Fat Brian

It doesn't have the correct engine to be built stock, it has an 427 which had been phased out by 73 and a Boss 429 which was gone by 73 also. You'll need a 351 Windsor or a 351 Cleveland to make it actually stock.

I recently paid a fair amount for a Cougar and I don't know if I need more than one of those but I am looking forward to the Nova.

Here's a link to buy the engine Ace is talking about, I agree it's your best option for a hot but not full race 392. I've bought from this seller a lot and has good experiences. https://www.ebay.com/itm/115938165131?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Vx5zeMoiSYW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CNi_i6G9QKy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Here is someone selling printed copies. https://www.ebay.com/itm/255766309966?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=609VLjblRAW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CNi_i6G9QKy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

My first guess would be to use a textured paint and then sand it a bit to flatten the bumps but leave the valleys between them.

The Revell 66 might be a good start for the 65, you'd get the entire chassis and running gear from one kit. For the 68 I'd try the 69 Cutlass and the engine from the 68 Firebird when it's back later in the year.

Yeah, Krylon paints are pretty hot, even the "paint plus primer" ones. Duplicolor white is my favorite primer but you'll still have to work in thin coats.

Not old in the grand scheme of things but old to me, I built this 60 Starliner from an original issue kit in the early 2000s so it's creeping up on 20 years old if not at it already. Complete with plug wires and carb linkages along with XS tuning wheels it was probably my best build until the last few years.

I went back and forth on whether to put the dog dishes on the rear but figured it fit the story of a hurried project better to leave them off.

What a great build, and A+ for angling the spoiler the correct way.

Late October 1964, Dearborn Michigan Engineers for Ford's racing program are in a panic as NASCAR has just banned their new engine designed for super-speedway domination. In an effort to save the program they need to see if their engine geared for sustained high rpm operation can compete in other forms or racing. They need a test bed and they need it now. They scour the back lots of the Ford campus looking for a suitable chassis. They decide on a full size car for its roomier engine bay. After a few hours of looking they find it, a pre-production 1960 Starliner. This Starliner was one of the sample cars used to evaluate fit and finish before production ramped up. This car then went on to long term quality control testing before finally landing in a back lot used occasionally as a pool car by various departments. It was largely forgotten about when the engineers found it and drug it into their bay. First, out came the stock 352 and 3 speed along with the bench seats. They tossed in a set of E100 seats that had alo been swapped into the then new Fairlane Thunderbolts. Next, they raised the nose and added the rear coil spring assist from the Thunderbolt as well. Finally they dropped in a dual carb version of their new SOHC 427. ‐------------- I've been wanting to build this car for a while now. I love coming up with stories for why a car was built the way I envision it. The build itself was pretty straightforward, I put the Moebius cammer is the AMT 60 starliner and dud a few mods to mimic a drag car from the early 60s.

This is a conversation to have to have. Do we want Radwood, cars 80 to 99 with period appropriate mods or "The 80s", which would include all of the Radwood stuff but also prostreet and the beginnings of the billet hotrod scene and other period styling.

I would love a 76 Formula or SD Firebird with the two scoop hood.

So far I like the work vehicles, factory phantoms, and Radwood themes.

As I have come to learn recently, figure painting is an entirely different skill-set than model cars. I'm struggling mightily to retrain myself to a new way of thinking about color and painting techniques. Fortunately, there are tons of videos on YouTube that explain how to do it, you just have to translate that into the correct motions to reproduce it. If I were tackling that build I would try to get my basic colors done in Tamiya lacquers and seal it with a good clear. Then you can use Vallejo acrylics for the pattern and shading and things but can remove them easily and get back to your base coat if you don't like how it's turning out.

I paint the inside of the glass, otherwise you can see the mask lines on the outside and it looks odd.

I made this tee in a fuel line out of hexagonal plastic stock. The straight thru part is just drilled completely through and slid over a solid piece of wire. The side connection is glued on and drilled just deep enough to hold the wire.

I heard this as background music in a compilation of old drag racing pictures a while back and it still hits me in the feels every time. https://youtu.be/M0AI2ogNwhA?si=BRos-2_TJKMVAX1c

I agree, this deserves its own build. Make a post and we can hammer out some rules and a time period to shoot for.

I remember when I worked at Kmart as a teenager the hotwheels guys would come clean us out, buying cases at a time.

I saw that in the Ollie's thread. There are two close by but now that I work from home mostly I don't get to stop by as much as I did. I was thinking about getting one to build a 2+2 fastback. I still have the fastback parts from the kit I used to build this year's car with so I wouldn't need anything else. I don't know what the manager's deal was. Maybe someone mentioned to they or they noticed how the get cleaned out by resellers and they're trying to do something about it.

I've had more success using regular square stock over half round. The bottom of half round isn't flat so it doesn't stick all that well and it can be difficult to get it to take tight curves and stay flat. The square stuff is easier to work with and you just sand the top a little round once the glue is dry.

I remember those, I had a few top fuel dragster and stock cars. I think I also had a 34 Ford three window.

The pressure needed to cut the foil is very small. Here is a pic of the sheet I was cutting from the other day. You can see that you can cut the foil while barely marking the wax paper beneath. Some of my cuts aren't even visible.

What I've done is find tape the width of the amount I want to chop and wrap each pillar with tape to mark where and how much to cut. That looks like it will be a difficult job without stretching the roof a bit.