Fat Brian

The Scalemates page for this kit has the instructions for the regular version for download, that will cover all but the Foose specific stuff.

I use the Dremel cutoff wheels. Wear safety glasses and be careful, the axle can get pretty hot. If you don't have that much to remove you can deepen the holes in the wheels a bit too.

This could be it, we thought they got the scale wrong on the 81 Camaro last year and it ended up being the old Revell snap kit instead of the Monogram 79 kit.

True, and it's a bit crude for today. 3d printed would be the way to go if one was available.

There's an AMC straight six in the recent Pacer kits.

I use the same stuff, I was just saying it could be used that way.

Interesting, I was probably going to use the engine from the Revell 62.

I actually decant brake cleaner into an old Pro Weld bottle and use it for glue.

Thank you, this is the kind of info I was looking for. I just wanted to be sure there wasn't something odd about the snap kit that made fitting a different chassis harder than it should be.

I agree, it's more about they're being weird aspects of the kit design making it more difficult than it should be.

Probably the coupe, the interiors are most likely the closest. Though below it looks like you're better off using the 63 interior.

Has anyone tried to put the Revell snap 63 split window on the full detail 67 Corvette chassis?

I think you could move a good number of those. They get asked about a decent amount, people like them because they're weird. I know I'd take one just to throw in an early 60s Dodge of some kind.

Yeah, these were on the list of things I was wondering if Atlantis had gotten if they were even still around. These kits do have the best grille of all the early 80s Ford truck kits though.

The c4 and c6 are pretty similar in where the transmission cooler lines come from. Once the lines come out of the transmission body they run up the passenger side frame rail to the radiator support then either into the radiator or into their own cooler depending on how the system was designed. C4 C6 AOD

I'm going to change my entry, I had to get another body for the Falcon and doing the body work over again this late isn't appealing to me. I bought some convertible parts off ebay I'm going to combine with a 66 shelby to do a 66 shelby convertible. I'm still deciding if I want a classic or modernish engine, a 5.0 and a 5 speed would be more Cannonball appropriate.

It says it fits the 1/24 scale 64-66 kits Monogram did and Revell still reissues.

Which chassis did you use for the Cutlass? I just got one myself for the same conversion and was going to try the AMT 69 and the Revell 71/72 to see which I liked better.

Yes, we need more 70s cars from all makes. I know the older guys look down on them but it's what us younger folks can afford and they are gaining some popularity.

A member here has a page on Shapeways that sells quick-change rear end kits for the 29-30 frames. http://shpws.me/SXJF

It's a PSA about you're PSA.

Yeah, the Testors lacquers dry really fast. I would only allow that much time for the old enamels. I painted white lightning over white primer, even using the entire can it's very translucent.

I remember this show. I saw it in the early 90s when I first got into modeling. The episode I remember most was detailing a 57 Chevy body and was the first time I had seen bare metal foil.

That looks like there was a raised area over where the cut line is. Once you get it knocked down it should be fine. This is why it's a good idea to block sand the body, especially around body lines and things. There can be weird artifacts from the engraving process.

I agree, the grille piece needs to be black. The trim ring that is silver is molded on the headlight itself.