Fat Brian

When I'm working with clear taillights like that I paint them red then back them with bare metal foil. Silver paint isn't reflective but foil makes the lights look like they have some depth.

The first one might be the Cadillac engine from one of the AMT 49/50 Ford or Mercury kits.

I want to shout out DDs Speed Shop in addition to the others mentioned. I like a lot of his builds, and Dani's pretty nice to look at too.

The channel There I Ruined It does parodies where he will have one artist sing another's song or made up lyrics but I don't know what software he uses.

Parody songs can be a fun way to entertain yourself. I wrote a Battletech parody of Hallelujah a few years ago, I keep meaning to find someone to sing it because it won't be me.

I'm not who you asked but I recently started printing so I thought I'd chime in. I bought a Prozen mini S. I bought a small printer so if it was difficult I wouldn't have laid out much money for it. In hindsight I found it very easy and wish I'd bought a bigger printer. So, if you typically pick up on new things pretty easily you might want to buy the biggest printer you can afford. I buy files from Cults3d and subscribe to Fireballs Patreon. I use Blender to resize them and make modifications. I use Lychee Slicer, it's free and supports my printer. I think it's pretty easy to use, it automates some of the processes like adding supports. You do have to orient the things you're printing on the build plate first though. Sometimes it can be trial and error until you print find the ideal orientation for complex parts. The cleaning station is good for bigger parts but kind of wasteful for little stuff. If you use water washable resin it will be much more economical that filling it with alcohol constantly.

If I was going to attempt this I would soak the decal until it released from the backing paper and then keep soaking uuntil all the glue was washed off it. Then you could use something like Future to hold the face of the decal to the inside of the glass. Definitely attempt this with a decal and glass you don't care about first.

These are pretty close. You'll have to sand inside the flares to get it really low. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325058789542?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=VFPC8PxcSpO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CNi_i6G9QKy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Mod Podge is very thick and a little goes a long way. It dries clear and if it does squeeze out around the window frame you can clean it up with a wet q tip. Once I've test fit the glass piece I use a toothpick to apply it far enough back that it hopefully won't push out beyond the edge of the body. Personally, I prefer clear water based paint like Tamiya. I think I have better control of it and it's not goopy like mod podge.

Try Chris Drysdale with Maple Leaf Modelworks. He makes nailhead stuff and does large scales. I didn't see anything exactly like that in his Shapeways page but based on his other stuff it's something he could do.

I don't know of anyone that makes big gas straight sixes but Texas_3D_Customs just did the GMC twin six.that and the Super Duty v8 from the C600 are about the only ones available of the shelf.

Here's an automotive offering from them. https://youtu.be/qW9mZLnQ7Yc?si=uB6OZlcB__-Uam2D

I've gotten a few kits with spotted chrome like that, it tends to be the old Lindberg kits mostly. Before you strip the whole thing you might want to try just touching up the spots with Molotow. Patching spots on chrome tends to blend better that trying rechrome the entire part sometimes, especially if the patch is on the bottom where the light doesn't directly hit it.

On Every Street might be may favorite Dire Straits album.

The Revell 40 Ford kits have a nice one that can be had with speed parts. The Revell 32 Tudor that has just been brought back had a neat one with a C4 automatic. The AMT 41 Ford Woody custom has one with modern efi. Texas_3D_Customs has a good selection of flathead stuff too.

Tamiya and Duplicolor are my go to gloss blacks and you can't go wrong with either one, it's really whichever one you're the most comfortable using.

If you wanted to get super ambitious there's the 1/20 Lindberg Explorer that could serve as a decent base for a Bronco II.

And on the topic of ZZ Top, how has La Grange not been mentioned yet? That's basically a solo in three acts.

I wholeheartedly agree with all the Mark Knophler love but his greatest riff has to be Money for Nothing. While not a Pantera fan generally. Walk has got to be in the discussion. You'll break your neck headbanging to that litte ditty. Harvester of Sorrow is a person favorite of mine.

I've been buying from him or a long time, always a great product for a good price. I'm glad he's safe with all the trouble over there.

I swear by Mr Super Clear on tires, its never dried sticky on any tire or rubber tank track material.

The Revell 71 Olds kits have a very similar AC compressor and I believe the AMT 72 chevy trucks have a belt arrangement that would work.

They certainly wouldn't be called transitional during their time period, only when looking back can we see the evolution of a design.

Thank you both, I will take a look at these.

This is definitely one of those transitional cars before what would become a funny car was standardized. Is it a funny car by modern design elements? Not really. Is this car part of funny car DNA? Absolutely. To bring it to another subject, are Cream and Led Zeppelin heavy metal? Going back from today now that the form has been solidified they sound like blues rock bands but put on Sunshine of You're Love and you can hear the foundation heavy metal being laid.