Fat Brian

Yes, this release will have a normal roof, there is also a separate flat hood that did not replace either of the originally supplied hoods in the kit. We will have to see if the T tops ever return.

I agree with using tube glue for engine halves and heads, I like the extra drying time to line things up. Sometimes the alignment pins are misaligned too and that leads to the halves being uneven. I usually trim the pins off and sand the mating face of each half on a long flat sanding stick so I can align them better to save on sanding. Then I sand it with sanding twigs, you can get them on Amazon.

I'm not sure what you mean. Both posts will yield a stock 72 Torino with an engine and modern chassis.

I built this kit last year for the first time, I had avoided it for the previous 30 years becausei knew I wouldn't like what I found. I had planned to just build it out of the box warts and all. That plan didn't last very long. The fitment, or lack there of, of the windshield was more than I could bear. I ended up cutting the windshield free from the rest of the glass which helped a bit. Once I started changing stuff it just snowballed.

I wasn't sure when the Camaro dropped the inline engine.

I'm planning one too and Trevor is right. Unfortunately the Revell 70 Torino chassis is incorrect so you need the 76 kit. That kit doesn't play nice with the Johan body though, either the Revell kit is big or the Johan kit is small but the Revell chassis will need significant trimming to get it to fit. The wheel bases are slightly different too. I'm trying to decide if it will be easier to trim the chassis or transplant the Johan nose and fast back rear onto the Revell body. I added a couple pice to show how much bigger the Revell body is.

He might have also meant the v6 from the 78 El Camino kit.

That Blazer is impressive. The tooling is clearly designed to be modular, the Blazer specific parts are easily removed for other body styles to be included. I'm certain we will see pickup variants of this before long.

When I'm working with clear taillights like that I paint them red then back them with bare metal foil. Silver paint isn't reflective but foil makes the lights look like they have some depth.

The first one might be the Cadillac engine from one of the AMT 49/50 Ford or Mercury kits.

I want to shout out DDs Speed Shop in addition to the others mentioned. I like a lot of his builds, and Dani's pretty nice to look at too.

The channel There I Ruined It does parodies where he will have one artist sing another's song or made up lyrics but I don't know what software he uses.

Parody songs can be a fun way to entertain yourself. I wrote a Battletech parody of Hallelujah a few years ago, I keep meaning to find someone to sing it because it won't be me.

I'm not who you asked but I recently started printing so I thought I'd chime in. I bought a Prozen mini S. I bought a small printer so if it was difficult I wouldn't have laid out much money for it. In hindsight I found it very easy and wish I'd bought a bigger printer. So, if you typically pick up on new things pretty easily you might want to buy the biggest printer you can afford. I buy files from Cults3d and subscribe to Fireballs Patreon. I use Blender to resize them and make modifications. I use Lychee Slicer, it's free and supports my printer. I think it's pretty easy to use, it automates some of the processes like adding supports. You do have to orient the things you're printing on the build plate first though. Sometimes it can be trial and error until you print find the ideal orientation for complex parts. The cleaning station is good for bigger parts but kind of wasteful for little stuff. If you use water washable resin it will be much more economical that filling it with alcohol constantly.

If I was going to attempt this I would soak the decal until it released from the backing paper and then keep soaking uuntil all the glue was washed off it. Then you could use something like Future to hold the face of the decal to the inside of the glass. Definitely attempt this with a decal and glass you don't care about first.

These are pretty close. You'll have to sand inside the flares to get it really low. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325058789542?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=VFPC8PxcSpO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CNi_i6G9QKy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Mod Podge is very thick and a little goes a long way. It dries clear and if it does squeeze out around the window frame you can clean it up with a wet q tip. Once I've test fit the glass piece I use a toothpick to apply it far enough back that it hopefully won't push out beyond the edge of the body. Personally, I prefer clear water based paint like Tamiya. I think I have better control of it and it's not goopy like mod podge.

Try Chris Drysdale with Maple Leaf Modelworks. He makes nailhead stuff and does large scales. I didn't see anything exactly like that in his Shapeways page but based on his other stuff it's something he could do.

I don't know of anyone that makes big gas straight sixes but Texas_3D_Customs just did the GMC twin six.that and the Super Duty v8 from the C600 are about the only ones available of the shelf.

Here's an automotive offering from them. https://youtu.be/qW9mZLnQ7Yc?si=uB6OZlcB__-Uam2D

I've gotten a few kits with spotted chrome like that, it tends to be the old Lindberg kits mostly. Before you strip the whole thing you might want to try just touching up the spots with Molotow. Patching spots on chrome tends to blend better that trying rechrome the entire part sometimes, especially if the patch is on the bottom where the light doesn't directly hit it.

On Every Street might be may favorite Dire Straits album.

The Revell 40 Ford kits have a nice one that can be had with speed parts. The Revell 32 Tudor that has just been brought back had a neat one with a C4 automatic. The AMT 41 Ford Woody custom has one with modern efi. Texas_3D_Customs has a good selection of flathead stuff too.

Tamiya and Duplicolor are my go to gloss blacks and you can't go wrong with either one, it's really whichever one you're the most comfortable using.

If you wanted to get super ambitious there's the 1/20 Lindberg Explorer that could serve as a decent base for a Bronco II.