Fat Brian

Very nice, this is what we need.

I bought these off Shapeways a while back, it's two sets of high pinion Dana 44s. You just provide a 3.5mm tube the width you need then slide the differential on and add the ends.

Yep, I've noticed they're runnier too. I've been spraying from further back so the paint goes on a little drier but the surface is a little pebbly, fine for flats but less than ideal for shiny stuff.

Ok, the best planetary hubs in a kit are from the Lindberg Raminator. They're excellent for monster trucks or heavy equipment. The chrome inserts for the USA-1 wheels are 19.2mm or so in diameter. If you get the Raminator kit you could make insert discs from Evergreen and add the planetary ends and lug nuts or cut the end of a rim out and use the kit lug nuts. The axles in the kit also have good Rockwell steering knuckles.

So it's supposed to be a Chevy engine?

Let me take some measurements and see if I can come up with something.

The easiest way to get a planetary style hub for the AMT monster truck wheels would be to make an insert for the USA-1 wheels that replaces the stock chrome part. I hate that when they made the Monster Jam kits they made that part so out of scale.

It's entirely possible it's a combination of parts that wouldn't actually fit together. I see the Y-block in the valve covers but the heads are definitely something else and the oil filter placement is more FE than anything.

They should be ready for primer, they don't have mold release on them since there's no mold. If you ever get printed parts that are a bit sticky soak them in 91% alcohol.

That looks like some version of the AMT MEL motor. A Y-block has exhaust ports spaced like a small block Chevy.

These are great, my goodness. How are you going to offer them?

Your best bet might be to make little carb spacers.

I like B better personally, they're a little less busy and the meatier tire is better.

That looks very similar to a bumper that that you probably can't get from Olsen anymore.

I'd be all over that second one, especially with its companion rear bumper.

If you look toward the middle right of this picture you'll see two stacks of clear drawers. I get them from the walmart website, they come as either one or two stacks of three but can be combined. The stacks in the pic are 9 drawers tall and on the included casters so I can roll them around if need be. All my leftover stuff from finished kits or kit bashes ends up in there along with aftermarket parts.

Thank you. It looks like I might need to track down 1/18 scale tires to get a bit more size.

Personally, I would love a crackerbox GMC that's nice and crisp. The AITM one just didn't quite do it for me.

Yeah, it's beyond time that some of these things are available in a printed option.

I need to know the diameter of the tires in Tamiya F1 kits. I'm looking for tires that are 30-35 millimeters tall, maybe a tad more in the rear.

I hope it shows you what you need.

Give this video a shot, it has the same engine as the kit you're building.

I wanted the more modern front and rear so I watched the Italeri version until I found one at a price I could tolerate, I know I paid at least $60 pre-covid. I agree that the wheels are trash but they were getting replaced anyway so it didn't matter to me. I haven't started it yet but there aren't any obvious issues with it beyond the wheels, it looks like what you'd expect from an Italeri kit. If you want an early one or don't really care don't pass up the Revell 1/25 version. It has an engine but will need the wheels and tires replaced. You can typically find them pretty cheap too. There's even a rally version that some very 80s rear window slats.

Typically trucks with very long chassis use one or more carrier bearings along the frame to support the driveshaft.

I totally agree with this. Acrylic gloss clear so the decals don't silver around the edge then I hit them with Mr Super Clear matte spray to kill the glossyness. I left these glossy because I was going for the fresh armor all look but did do the clear undercoat.