Fat Brian

Check out this post from the new truck kits section, it shows just about every version of the Moebius Ford's. https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/195497-moebius-1971-lifted-ford-f250-4x4-announcement/?do=findComment&comment=2935710

Before I paint anything I test fit. There's not much worse than finding out your freshly painted parts don't fit and need to be sanded.

I prefer the 76, I like the grille with the fog lights.

This is what I do as well for the exact same reason. Early in my ebay career I got in a bidding war for a kit I really wanted and over the course of a couple days bid it up to more than I really wanted to pay then still got sniped at the end of the auction.

Awesome, I've been looking for a split window Beetle for a long time.

I agree with Steve, just use Duplicolor primer and you shouldn't ever have this problem again. I've shot about anything you can think of over it without issue. Even actual car paint from an autobody shop near me that mixes cans went over it just fine.

I only bid in the last 5 seconds of an auction. Otherwise you're just bidding the price up on yourself. I pick the price I'm willing to pay and bid that amount, if I win it for less great and if I lose I'm on to the next one.

I agree with the other posters, this is pretty classic paint incompatibility. Use Duplicolor primer under Duplicolor paint and it will greatly reduce the chances of this happening.

Those were from Shapeways. The designer is a member here, his name is Camaro69 or something like that. I would be interested to know if he has found another place to post his parts because he had some good stuff.

Be sure to wet sand your primer before the color coat. I wasn't a believer in primer because every time I used it my paint came out pebbly-er than a dirt road. Finally I took the advice to wet sand my primer and it was a game changer.

The 69 Mach 1 kits use the shaker hood and it should drop on the Boss 302 kit with an issue.

I have BeamNG on my computer, you can buy it on Steam. It's fun to just crash stuff, most racing games don't have damage models but that's where Beam excels. You need a pretty stout computer to run it though, all that deformation takes a lot of RAM.

I used to build 3d models for games and people were bad about stealing stuff in that community too. And we were doing it for free.

I can see how this would work but I'm concerned it would thin the paint too much around panel line edges. I think you would need to pre-shade around panel lines and sharp edges like the aircraft guys do to have a bit more margin for errors in the thinner coat. It's certainly and interesting idea though.

Coke was my favorite soda but after getting covid last year something about it tastes off and I can't drink it anymore.

I can't stand basically all diet drinks but I've been looking for something because I've got to get some weight off. I've been trying the Mio flavoring squirters. Some flavors are better than others but there are a few I can drink without gagging. Edit: I've been having increasing light sensitivity and headaches for the last two weeks. It turns out Sucralose is a migraine trigger. I hadn't really had a migraine before, I thought I had an aneurysm and almost went to the ER. Maybe don't try that stuff after all.

AMT just brought back the 57 Chevy street rod with a modern chassis. Adapting it to a Chevelle should be prohibitively difficult.

Wow, this is really cool and unexpected.

AODs are easy to find, every Revell 32 Ford kit has one in it.

The main issue with the Lincoln is those electronics are bound to start going bad soon even if everything works right now. Finding parts is going to be difficult if not impossible. At least the Nova won't get sidelined by an unobtanium electrical doo-dad going bad.

It has a lot of elements of an early 80s Tamiya RC dune buggy. The big square side pontoons and the shape of the rear bodywork are pretty similar.

The red Monogram 79 will build the top car with the standard nose and forward facing hood scoop, the Monogram pace car version will build the lower car with the front air dam and cowl hood. The MPC 79 pace car kit has parts for either nose and a flat or cowl hood.

This kit has also be reissued in the last few years so don't over pay for an old one unless you're a collector or something. If you just want to build it get a recent issue.

I will agree 100% with that. The Monogram version of both early front ends has an odd appearance. I think the shape of the headlight recess is too downwardly tapered on the outside edge leading to a sad-eyed look. I've stared at it for hours and I'm still not sure how to fix it really.

See if you can send the designer a message, they might have posted on another site or be willing to sell the model for you to print on your own.