Fat Brian

I wanted the more modern front and rear so I watched the Italeri version until I found one at a price I could tolerate, I know I paid at least $60 pre-covid. I agree that the wheels are trash but they were getting replaced anyway so it didn't matter to me. I haven't started it yet but there aren't any obvious issues with it beyond the wheels, it looks like what you'd expect from an Italeri kit. If you want an early one or don't really care don't pass up the Revell 1/25 version. It has an engine but will need the wheels and tires replaced. You can typically find them pretty cheap too. There's even a rally version that some very 80s rear window slats.

Typically trucks with very long chassis use one or more carrier bearings along the frame to support the driveshaft.

I totally agree with this. Acrylic gloss clear so the decals don't silver around the edge then I hit them with Mr Super Clear matte spray to kill the glossyness. I left these glossy because I was going for the fresh armor all look but did do the clear undercoat.

The Revell 69 Daytona is the best wing car kit out there. You'll need to do some work to get it into full race dress but it's probably the best start you'll get. A 1/25 stock car kit will need to give up its roll cage and other race goodies. This might take some some testing to find a kit with a cage close enough to the Daytona.

True, this does depend on your personal level of hairyness.

I've found Tamiya tape to be too sticky as well. I've switched to others painters take that's a bit less tacky. You can also try sticking the Tamiya tape to the inside of your forearm before using it on the model, this reduces the stickiness a bit.

I agree that 1/72 scale aircraft are difficult to work with. Especially if you don't have an airbrush it can be nearly impossible to get an in scale looking paint job.

I noticed that too when I used one. I ended up sanding the oil pan mounting surface flat and cutting the bellhousing mounting flange off since I was using a different transmission. But, none of that should be necessary on a new kit.

I have measurements and close up pics of an NA 4-53 I took a few months back.

I'm very surprised by how quickly these kits fall together. I'm getting the 30 primered so it will be ready soon.

I would love some smaller diesels, 4-71, 4-53, 6v-71 in NA and turbo versions, and a 4bt as well.

You're model T looks very similar you one I finished a few months back. Mine has a Rajo ohv conversion and a Chicago auxiliary transmission.

Bookending with Bernard my first build of 2023 is the Revell 29 roadster in east coast TROG style. It's the 29 roadster body on the 32 rails from the kit and the 32 grille from the 30 5 window kit. The engine is made up of various Revell flathead parts, it's a later block with the removable bell housing and a LaSalle transmission. I put a 50s style post mounted distributor on it with heads and intake from the recent 37/38 pickup. The exhaust is made from 1.5mm stainless steel tubing. I removed the rumble seat and hinged it like a trunk where I put the battery and fuel tank along with some tarps and a tool kit. I removed the pleated sections of the interior panels to give it a stripped down look and used the bomber seats from the 30 kit. I converted the rear end back to a transverse leaf spring and banjo axle from the 37 pickup and swapped the finned drums for late 30s Ford units and wide 5 wheels that I widened in the rear. The decals are from various kits and hint at a driver who was filling his post war adrenaline needs. This was a super fun build that feel together very quickly once I found the direction it wanted to go. This is the most extensive weathering I've ever done and I know it's not great but hopefully I can build on this experience.

Yep, I figured it could pull double for early monster trucks and heavy equipment.

That's exactly why I asked Scott to do it, there wasn't a good early transfer out there.

Now we're talking, now I have to track down another plaskit hood.

I've done it both ways. The biggest issue I've found with foil under clear is the potential for the clear to yellow over time and make your foil look weird.

Yep, extending Chevy beds is fun because you have to add to both ends. Fortunately the Revell bed is multiple pieces so it shouldn't be too bad. The MPC bed is one piece so when I made the master for the MAD bed cleaning up the inside was a pain.

The MAD bed won't work on the Revell plow truck, they're different scales and the bed is too small.

In the early 2000s these billboards for a questionable bottled water showed up all over my area. It turned out to be an ad ran by a billboard marketing firm.

You might be able to find just the wrecker body on ebay and use it with the kitvyou have. I also agree it might be easier for you to find an Italeri kit since they typically are more common in the European market.

I agree with that. The final steps of a model are some of the most finicky but also the most visible parts of the build. Decals, foil, attaching clear parts and exterior details, weathering, all of this can't even start until most of the parts are together and it's obvious if you rush it. This is something I'm still working on, I get in a rush to finish stuff and end up making mistakes in the home stretch.

Major progress on the 29 this weekend. I'm not good at weathering but I'm satisfied with this. I'm giving up the number 707 and switching to 424. I went with a military theme, maybe a former pilot or tank commander getting his adrenaline running with fast cars after the war.

You should be able to put some thinner on a q-tip and wipe the old paint off or get a jug of Castrol Super Clean from the parts house and put a bit in a small bowl with a seal-able lid.

Great, thank you.