Fat Brian

Hey Charles, any ETA on the cross ram SBF?

I only saw the single carb intake in this one and only the cast aluminum valve covers. I might try to pick the decal sheet up though.

I went and busted out the calipers on this because you piqued my curiosity. The Monte roof is about 1/4 inch too narrow and the rear window shape isn't even close. I think a better option is the roof from the AMT 70 Impala. It's only about 1.5 millimeters narrower than the Revell roof and it has the correct C pillar shape. You'll need to cut the rear window frame out of the 66 roof and shorten it and graft it on to the 70 roof. Overall it seems pretty do-able. Here's the 70 Impala for comparison.

I agree, the AMT 67 GT350 kit is easy to get and by far the best choice as a donor. I was just speaking to the commonalities between the 67 and 68 kits because I've been testing stuff to build the best possible 68 GT500KR.

The dimensions of the AMT 67 and 68 are pretty close, the 67 guts go in the 68 easily. The issue is you'll have a 67 nose and 68 taillights. It will also take a bit of work to figure out where to cut the nose off.

Yes, the AMT headlights are taller than the Revell parts. The AMT front fascia also leans back at a steeper angle than the Revell nose. So the lights don't fit without swapping the entire front end. Really, you need to save the AMT lower bumper air dam to keep it a GT so there's some creative cutting needed to make it work.

The TS line is the glossy paints intended for cars, AS is typically armor stuff and is flat or semi gloss. The PS paints are for polycarbonate RC bodies. X is for acrylic brush paints. Those are broad categories and there may be a few oddball in any line.

Just to give you another option, if you've got a steady hand and can work quickly you could try brush painting it with Molotow. If you do it it needs to be the last thing you do, one stray finger and you'll ruin the finish on it.

One of the more recent issues of the Revell W900 semi kit, the flat top not the Aerodyne, has some very Heavy Metal style murals in it.

You could build the Little Red Wagon wheel stander and use the L700 cab with the Louisville race car hauler to build something like this.

Spin Doctors - Pocket Full of Kryptonite Paul Simon - Graceland Soundgarden - Down on the Upside Kentucky Headhunters - Electric Barnyard Tool - 10,000 Days

A pebbly surface like that usually means you're spraying from too far away from the body. As the paint particles move through the air they get drier as the paint vehicle evaporates out. If you're too far back from the body the paint gets too dry to flow out correctly so it kind of piles up in little globs. Try moving in a couple inches and see if the paint flows out better.

Very nice, this is one of the few TD kits I like. How much does the chassis of this kit share with the Monogram 78 pace car kits?

I use a liquid glue like Bondene for almost everything. A very few things get red tube glue if I want a bit of working time to get stuff straight.

The "Falcon" body I was using was a cut down Ranchero body with the top and trunk lid from a ruined 63 Falcon body. Nothing was square on it and it still needed a lot of work to get it presentable. I ended up buying an original 60 kit that had about every custom part glued to it so it's going to take some cleanup. I just don't want to rush it so I jumped on the Mustang. These kits are super simple and easy to knock out quickly.

My dad's first car was a Highland Green 68 LTD two door. I'm slowly collecting parts to build it and finally found a place locally that mixes spray cans. No modern green looks right, even the modern counterpart isn't really correct. This thing is beautiful in the sun, I'm going to have to take the final pics outside to really do it justice. They talk about models not taking certain dark colors well and needing to lighten them a bit so this was kind of a test to see how it would look. I have been thinking about a Bullitt car since I got this mixed up but there's so many other Mustang projects I want to do. But then again, I wasn't planning on building this a month ago and here we are.

I got the body painted today, the color is Ford Highland Green. I found a paint shop in town that mixes spray cans and wanted to test the paint before I used it on the intended project.

I'm making progress on the Mustang. I wanted the exhaust to come through the rear valance so I made that happen, I used 1/4 inch tube for the chrome trim around the holes and will add chrome tips. I also added lower rocker molding to dress it up a bit and subframe connectors to stiffen up the convertible floor pan. I'm going to be using the stock 289 but I added a T5 five speed from a 90s Fox body.

That's exactly what I've been looking for for my GT350R build. I'll certainly be getting one.

They joined a long line of trucks to be damaged in hauler accidents. The original King Kong and Taurus were basically destroyed and Modern Day Outlaw was damaged in three separate incidents in the 80s.

There are a few model car sub-Reddits I hang around. Hearing the perspective of the younger guys who will inherit the hobby one day is interesting.

In all my years of building I've never owned one of the venerable Monogram 55 Chevies. I decided to rectify that situation with the latest release of the kit. I cut the molded in exhaust out and replaced the rear end to get more lift. The wheels are a combo of two sets fron Jay's on ebay. The engine is from the Monogram 71 Cuda with random bits for the blower as well as the decals.

Does anyone have one of the old Revell 1/25 kits and would be willing to take some measurements for me? I need to build a 74 CJ-5 and this kit might be a great donor for the front end.

They're in the makeup palette, the plastic sheet covers over the little powder pots and separates them from the inside of the lid or mirror.

Here's a source for super thin and clear plastic sheets, makeup palettes. My wife is a makeup junkie and every palette she buys has a sheet of crystal clear plastic that's paper thin and whatever size the palette is. I used some for vent windows on a recent build and they practically disappear.