Fat Brian

I second Steve's coat hanger method. As an added bonus you can hang the body upside down to minimize the chance of something landing on it while it's drying.

Unless the box survives the building process in particularly good shape and I'm looking for an extra box for something they usually go in the trash.

It's the same basic kit, body, interior, and chassis all the same. The pink car has stock parts and the fake fender vents, the black car has all the race stuff.

I crammed a 427 in one but had to shave the spring mounts paper thin and use very tight exhaust manifolds. If you cut the spring mounts out if the inner fenders and switched to a Mustang II style front end more stuff will fit.

Yeah, the 65 or 66 Galaxie kits are about as close as you can get. The 65 chassis is more detailed overall but has the exhaust molded in, the 66 chassis is more basic bit has separate exhaust. I'm leaning toward the 66 chassis for a 68 LTD and dressing it up with some parts box bits.

There's a lot of gray area here. Even with printed parts they are rarely direct replacements for kit parts so there is almost always a degree of fitting required to make the finished product shelf-worthy. I think I fall on JC's side that it's an entirely different skill set but still a creative activity. I know when I built 3d models I put as much time and effort into it as I did a traditional model, the process was just entirely different.

I use a really fresh Xacto blade to slice the bracing off the parts the go back and clean up the little nibs.

Ok, I got it. That's going to look great in my GT350R.

Hey Charles, any ETA on the cross ram SBF?

I only saw the single carb intake in this one and only the cast aluminum valve covers. I might try to pick the decal sheet up though.

I went and busted out the calipers on this because you piqued my curiosity. The Monte roof is about 1/4 inch too narrow and the rear window shape isn't even close. I think a better option is the roof from the AMT 70 Impala. It's only about 1.5 millimeters narrower than the Revell roof and it has the correct C pillar shape. You'll need to cut the rear window frame out of the 66 roof and shorten it and graft it on to the 70 roof. Overall it seems pretty do-able. Here's the 70 Impala for comparison.

I agree, the AMT 67 GT350 kit is easy to get and by far the best choice as a donor. I was just speaking to the commonalities between the 67 and 68 kits because I've been testing stuff to build the best possible 68 GT500KR.

The dimensions of the AMT 67 and 68 are pretty close, the 67 guts go in the 68 easily. The issue is you'll have a 67 nose and 68 taillights. It will also take a bit of work to figure out where to cut the nose off.

Yes, the AMT headlights are taller than the Revell parts. The AMT front fascia also leans back at a steeper angle than the Revell nose. So the lights don't fit without swapping the entire front end. Really, you need to save the AMT lower bumper air dam to keep it a GT so there's some creative cutting needed to make it work.

The TS line is the glossy paints intended for cars, AS is typically armor stuff and is flat or semi gloss. The PS paints are for polycarbonate RC bodies. X is for acrylic brush paints. Those are broad categories and there may be a few oddball in any line.

Just to give you another option, if you've got a steady hand and can work quickly you could try brush painting it with Molotow. If you do it it needs to be the last thing you do, one stray finger and you'll ruin the finish on it.

One of the more recent issues of the Revell W900 semi kit, the flat top not the Aerodyne, has some very Heavy Metal style murals in it.

You could build the Little Red Wagon wheel stander and use the L700 cab with the Louisville race car hauler to build something like this.

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A pebbly surface like that usually means you're spraying from too far away from the body. As the paint particles move through the air they get drier as the paint vehicle evaporates out. If you're too far back from the body the paint gets too dry to flow out correctly so it kind of piles up in little globs. Try moving in a couple inches and see if the paint flows out better.

Very nice, this is one of the few TD kits I like. How much does the chassis of this kit share with the Monogram 78 pace car kits?

I use a liquid glue like Bondene for almost everything. A very few things get red tube glue if I want a bit of working time to get stuff straight.

The "Falcon" body I was using was a cut down Ranchero body with the top and trunk lid from a ruined 63 Falcon body. Nothing was square on it and it still needed a lot of work to get it presentable. I ended up buying an original 60 kit that had about every custom part glued to it so it's going to take some cleanup. I just don't want to rush it so I jumped on the Mustang. These kits are super simple and easy to knock out quickly.

My dad's first car was a Highland Green 68 LTD two door. I'm slowly collecting parts to build it and finally found a place locally that mixes spray cans. No modern green looks right, even the modern counterpart isn't really correct. This thing is beautiful in the sun, I'm going to have to take the final pics outside to really do it justice. They talk about models not taking certain dark colors well and needing to lighten them a bit so this was kind of a test to see how it would look. I have been thinking about a Bullitt car since I got this mixed up but there's so many other Mustang projects I want to do. But then again, I wasn't planning on building this a month ago and here we are.

I got the body painted today, the color is Ford Highland Green. I found a paint shop in town that mixes spray cans and wanted to test the paint before I used it on the intended project.