Fat Brian

Yeah, I had intended to put block off plates on the dumps and run mufflers under the car but kind of ran out of steam and wanted it done.

The AMT 67 Impala street machine has a really nice fuel injection setup for big block Chevy engines. There's also big block EFI in the AMT 68 El Camino street machine and AMT 70 Chevelle.

A good Mack B model would get me to open my wallet. It doesn't even have to be an entire kit, a good cab and interior with an opening hood would be enough. Most people want the early small grill version but I want the later version with the bigger grille.

I don't know about a 7m but I'm putting a 2j in mine. The one I have is 3d printed but the Tamiya MkIV kits are cheap enough you could buy one for just the engine without hurting too much.

I don't think any of the MkIII kits are full detail. However, the hood on the new Hasegawa kit is molded to open so it's pretty easy comparatively to add an engine to because it's already got the windshield cowl which is the hardest part to make on your own. I've got one I'm going to do it to myself.

I'm getting the ride height and engine fitment dialed in on the Monaco. I'm using a set of top car wheels from Fireball too.

I used a section from a Revell 65 Impala rear bumper that was short shot on one end. It fit surprisingly well.

I would imagine Cannonball rules take over at this point since increased fuel capacity is a common Cannonball mod.

I'm looking for the body from the 2000s Revell Willys kit. All I'm after is the rear windows so it can be a partial body or even just the top.

This one's headed for the shelf, not super great but finished.

One more done for the year. I kind of built this to go with the 55 chevy I finished a while ago. I swapped in the engine from the Monogram Cobra and added a parts box fuel injection manifold.

Here is this year's victim, the Revell 90 Mustang drag version. I chose this kit because it has a tubular front suspension option and some decent engine upgrades right from the box. I'm going to drop the rear spoiler and change the wheels and tires to ones that suit the theme better. It will also be getting the GT body kit from the AMT 88 kit.

I've got my parts ready, I'm just waiting on the 1st.

Here's a post that might help.

Here is my entry. This is the burnout car I posted about a couple weeks ago. It's going to be painted like a police car with the huge Cummins sticking out of the hood. I was inspired to build itby seeing one on YouTube.

Once of the most important skills to learn is where you can cheap out and where you should pay for quality. I use a bunch of Rustoleum paints, but use them for flat stuff like chassis and interiors that don't need a super smooth and shiny finish.

Yep, put it in an alcohol bath, the stronger the better. I use Duplicolor white primer under everything now because it strips easily with Superclean no matter what is painted over it. That way I don't have to keep multiple stripper buckets.

They're the same hollow tires they've been using the last few years just with BFG lettering now. I don't like it, the tread on BFGs is so distinct the tires in the kit don't look right at all.

Chevy long beds split the added 18 inches into two sections. One foot is added to the end of the bed on the cab side of the rear wheel wells and six inches is added between the rear wheel well and back bumper. If you have the 72 chevy truck kit use the bed sides in it as guides and make your sides match them because the beds interchange on the real trucks.

I've had both but not at the same time. I do believe they are the same though.

No, "day 2" is typically period correct mods that would have been done by the original owner. This is about adding stuff to make an old car perform like and have the creature comforts of a modern car.

I don't think it's necessarily sleeperball. Where a sleeper is supposed to look unassuming a restomod can be a real or clone of a factory performance model with all the badging. A 'Cuda with Hemi billboards is not a sleeper but can be a restomod, especially if it's a clone.

Engine and transmission swaps are completely allowed under the bolt on rules as long as you don't have to butcher the car to make it fit. Getting the modern performance and reliability of an LS or 5.0 or 2jz swap in an older car is totally the spirit of restomodding.

Both of my pens only lasted about six months but my refill has lasted a couple years now. I save my water bottle lids and when I need to use molotow I put a few drops in a lid so my bottle is only open for a few seconds at any time.

I feel like making the definition that broad is basically doing "run what you brung" again. Maybe we could limit mods to bolt on stuff. Engines, axles, better brakes, interior mods, wheels and tires are fair game but tubs, wide bodies, independent suspension conversion, things like that are prohibited.