Monty

Designed, built and owned by Ann N. Cepahlic. That fustercluck of a hoodscoop is evidence of the lack of thought that went into the rest of the car. The owner should be sentenced to 10 years of Pavement Purgatory (a decade in a Prius).

There are a number of people on here who love their Paasche H airbrushes precisely because they make body painting easier. OTOH, learning to use a dual action 'brush isn't terribly difficult and, IMNSHO, they're more versatile, especially when you've got one like the Badger Anthem which can spray various types of paint without having to change needles & heads. We have a member here who has tested & reviewed quite a few of the more popular 'brushes. Might want to check it out: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/ As far as paints go, our members seem to spray everything. Some decant lacquer (Dupli-Color, Tamiya etc), some like acrylics and some of us die-hards shoot enamel reduced with lacquer thinner. If you want to see some techniques that'll shorten your body-painting learning curve, get this: http://oldmansmodels.com/catalog/i13.html

It still has a better chance of having fewer body issues than the Mustang LX. Too soon?

I'll be curious to see how the MCM review handles the body issues. Has Revell responded to any of the postings on FB?

Some of the kits AMT released during the '60s had numerous custom options, including rectangular Cibie headlights very similar to the ones shown. We'll have to hope some of the better kit historians see this so they can tell you which ones. In the meantime, you may also want to look at some of Revell's custom vans from the '70s. Seems like some of them had custom grilles and headlights too.

I don't necessarily have a dog in this fight because I've never liked the LX (coupe) versions & won't be buying any, but I can centainly understand why Bradley and others would be upset by the shortened roofline. I was one of those people who bought the early '69 ProModeler Charger with the botched top & I recall wondering which overpaid "suit" greenlighted that? Probably the same guy who later rubber-stamped the AAR 'Cuda catastrophe and the tools for this LX. When it's a kit of a car you're passionate about, things like this matter. With all the tools available to model mfrs these days, errors like this should be a thing of the past. I don't have Facebook so I'd appreciate it if someone would report Revell's responses to the posts people have submitted.

The kit you started with wasn't exactly AMT's best effort engineering-wise, so you are to be commended for making this build turn out so nicely. Suddenly it's the '70s all over again!

When craftsmanship and artistry combine... Impressive work!

I'm starting to see more builders use beading wire and other materials to incorporate "real" hard lines into their chassis detailing & I'd like to find out what all you're using and how you're anchoring the lines to the chassis. For example, I've got a number of MPC Corvettes which already have these lines molded in. I'd prefer to use them as guides for running real hard lines (brakes & fuel) but I'm not sure how to get rid of the molded in lines from a textured surface. TIA for all helpful replies, pics and advice.

Nicely planned and executed. Good job, Brian!

Can't think of anything to say that wouldn't get me banned, so....

Anybody know the story on this one?

I'm trying to get an order in here, but I see two listings for Chevrolet Shadow Gray, P/N 446 & P/N 594. Anybody know the difference?

If the government ever revives the Cash for Clunkers program, they'll end up charging him for the effort required to tear this Bondo-barge down. I'm still curious how he passed the vision portion of his driver's exam.

Wow, I want to load up on this sale and get some of the factory colors I've been needing, but I'm a little concerned about the note that pretty much says they need to be used in conjunction with a respirator. I'm guessing it's because the enamels are reduced with lacquer. I don't have a respirator and I doubt it'd do much good since my beard would probably keep it from sealing properly. Suggestions? (Other than trimming the beard)

Brett, do you have an authoritative link on this? I used to have about 10 years worth of various Mustang magazines around here from when I owned my '73, and none ever mentioned this combination. Not being argumentative, just curious.

I'm curious where you're getting your information. The '64 1/2 Mustang engine would've had a black block, gold valve covers and a gold air cleaner. '66 is the first year for blue Ford V8s and the Ford experts I've read say the paint formula varied slightly over the years. Some people here say they've never seen a Ford engine in any of the darker blues, but that's what I grew up working on. In fact, Testors original #2727 Ford blue (released in the early '80s) is this shade. Somewhere along the line they changed the description to Ford/GM Engine Blue, a lighter shade. If you're doing replica stock for a '64 1/2 - '65 'Stang, my 1st paragraph still stands. If not, get the Model Master #2727.

Just for the record, the car depicted and the model being built are '67 442s.

Yeah, yeah, another impeccably painted tri-five with well-chosen colors from Dave. Whatever...

Looks like I get another chance to learn something new. I've always assumed that Humbrol made their own paint a la Testors (again, I assume). If they don't, who makes it for them? Yeah, it looks like it'd be tough to get anything out of Europe, but one of Jonathan's links is for a place in Australia that apparently will ship solvent-based paints here. Shipping will be around $16.00 - not that much more than the $12.00 shipping that goes with most ebay kit buys.

Sharp work, Steve! Can we see some engine, interior and chassis shots?

Do you guys think one of those liquid mask solutions would cover the letters adequately if I applied it with a toothpick & let it dry before airbrushing the panel?

Do MM acrylics brush nicely? I only ask because trying to brush-paint withTamiya acrylics frustrated me beyond belief. I was used to the way enamels could be "worked" with a paintbrush, but Tamiya paints seemed like a one-stroke-and-done proposition.