Monty

I know they used to offer one. It was based on the original AMT '68 Shelby tooling and still had two recessed areas for the separate clear-red tail lights. I was going to suggest this piece to another member as an upgrade for the kit he's refurbishing, but I don't see it listed in their online catalog. They do, however, still list the tail lights. If they don't offer it anymore, are there any other casters who do?

If the paint has actually crazed the plastic, it's going to take more than stripping the paint to salvage the project. I'll let the styrene experts tell you how to address that, but I'm curious what you meant by a "redo". Are there sentimental reasons making you want to redo this particular kit? Would you be averse to obtaining a more current release of this kit for parts if needed? (The front bumper looks a little abraded). This kit can turn out very nicely for its age, provided that the builder uses good reference materials (printed Google pics of professional restorations & Shelby club meets etc) Couple other ideas that may improve your build: 1) Since you'll be getting rid of the paint, your silver trim will go with it. If you haven't tried Bare Metal Foil, this car would be a decent one to learn on. 2) If you need help finding a non-crazing paint, we've got all kinds of opinions here. I'll be interested to see what all you do with this.

I'm not necessarily looking for an answer to this question (unless you actually happen to know it) but I wonder why Tamiya chose the creamier white to be "Racing White".

Perhaps you meant TR7 Oh wait, you said faster. Never mind.

I see that Tamiya has two gloss white spray lacquers: TS7 is listed as Racing White while TS26 is simply listed as White. I assume there's a discernible difference. I'd love to see pics of both if you have them.

Welcome to our board, John! Looks like you've done an outstanding job on that old Ford. The build quality is more than evident and the paint scheme you chose really sets off the lines of the car. Any chance we could have a few more pictures? Close-ups of the interior, engine and chassis would be nice.

One of my all-time favorite race cars. When they first came out, I was astounded by the design and the audacity (6 wheels!) While this will always be my favorite livery, I can't wait to see how yours turns out. Looks like you've got a great start already.

Since most washer fluid bottles are a semi-translucent white, you'll probably want to start with a flat paint. I've also seen Richard's technique (post #2) done with acrylic candy blue airbrushed on first, followed by a mist coat of flat white.

Go to Wal-Mart and grab a pack of white plastic spoons. You can test paint/primer combinations far more cheaply that way.

Joe, I generally start off each engine wiring project by Googling pictures of the cylinder heads that will be used on the model's engine. Looks like you've got a 409, so we'll use this as a reference. Use the Google pic as a guide for drilling the spark plug holes. If memory serves, a =# 74 bit should work here. If you drill the holes deep into the head, it'll allow you to take up a little slack, if necessary. I secure my plug wires in the distributor, then route them to the plug holes. Don't make them too tight; leave enough length for the "sag" others have mentioned. Once you're happy with the length, you can glue them in. When you're ready to step up another level, you can route the wires according to the car's firing order. Also, some of the better model plug wire kits come with 1 size larger hollow tubing that can be used at both ends of the plug wire, kinda like these.

I saw someone post some Pegasus tires, so I assume these'll be OK. They're probably the best Radial T/As you'll ever come across and they're made by our own Chief Joseph. The tire depicted is cast in white resin and painted. Sand the tops of the letters off and voila! They're available in a number of sizes and 2 compounds. He's also got some white outline tires that are perfect for mid-'80s cars (Monte Carlo SS etc). Find these tires, wheels and more here http://www.fireballmodels.info/

I agree! I'll take mine in black.

I wonder what engines AMT, MPC & Revellogram put into their respective post-'77 Broncos. Wiki claims the 351M & 351W were options along the way. If memory serves a 351M should be close in appearance to a 351C.

If I understand what you're saying, the fact that you're seeing graininess after burnishing tells me the area being foiled probably has an uneven texture on the surface (overspray, orange peel etc). BMF is thin enough that these things will show through, so any trim like drip rails, window surrounds etc that you're going to cover should be sanded smooth with a light-grade polishing cloth before applying the foil. I doubt this applies to your situation, but I've also seen modelers really mangle BMF around vent windows because they get in a hurry trying to cover all the surfaces. Some looked like they tried to chrome a miniature accordion.

I believe it is. I, ummm, stole the pic off some Eastern European site

Doesn't sound stupid at all. 40-some years ago I had the GMC version of this kit and, although I'm glad to see this one out again, I'd feel the same way as you if they'd repopped the Jimmy. I'm also glad someone has been digging through the old AMT molds 'cuz up until a couple years ago I thought I'd never get another chance to build the Freightliner cabover I'd had in my youth. I wouldn't/couldn't pay what the ebay scalpers wanted, so I figured I'd learn to live without it. When they came out again at a realistic price, I made sure I grabbed two. Kinda strange what memories we attach to these things.

I swear I learn something new here every day. I knew you'd used something other than white model paint. That interior looks awesome. Thanks!

I'm not convinced TS-9 is gonna do it for you. Here's a Jag w/ TS-9 over a light primer Tamiya non-metallics seem to be fairly opaque, so I'm not sure if even using a black primer with TS-9 would get you the shade of green on that Mustang. Testors Fathom Green (GM color) would be a lot closer.

I had you figured for more of an analog guy & this looks digital. Is there a lefthanded version for those of us who build Japanese kits?

Jon, if you're interested, I'm sure there are quite a few people on here who can tell you how to set up a paintbooth ventilation system so you don't have to limit yourself to acrylics (NTTAWWT ) or painting outside.

I gave Revell kudos for tooling up some nice suspension & engine pieces, but when the ejector pin marks start looking like stray bullet holes, marring otherwise nicely done pieces, it's hard to maintain enthusiasm. Did you happen to get one without pock marks? I wonder if all 1/25 / 1/24 E-type kits assemble the same way. From the ones I've seen built, It seems to take more experience or talent than I've got to merge the upper and lower halves seamlessly.

I've always wondered this - how do you burnish matte aluminum while retaining the "matte' aspect. Seems like it would end up shinier than most would want. I was going to try and replicate the inset part of this tailgate, but thought I'd ask first.

Thanks, Casey! I had no idea.

Love this picture! Looks like it was taken at speed. Pardon my ignorance, but I don't know much about rod kits. Are the wheels and tires on this build from the same kit?