Fat Brian

I'm pretty sure the 49 Mercury has some tools in it.

The best chassis for this is the Dodge L700 cabover, it has the two speed axle and everything. If you want the Ford engine from the C600 it shouldn't be too hard to find one, those kits get their engines swapped pretty frequently or you might find one from a kit breaker on ebay.

Is that it sticking out of the back of the frame in the second pic? With monster trucks primarily being on dirt those tubes going into a tank isn't nearly as important as it is on a drag car or similar.

Yeah, I think that guy got his wires crossed a bit. The MPC snap Blazer should be the one that was out as an emergency response vehicle about 12 years ago.

Unchopping it shouldn't be too bad, the roof section is a separate piece so its easy to work with. Since they're great kits and you will probably build more than 1 anyway use the top section from the second kit to make one standard height roof and one super chopped one. I chopped mine an additional 3 or 4 inches, that is about enough to bring one back to stock if you put the long sides together. Cut one roof close to the bottom of the pillars and the other close to the roof and switch the tops to the other bottom. Here's a picture of mine, you can see the seam where the roof meets the body through the window. The hardest cut is on the back, the rear window is kind of high so the cuts have to angle down to meet the side cuts.

My printer is my house and I can't use it because it gives everyone in the house a headache due to the smell. I'm going to have to put an extraction fan in my model room to use. I also have bought some water soluble resin that is supposed to have less fumes but I haven't tried it yet.

I'm looking for the clear parts tree from the Revell/Monogram 93 Mustang Cobra. I've got plenty to trade.

It depends on how good the scanner is. Resin can print things nearly as good as kit parts. The issue would be getting the parts to print correctly on the trees and printing in an orientation that minimizes the supports being on areas that will be seen. I think trying to print the exact parts layout of a plastic model isn't going to be the solution until some issues with the current printers are resolved. You would get a better end product by designing the parts individually and arranging them to print in the best orientation on the build plate that hides the support side as much as possible.

Are they breaking into a few big pieces or turning about to dust?

My advice is to buy the biggest one you can. I bought a Sonic Mini S and its too small to print bodies, I wish I had spent the extra to get a bigger machine. I tried to be cautious and not spend a bunch not knowing if I could even do it but I've found printing pretty easy but now I'm limited by a small machine.

I agree with Steve that test fitting is extremely important, even moreso when you're making changes to a kit. The best time to find out that something doesn't fit is before there's paint or glue on it. Another issue is that the instructions might not be the best way to assemble a kit. The easiest way usually has you gluing painted body parts together, especially for newer cars. Test fitting allows you to find alternative means of assembly and see if you can squeeze the chassis into the body with the painted bumper covers on or where you need to trim to make it possible.

Duplicate post

Its supposed to be later this year, there is a dedicated thread in the kit news area. The Revell 57 Ford kits have very good 312 engines in them. There are a few engine options depending the kit, stock, dual four barrels, and the factory centrifugal supercharger. There might even be two different dual quad intakes, I want to say one is the original "towering inferno" intake and the one in the gasser versions is a little more modern.

The best thing about the Comet chassis is it is exactly the right length, you can butt it right up again the inside of the tailgate and have the wheels almost perfectly where they need to be. The Mustang piece will take a bit of extending to completely fill the rear of the Ranchero body.

I paid a visit to the stash and the wheelbase of the Moebius 65 Comet matches exactly the 61 Ranchero. You would have to narrow the chassis plate about 1/8 of an inch to fit the Ranchero body. The Comet inner fenders are separate pieces so you won't have to cut them out of the body but the Comet hood is a bit wider so you might have to add strips it the top to narrow it to match the Ranchero body. The biggest issue is going to be deciding what to do about the bed. The easiest thing would be to cut the entire inner bed out of the body and use the tonneau cover in the kit. Trimming the Comet interior door panels to fit the Ranchero would be a huge improvement too. If you can wait until the new versions of the Comet kit come out you would get a modern chassis and engine parts to swap in.

And to add to Marks point, Moebius is coming out with a pro touring style 65 Comet that may have modern suspension pieces but won't be massively tubbed or anything.

They're about equivalent to AMT, like AMT a lot are old promos and annuals that have been through the wringer to varying degrees. In fact, a few kits on the market are combinations of AMT and MPC parts, the 70 Superbee comes to mind immediately with it's AMT chassis and MPC body and interior.

Yep, I open every kit I get to inventory it. It's much easier to replace missing or damaged stuff when a kit in new versus ten years down the line when you finally decide to break it open and build it.

Most of the kits I order from Amazon come pre-crushed but I don't think they left the factory that way.

Everything Johan is sought after to a degree, they aren't making any more of them. Being a Pinto some people love this kit and others would never build it. If you're wondering whats in the box it's exactly like the 71 Mustang kit they did, just with a Pinto body. They're good kits and I like them though they can require a bit of clean-up, one of my kits is much more flashy than the other one. The tires will almost certainly need to be replaced, both of mine are goopy and warped. I guess the answer really depends on if you like drag stuff. I don't build many full on race cars so I cleared out a lot of my drag stash a year or so ago but I kept this kit and the Mustang because I new I would never find another one for what I paid for it 15 years ago if I did get a desire to build it one day. If you prefer other subjects I would definitely leave it wrapped and flip it. If you want to build it though, go ahead. The money you make you'll spend finding a replacement.

It should be noted that all the old AMT wheels are spindle mounts and the ones OP asked about are flange/lug nut mounted. This may or may not matter but it's worth pointing out.

Thank you, I only had to strip it 4 times because the paint kept bleeding under the tape or the tape would peel up the white.

The AMT 49 Mercury also has some flathead parts, Offenhauser finned heads and a dual carb intake.

3d Scale Parts sells those on ebay but they're pretty overpriced at nearly $20 a pair. The model is also for sale on Cults3d if you know someone who could print it.

Duplicolor has something called "Universal White" that is very close to that. It's between a true white and their Wimbledon White which I think is too creamy. This is Universal White This is Wimbledon White