Fat Brian

I agree with Bill on all counts. From an advice standpoint, spraying a tad closer to the body will cause your paint to be a bit wetter when it hits the body which will allow it to flow out better. Another thing that can cause this is primer that's not been wet sanded. I didn't believe it until I tried it for myself but it makes a huge difference.

Here are some pics of the 429 from the Torino kit. There are some similar design elements for sure.

Yes, good greens are hard to come by now. I ended up finding a local paint shop that mixed spray cans if you provided the code for what you wanted.

The modern 1/32 snap monster truck tires are 52mm x 36.7mm with 22mm holes. Then there are the ex MPC monster truck tires that were in the 90s snap kits, they're 61mm x 37.5mm with a 27mm hole. This might give you an idea which set would work for what you're doing.

So many folks in the triad, me and Mike are on our lonesome near Charlotte.

I want to build a car from my childhood. In the mid 80s there was a red with silver stripes Mach 1 whose owner worked at a McDonald's we went to a lot. I didn't know what kind of car it was at the time and it had seen better days but it had wide Cragars and slapper bars along with the faded red paint. I want to build it like it must have looked in it's heyday. Something probably like this. I know this is a 73, I honestly don't remember what year the actual car was.

It does, I managed to score a set of those decals from ebay recently. Still, I'd like to see Revells shot at them.

I wonder about this too, I'd love to get a full set of stripes without having to go to the aftermarket.

There's another Pantera tooling out there that seems to have gotten around a bit. I've seen it in Nichimo, Imai, and Airfix boxes. It has the race fender flares and a squarish front air dam and is an old motorized kit too.

The tanks in the Ford Louisville truck are smaller than true semi tanks and might work for you.

I've got the Flintstone part, it's not egregiously thick. I'll probably just stick a few door panel details to the inside and call it good.

I don't buy anything without either intending to build it or to use it as a donor to build something. For a long time I did try to protect the value of what I had though, so I didn't mix parts or anything until I was ready to build whatever it was. Recently though, I've been running short on space so I've been combining all the parts of a project into a "kit" of sorts so I can store or dispose of the unwanted parts.

I've got the interior almost finished and most of the chassis parts are painted and ready to go once the exhaust is on. There's a bit of a peek at the body color too.

Here's a build I did of the Monogram 66 Mustang kit with the Cobra 427 in it. The 427 has the Cobra road race oil pan so you might have to cut it off and find a replacement. My engine has the block and oil pan from the Monogram 69 Talladega kit with the Cobra heads, valve covers and intake. I switch the C6 from the Talladega for a manual transmission. Fitting any exhaust manifolds was a huge problem. I had to sand the inside face of the shock towers until they were literally paper thin and run the manifolds from the AMT 66 Galaxie. It's a cool build though and impressive once it's in there.

Yeah, we've tossed around what might have happened to these kits before. The Miller and GTP cars where never altered so if they still exist they might have been in the US based tooling that ended up with Atlantis. The 83-87 body on the Revell kit was updated to the 88-93 body and then to to the blue Camaro body. So if that kit still exists it will be as the Camaro. If we can determine where the last reissue of that car we made we can make an educated guess about where the tooling might be.

Check out this thread by Bill Geary, he seems to have found and 3d printed a body that looks superior to the Revell offering. https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/179346-3d-printed-1967-dodge-coronet-440/

Oh, 100% we are our own worst enemy most of the time in this regard. I'm highly guilty of it.

There's also whether whatever inaccuracy spoils the look of the vehicle. I see the Duster window but it doesn't significantly alter the overall look of the car for me. On the other hand, now that I've seen the issue with the 68/69 Roadrunner/GTX rear fenders I can't unsee it and haven't built any of those kits until I commit to fixing it.

It may be worth it to you to check out the new Demon kit and see if the rear window shape is any better. If so you could try to swap them over.

Yeah, unfortunately superchargers are a part where the model companies took a lot of liberties with their shape. Modern kits are better but I can't think of many with full race engines though.

The 56 Thunderbird has one, it's okay but not great.

Yes, it certainly does. I had heard his products had gotten better but at least this piece is still junk.

Wow, they took an already ugly car and made it even uglier.

To add to Steve's comment, the Revell 68 Firebird is coming back with its single 4 barrel intake.

I bought a pack of popsicle sticks and sand one into whatever shape I need. I typically have one around sanded into a flat chisel point too.