Fat Brian

Very cool, that's such a classic look.

So the MRC wheel sets were reboxed Aoshima wheels? I always wanted a big and little set with the good Goodyear tires because the Wide Ovals were so square.

That's more what I do, I try to get most of shine from clear coat. Honestly, if I can get a good coat of clear I don't even polish it, I've got better things to do with my time than risk ruining a good enough paint job.

The heavy, wet, close up coat is doing it. The paint has to travel through the air a bit to dry it out enough not to run. Shooting too close can let bubbles to make it to the body. Try keeping the same distance for your wet coat as your mist coats and keep it a bit less wet. Ideally you only want it damp enough so that when you go from the side to the top or top to the side the indirect spray will blend in.

I wonder if the Aoshima Cragars are the old MRC set? If so it'll be good you have those back. I'm interested in the Hasegawa Beetle too.

You can also track down the Big AL Thunderbird, it has the same engine as the kits above. Then there's the MPC Ghost of America. This engine is a bit different than the AMT version but still serviceable.

Always test your clear over a scrap decal. I ruined an almost finished build be clearing over decals with an incompatible clear, it just beaded up on the decals and ran off them. The same can of clear laid down fine over modern Revell decals so I thought I was safe.

I usually keep two or three kits going at one time so I can keep working while paint or glue is drying. Be careful though, I got in a bad habit of working on a ton of kits but never finishing anything. Now when I go back to that work it's usually not up to my current standards so I either have to start over or buy another kit. Now when I start a kit I try to make sure I finish it and not stick it back on the shelf.

I swear by Duplicolor white primer. It's not hot and can be removed with Super Clean so you can paint whatever on top of it and strip it easily. You still need to be careful with the paint even with primer, use thin coats so the paint can gas out before it etches the body.

It works over everything I've tried it over, Tamiya, Duplicolor, Testors, doesn't seem to matter.

The Revell Cobra kit is the only game in town for that generation of Mustang. You might be able to find the regular GT engine in the Revell 97-98 convertible kit. The 99 SVT kit was just put out at Ollie's so the market should be flooded with them soon.

Get some Mr Super Clear Gloss. It seems almost impervious to humidity and dries with a rock hard gloss.

I used to worry about the wheels rolling but as others said, once I started using a lot of aftermarket wheels it's just not worth the effort. These days I don't actively stop the wheels from rolling their going to but I also don't put any work into making them roll and will solid mount them without a second thought. The only reason I even slightly care if the wheels turn is that some hollow tires flat spot and the sidewall deforms if you can't redistribute the weight every once in a while.

I'm not Steve but the working theory is that the mirrory finish from molotow looks like a reaction between two chemicals that repel each other. It's like the shiny floats to the surface after it comes off the tip of the pen. We believe that one of those chemicals evaporates out of the pen after a while leaving the ink a dull silver color. This doesn't happen to the refill bottles, I've had mine for three or four years and it looks as good as the first time I used it. The stacks, valve cover, and header on this were all brush painted from that refill bottle recently.

I got the cab in the mail today. I hope your address is the same, forgot to ask.

It's so weird because it's literally the same mold, the only difference is the plastic and how it was treated during the manufacturing process.

For some reason a lot of AMT semi kits from that time are built without decals. This kit, the red 359 and 359 wrecker, the Transtar II, and Diamond Reo all don't have decals on the box art build.

Yep, that's what's in mine.

That's actually a totally different kit, it's amazing to me we ended up with at least four kits of this era Datsun pickup. Your kit is an old Revell kit. The kit from the video is from MPC and shares its body with the Scavenger monster truck. Then there's the stock version from MPC that was out a few years ago.

No problem, like I said, it's got a bit of a twist in it and I got a replacement when they reissued these kits so I'm more than happy to donate it to the cause. I'm going to go ahead and post these measurements so they're here, if you need anything else let me know since the truck I have access to doesn't seem to be going anywhere. The grille for the Revell kit is the right size, it just needs the sharper upper corners added and faceted surround instead of round. Here's a thing to watch out for when looking for reference pics. I've seen three different front lower corners for the cabs, two of which won't work for the kit without moving the front axle back. I wanted to point it out to avoid confusion. This is the one that will work with the kit as is. This is the most common of the two corners for the longer spring, slightly set back front axle. Notice the wider separation between the rubber trim and body line as it gets closer to the headlight. This is the other, less common lower corner. This time the trim is the same as above but the body line is different.

Lord I hope not. It's time for new kits of these subjects.

I understand, I would prefer it be correct as well.

I have a Revell cab I'm sending you, I'll get in the mail first of the week. I'm also going to post some measurements I took of an E model that might help out.

Typical solvent glues that work for plastic don't work for 3d printed or resin parts. The need super glue or epoxy.

See is there's enough meat in the sides to thin them down a bit. Even if it won't fit in the notch the 29 firewall does you could remove about 1mm from the back of the 31 firewall and just flush mount it to the front of the body.