Fat Brian

Yep, I bought the same hood from the same ebay seller and it's hot garbage.

I got the car lowered a good bit and found some wheels that actually fit, there was no way to get the 20s on without more mods than fit the theme.

I didn't think there was any way we'd build this kit the same but we're certainly on the same wavelength.

Chevy splits the extra length and adds about a foor on the cab end of the bed and six inches on the tailgate end. This makes converting a Chevy bed a lot more work. When I made a long bed for the AMT Fall Guy truck I used the 72 bed as a reference because the beds interchange on the real trucks. If you want a 72 short bed just reverse the process and cut it down to match the Fall Guy bed. Honestly, at this point I'd rather wait on the Moebius list that's coming in '25. Here are some comparative pics of Chevy beds.

I was able to take some measurements of the available 90s Ford beds this morning. Making a 1/24 short bed would be pretty easy since Ford adds all the additional length at the cab end of the bed. I measured the AMT long and short beds and the Monogram long bed and was able to determine that if you shorten the 1/24 long bed 17mm to a length of 91mm it will make a correct short bed. Here is a pic of the AMT long and short beds together.

The AMT 70s Ford truck is really difficult because the rear wheel wells are moved back from the normal pickup location because the kit is a Camper Special model. Even if you cut the right amount off the front of the bed the rear wheels will be too far back. The rear wheel arches are also the wrong shape for a standard pickup bed. To make a good short bed or even a correct standard long bed you need to rob the rear wheel arches from the Bronco kit.

I build a Mustang every year, it's a little extra challenge I give myself that I enjoy. This is my sixth year doing it.

There's no way to know for sure but it's been a while since it was out and most common kits are on an 8 to 12 year reissue schedule so it should eventually rotate back into production. The surest way to get it to come back out is to go to ebay and greatly over pay for one. That seems to get them to dust off a tooling.

The wheel faerie paid me a visit today and left me some options to choose from, 18" Ponies or 20" 2000s stock style. I'm leaning toward the 2000s wheels, the Ponies have a bit too much tire but would be perfect on a 1/24 kit.

Thank you, I'll take a look.

There is a lot of this kind of stuff out that's not a whole kit but would sell really well if it was done right.

I'm collecting parts to build the first car I ever loved, my friends dad's 69 Roadrunner. It was a 383 airgrabber car and had the big Coyote Duster sticker on the air cleaner lid. I've never seen this sticker in a kit before, unfortunately. Does anyone have any idea where I could find one?

That's what I was thinking too, paint both and see how it looks when it's more complete.

I got the body kit on the Mustang this morning. I can't decide if I like the cowl hood or not.

Another low hanging fruit would be a 351 hood for the California Hauler.

Yeah, I had intended to put block off plates on the dumps and run mufflers under the car but kind of ran out of steam and wanted it done.

The AMT 67 Impala street machine has a really nice fuel injection setup for big block Chevy engines. There's also big block EFI in the AMT 68 El Camino street machine and AMT 70 Chevelle.

A good Mack B model would get me to open my wallet. It doesn't even have to be an entire kit, a good cab and interior with an opening hood would be enough. Most people want the early small grill version but I want the later version with the bigger grille.

I don't know about a 7m but I'm putting a 2j in mine. The one I have is 3d printed but the Tamiya MkIV kits are cheap enough you could buy one for just the engine without hurting too much.

I don't think any of the MkIII kits are full detail. However, the hood on the new Hasegawa kit is molded to open so it's pretty easy comparatively to add an engine to because it's already got the windshield cowl which is the hardest part to make on your own. I've got one I'm going to do it to myself.

I'm getting the ride height and engine fitment dialed in on the Monaco. I'm using a set of top car wheels from Fireball too.

I used a section from a Revell 65 Impala rear bumper that was short shot on one end. It fit surprisingly well.

I would imagine Cannonball rules take over at this point since increased fuel capacity is a common Cannonball mod.

This one's headed for the shelf, not super great but finished.

One more done for the year. I kind of built this to go with the 55 chevy I finished a while ago. I swapped in the engine from the Monogram Cobra and added a parts box fuel injection manifold.