cover well without multiple layers but which can be easily fixed (washed off) in case of error. The first time I tried detailing with acrylics, I used Tamiya paints. We can probably all agree that they airbrush well, but brush painting is an exercise in futility. So, if I've got a cluster of wires & vacuum lines on a firewall, are MM acrylics a good choice for coverage & correctability? I find it's better to solicit multiple opinions than to just jump in blindly, spend a bunch of money, and end up disappointed. Pics of your work would be appreciated.