Fat Brian

I'm very surprised by how quickly these kits fall together. I'm getting the 30 primered so it will be ready soon.

I would love some smaller diesels, 4-71, 4-53, 6v-71 in NA and turbo versions, and a 4bt as well.

You're model T looks very similar you one I finished a few months back. Mine has a Rajo ohv conversion and a Chicago auxiliary transmission.

Bookending with Bernard my first build of 2023 is the Revell 29 roadster in east coast TROG style. It's the 29 roadster body on the 32 rails from the kit and the 32 grille from the 30 5 window kit. The engine is made up of various Revell flathead parts, it's a later block with the removable bell housing and a LaSalle transmission. I put a 50s style post mounted distributor on it with heads and intake from the recent 37/38 pickup. The exhaust is made from 1.5mm stainless steel tubing. I removed the rumble seat and hinged it like a trunk where I put the battery and fuel tank along with some tarps and a tool kit. I removed the pleated sections of the interior panels to give it a stripped down look and used the bomber seats from the 30 kit. I converted the rear end back to a transverse leaf spring and banjo axle from the 37 pickup and swapped the finned drums for late 30s Ford units and wide 5 wheels that I widened in the rear. The decals are from various kits and hint at a driver who was filling his post war adrenaline needs. This was a super fun build that feel together very quickly once I found the direction it wanted to go. This is the most extensive weathering I've ever done and I know it's not great but hopefully I can build on this experience.

Yep, I figured it could pull double for early monster trucks and heavy equipment.

That's exactly why I asked Scott to do it, there wasn't a good early transfer out there.

Now we're talking, now I have to track down another plaskit hood.

I've done it both ways. The biggest issue I've found with foil under clear is the potential for the clear to yellow over time and make your foil look weird.

Yep, extending Chevy beds is fun because you have to add to both ends. Fortunately the Revell bed is multiple pieces so it shouldn't be too bad. The MPC bed is one piece so when I made the master for the MAD bed cleaning up the inside was a pain.

The MAD bed won't work on the Revell plow truck, they're different scales and the bed is too small.

In the early 2000s these billboards for a questionable bottled water showed up all over my area. It turned out to be an ad ran by a billboard marketing firm.

You might be able to find just the wrecker body on ebay and use it with the kitvyou have. I also agree it might be easier for you to find an Italeri kit since they typically are more common in the European market.

I agree with that. The final steps of a model are some of the most finicky but also the most visible parts of the build. Decals, foil, attaching clear parts and exterior details, weathering, all of this can't even start until most of the parts are together and it's obvious if you rush it. This is something I'm still working on, I get in a rush to finish stuff and end up making mistakes in the home stretch.

Major progress on the 29 this weekend. I'm not good at weathering but I'm satisfied with this. I'm giving up the number 707 and switching to 424. I went with a military theme, maybe a former pilot or tank commander getting his adrenaline running with fast cars after the war.

You should be able to put some thinner on a q-tip and wipe the old paint off or get a jug of Castrol Super Clean from the parts house and put a bit in a small bowl with a seal-able lid.

Great, thank you.

The rear suspension looks pretty basic, it's only three parts. This is the only pic I could find if how it's supposed to look.

Yep, you need better paint and better brushes. The best black paint, and some of the best paint in general, is Mr Color. You want the lacquer, it dries super fast and you can handle it without it turning gummy like Testors. Some money spent on good quality brushes is important too. Different shapes do different things so a selection of flats and rounds with square tips and pointed tips and other things give you options when hand painting.

If this passes the "less than 25% complete" threshold I'll enter this, it's not a Mustang but is still in the blue oval camp. It's a 61 Falcon I'm building as a track day car.

I have no idea, I figured if I put something out there we might get more info.

There is a 72 Chevy truck out now in 2 versions and both have a long bed. There is the Coke version and the Racers Wedge version which has an optional rear body but also the stock long bed. There is also a 72 Jimmy kit out now you could get your grille from.

Don't forget the Moebius cammer from the 65 Comet drag version. That's probably the best overall kit version. That being said, the 3d version above looks like the definitive version if you're buying one now.

There's only one tooling for a kit. It can have inserts for other versions or certain areas can be gated off or opened up depending on how the tool is made. The body is a separate tool because it needs to be run on a different style of machine that can produce more complex shapes. The clear parts and tires are also separate tools, that's how Salvinos can have Monogram NASCAR tools but have to retool all the windows and tires.

Ok, that's what I wanted to know, thank you.

I need a rear window for the early Falcon body. The easiest way to get one is to buy a warped promo and use the clear parts from it. But, do the clear parts eventually warp too or is the clear plastic different from what the body is made of?