Fat Brian

I'm in the Charlotte area too. In addition to Spartanburg in January there is a show in Simpsonville in May I believe and a show in Clemmons NC later inthe summer. There is the February swap meet mentioned and there will be another one in April in Shelby.

You could always grind it off completely. A car that modified probably would run that spoiler anyway. Something more like the one in the Revell notchback kit would work better.

There is no other part to the spoiler on those kits. The SVO version has a piece that goes on top of the spoiler but not the pace car version.

If you don't mind going with aftermarket parts Texas_3D_Customs will print their stuff in about any scale you want. I had Charles do a 1/20 scale engine for a kit I have.

Theyre not from a Countach, just kind of inspired by one. They look pretty easy to make from sheet styrene, they're basically the same shape as that face of the rear hatch cover. Use that area for a template and then thin strips to make the open area.

I've never seen scoops like those before, even in the 90s when there were a lot of Countach influences on Pantera body kits. The car was obviously re-done at some point so it would be interesting to see how they're made.

I used the drive chain off one of the little mini bikes to make a drive for a hydraulic pump.

I'm looking for the Monogram 80 Trans Am kit or a decent rebuilder.

Just to add, the flathead in the 32 kit has a C4 automatic transmission.

If I remember correctly the front axle as assembled is too wide. With aftermarket wheels it might not be as much of an issue but something to keep on mind. I believe most folks end up leaving the brake drums off as an easy fix.

I can see it both ways, but if a person wants to advance in the hobby there's nothing stopping them. My youtube feed is full of other builders doing very high caliber builds so anyone watching him will see these videos available too. And if someone has fun building like him then that's fine too.

I've done this two different ways. One is to use thin strips of plastic to make like a door jam around the opening in the body then glue the door to them. I overlap about 1/8" to give a good surface for gluing. Another way is to use very thin strips to go around the door piece. Glue them a little lower than the surface of the body panel, this will create you panel gap once the part is in. Now sand the added edges down slowly until the part fits the door opening snugly and glue it in.

You have to understand, we're the lunatic fringe. Most builders are content with Rustoleum paints and Testors tube glue. I'm sure the model companies love him because he makes building models look accessible. Honestly, I'm sure the model companies don't give a flip what happens to a kit once it gets bought. If Chris is the entry point for new builders to come into the hobby I think it's a net good to all of us.

Check out this post from the new truck kits section, it shows just about every version of the Moebius Ford's. https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/195497-moebius-1971-lifted-ford-f250-4x4-announcement/?do=findComment&comment=2935710

Before I paint anything I test fit. There's not much worse than finding out your freshly painted parts don't fit and need to be sanded.

I prefer the 76, I like the grille with the fog lights.

This is what I do as well for the exact same reason. Early in my ebay career I got in a bidding war for a kit I really wanted and over the course of a couple days bid it up to more than I really wanted to pay then still got sniped at the end of the auction.

Awesome, I've been looking for a split window Beetle for a long time.

I agree with Steve, just use Duplicolor primer and you shouldn't ever have this problem again. I've shot about anything you can think of over it without issue. Even actual car paint from an autobody shop near me that mixes cans went over it just fine.

I only bid in the last 5 seconds of an auction. Otherwise you're just bidding the price up on yourself. I pick the price I'm willing to pay and bid that amount, if I win it for less great and if I lose I'm on to the next one.

I agree with the other posters, this is pretty classic paint incompatibility. Use Duplicolor primer under Duplicolor paint and it will greatly reduce the chances of this happening.

Those were from Shapeways. The designer is a member here, his name is Camaro69 or something like that. I would be interested to know if he has found another place to post his parts because he had some good stuff.

Be sure to wet sand your primer before the color coat. I wasn't a believer in primer because every time I used it my paint came out pebbly-er than a dirt road. Finally I took the advice to wet sand my primer and it was a game changer.

The 69 Mach 1 kits use the shaker hood and it should drop on the Boss 302 kit with an issue.

I have BeamNG on my computer, you can buy it on Steam. It's fun to just crash stuff, most racing games don't have damage models but that's where Beam excels. You need a pretty stout computer to run it though, all that deformation takes a lot of RAM.