Fat Brian

Thank you both, I will take a look at these.

This is definitely one of those transitional cars before what would become a funny car was standardized. Is it a funny car by modern design elements? Not really. Is this car part of funny car DNA? Absolutely. To bring it to another subject, are Cream and Led Zeppelin heavy metal? Going back from today now that the form has been solidified they sound like blues rock bands but put on Sunshine of You're Love and you can hear the foundation heavy metal being laid.

Is there a non toxic resin that works pretty well? Does it really decrease the smell when printing? I can't use my printer with the supplied Phrozen resin because the smell makes my mother in law sick and it might be easier to switch resin than install a ventilation system.

To answer your question, yes, this fits the MPC/AMT fleetside bed like it was made for it.

The Revell Thunderbolt kit has tubular headers as does the Moebius 65 Comet but those will take a bit of work to fit to a standard FE. I believe the AMT 69 Torino had some headers, I don't remember them being great but you don't see much of them either.

Knowing what engine you're using would help. But, the 66 Galaxie kit has some tight fitting headers that might help with an FE install.

I did a hopped up 4 banger a while back and made a ohv conversion head and made a intake from some scraps. I did a Rajo head because it's a super simple shape, just a rectangle with sheet plastic cut into the shapes of the intake and exhaust flanges. The valve cover is for a Ford 2.3, it just happened to be the right size and shapes. I looked a bunch of early speed parts until found a few things simple enough I could reproduce them.

I've been looking into building a P bass myself. I want one of the 51 P basses with the single coil pickup but with the standard pickup in the rear position.

Yeah, I need to go back and label everything while I remember what it does. I tried to get the treble boost down to one switch but I couldn't figure out how to make it work and be true bypass, maybe I needed an on/on/on switch instead of on/off/on but wiring isn't my specialty.

Charles, you continue to raise the bar for 3d printed items. That is truly impressive, the engine and your dedication to getting it right.

Evidently I've decided this is going to be a guitar building year. Once I finished the tele I started on a Jazzmaster/Jaguar thing. It's a Jazzmaster body but I used a Jaguar pickguard with all of the control plates. Pickups are P90s and it's wired like a 50s Les Paul but under those plates is where things get weird. The small lower front plate has an active treble boost that can also act as a cocked wah. Under the upper plate is an onboard fuzz pedal that lives between the pickups. The body has a Strat style route so I bolted a Strat sustain block to the bottom of the bridge and the spring cavity holds two 9v batteries to power the boost/wah circuit and fuzz. I also threw in a kill switch just because.

God that thing looks heavy, my back hurts just looking at it.

The diagram I'm working on uses two coil split-able rail humbuckers, a five way super switch and two push/pull pots to give you seven total pickup options. Here's a link to the original post with some notes about a couple changes that need to be made. https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=1748&page=16 For the paint, the goal was a to make a guitar that looked like it have been through several revamps over the years. I started with what would have been the original finish, a two tone sunburst. Then I used a crackle stensil and applied the metallic red paint, I wanted wider cracks because I wanted the sunburst to be recognizable under the white top coat. The white was actual crackle paint and most of it fell off immediately and left way more of the red exposed than I had intended. At that point I was kind of over it so I covered what was left with polyurethane. Here's a better pic of the body.

I just need to post these pics so I can link to them on another forum I can't post pics on. I'm having some wiring issues.

The MPC King Cobra, white box, yellow car with big flares, green snakes, has the rear spoiler and side window louvres too. The rear louvres from the currently re-released Shelby Charger fit pretty good in the rear window too but will need to be shortened about a quarter inch.

Stuff like that hurts my heart. I hope they make it to someone who will restore before there's nothing left to save.

Yeah, that kit was out but seemed to be gone in a blink for some reason. I wanted it because it had the corrected body with the gasser parts but I didn't want to pay ebay prices. I got lucky and found one at a show for just over MSRP.

My shelves are semi trucks and odd shaped boxes, Japanese kits and armor (basically the flat boxes), cars and trucks sorted by manufacturer, then race cars of all sorts.

Work is pretty boring, I'm a scheduler for a utility company. Other than that I'm building a guitar right now and every once in a while I'll get distracted with a video game for a few weeks or so.

Yes, it's honestly one of my favorite parts of a build, figuring out how a vehicle came to be the way I'm building it. I think this started because I'm allergic to building anything stock and had to find a rationale for the things I build. How elaborate it gets really depends on fun the story becomes. Here's a recent example of a deep story dive:

At first I thought those were pics of the real car you were building a model of. That is truly incredible work.

I'm subscribed to that channel, the amount of people who just cover things with spray foam is truly astonishing.

I brush Molotow from the refill on small areas but it doesn't lay down smooth over large areas. Bare metal foil is your best bet.

Unfortunately, a lot of "classic" model kits don't hold up today. I took a shot at the Monogram Bad Man kit last year and halfway through I was wondering why I was subjecting myself to building such a bad kit when good 55 chevys exist. I feel like kits of that vein need a high dose of nostalgia for the builder to tolerate their shortcomings.

One thing that makes that particular kit difficult to lower is the metal axles. To lower the front you'll have to cut into the engine block unless you find a different way to mount the front wheels.