Monty

Ludwig, thanks for the info. I wanted to verify because I found several pictures on Google that confirm that TS-86 is indeed Pure Red, as you said. On their reference chart, however, they call TS-86 Brilliant Red. Either way, after seeing how it looks on your 'Bird, I'll definitely be getting some of this for future projects.

What? Someone built a '68-'69 GTO that wasn't Orbit Orange? Honestly, I love these cars in that color, but it's nice to see one done in other colors every once in a while. I'm glad you were able to do justice to that old build-up, Ron. I'm sure I'm not the only one who'd like to see that engine if you get a chance.

I'd been kind of following along in your WIP thread, and I could tell this was going to be fantastic when finished. Great job! Quick question: what is the Tamiya part number for "pure red"? I know they have about 5 non-metallic reds, but I didn't see one by that name. Thanks for any info you can provide.

Tommy, kudos for doing such a great job on this 'Cuda. I'm glad you decided not to use a clear coat because your build looks more like a 1:1 car of an era when the auto companies were using single-stage enamels. The shine is beautiful, which is a testament to the paint as well as your ability to apply it correctly. In addition, you chose a great color. Unlike classic Corvettes, we rarely see 'Cudas like this in red, so it's a nice change from Sub Lime, Plum Crazy or Moulin Rouge. You mentioned some wiring etc. Would it be possible to see some engine and chassis pics?

Putting the "die" in diecast.

I remember talking to the German foreign exchange student in high school and being astounded by the time, effort and expense required to get a license there, especially when compared to the cakewalk setup we have here. I'd love to see your disabler in place in cars, but I fear the self-important, must-be-connected-at-all-times crowd would get out the pitchforks and torches and hunt you down (assuming they could look up from their screens long enough to follow you)

Over the last few years, I've purchased a number of tires and sidewall decals from him, and I've pestered him with all kinds of questions. Each sale went through quickly and every question was answered within a day. He's a long-term board member here with an excellent reputation, and I'd assume any delay in his response probably has something to do with the Easter holiday.

Ron, you're a fairly experienced builder so I'm curious if this commentary was solely the result of your attempts to match the resin front end with the kit body, or did the resin caster include some helpful instructions? ...and while there has to be an adjustment of the fender (thinning out the underside of the upper fender edge on each side, due to the realignment of the headlamp buckets, and cleaning up the flash from the kit body) the part fit was pretty good, and vastly improved the looks of the model... Having seen your past work, I can't wait to see how this 'Stang turns out.

I thought that was what happened to the original AMT '69 Mustang. Converted to a '70, then the body was used for the Mach Won kit.

I'll be very interested to learn what you think of this thing.

All I can say is I wish AMT had put as much effort into this Riviera as you did. That interior is remarkable! And yes, these cars seem to look their best when painted gold. Don't know why - they just do.

Love the new "accessories". It's amazing to think that that slightly dirty quart of oil started out as a chunk of aluminum. If you continue to make miniature works of art like this, they may start to draw more attention than the Seven. If I can (somewhat inaccurately) paraphrase a line from a classic movie: if you billet, they will come.

It's been a few weeks since we were told about this kit. If you've purchased one and received it, please tell us what you think of the workmanship etc. Any downsides to it? All things considered, was it worth buying? Pics of anything you've done with yours would be appreciated.

Many kits offer some kind of open element air cleaner, which is what I'll be using in most cases, so I don't need to source one of those. I was hoping someone on here had figured out a formula for obtaining that purplish-red color.

I'm curious about something. On a 100% styrene build like this, what is the advantage of using a CA over, say, a reputable thin hobby glue (Tamiya etc)?

Our resident airbrush guru seems to think the Badger Anthem 155 is a great 'brush. It's a dual action gun that uses one needle instead of making you switch between three. I'd recommend you read his notes on all the airbrushes on this site https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/ because there may be other choices involved, such as gravity feed vs siphon feed etc. You're also going to want a compressor with a PSI gauge and a water trap. As far as paints go, I've airbrushed lacquers and acrylics, but I still prefer Testors/Model Master & Humbrol enamels reduced with lacquer thinner. Can you post any pics of models you've painted with creamcoat? Sounds interesting.

I stand corrected. Kinda hard to argue with that. I was hoping for better since I'm sure there are several people on here who could use wheels like these. I wonder if the appearance of "bumpiness" could be diminished if the spokes were painted metallic grey. (thin paint, airbrushed) Just a thought...

Lost Vega? (Put Nevada plates on it)

I think I see what you mean, but I wonder if that has more to do with a photography issue since the spokes on the lower half of the wheel seem to be smoother than the upper ones. (Click on pic in OP link to expand it) Camera guys?

I came across these while searching for something else, but they seem to be extremely well done wheels and I figured this would benefit some of you guys on here. http://web.ipmsusa3.org/content/60-spoke-wire-wheels They're a little pricey, but expand the pictures & check out how intricate they are. Disclaimer: These are the only automotive parts offered by this caster, who seems to deal mostly with military products. I've never dealt with him, so do your usual due diligence before making a purchase.

I'm the furthest thing from an authority on drag cars but I thought most funny cars of the '70s had fiberglass bodies, so I'm puzzled by the rust. Nevertheless, here are a few suggestions. Since a rusty-bodied car with anything less than a Hemi would be unlikely to win its class: Rust Never Sweeps Given your determination to make something out of this kit: Rustoration Cheesy pun-related name based on body style Kammback Kid Seen somewhere in the real world: Vegadeath

Beautiful work on those two, Ron. Love the color choices, too. You nailed the Marina Blue, and the red looks like Marlboro Maroon, which was also a '67 color. Couple questions for ya: 1) Do you have the Testors part number for Model Master Dark Red Metallic Enamel? 2) What's the secret to making the stinger stripe work with the crossed flags on the nose?

I've been using these in my cars for years, so I would like to replicate the color etc in model form. What specific paints and techniques do you recommend? Any close-up pics of your work would be appreciated.

I don't think Round2 will be tooling up anything new anytime soon. (Correct me if I'm wrong here) If I understood their original plan, they were going to keep releasing old kits till they had enough money to take on new projects, but they still have the problem of finding something new to offer that would guarantee strong sales. The margins for error are pretty slim in the auto model world these days, and the majority of popular subjects has almost been exhausted, so... If I had to bet, I'd say they'll just continue cranking out old releases from all the molds they've acquired. Maybe Moebius could take this on.

The '70 has always been my favorite too, but I don't think Revell is ever going to get around to making one, and who knows if Round2 still has the molds to MPC's '70 Charger. Unless you can find a remarkable steal on ebay, you'll probably have to go through the resin guys. Here's what i was able to find. Modelhaus offers this: 1970 Dodge Charger RT Price : $67.00 Includes two door hardtop body with open hood, hood, interior tub with separate bucket seats and console, dash, steering wheel, front bumper and grille, black grille insert, rear bumper, taillights, taillight bezel, hubcaps, gas cap, glass. Use 70 Coronet Super Bee kit or 69 GTX kit to finish Time Machine Resin offers this: 1970 Dodge Charger RT This kit includes the body, hood, grill, front and rear bumpers, interior bucket, correct high back bucket seats, dash and rear tail light bezel. Use any AMT 1969 Charger kit to finish. $40.00 The Modelhaus kit will probably have plated bumpers and may ship more quickly. The TMR kit's pictures show unplated bumpers, and the site tells you to allow about seven weeks for delivery. HTH