Fat Brian

I totally respect that. I actually have a Revell cab I'd contribute to the cause, it's got a bit of a stubborn twist to it but should be perfect for getting measurements. As for just the front versus the entire cab I'm not sure. Just front would be cheaper but I don't know if would work for both kits. Hakan might have more input, I don't know if the doors are different or anything else further back.

I was asking Scott to make the grille as well, I might not have been clear enough. I see the difference in the windshield but it doesn't bother me enough to fix it considering what a massive pain it would be. Personally, I've been collecting parts for this build for a long time and have square horns and the modern lights but having them would definitely benefit others if this project gets taken up.

Yeah, I don't really like the late E with the setback front axle, I want an early one. 1984 seems to be the overlap year with some E changes appearing as early as late 83 but being in full production by 85.

Still, doing those few pieces would get us far closer than we are now. If the grille and headlight area was done you could make the cab whatever length you want it. I would rather it be 95% accurate and on my shelf that waiting on 100% and never getting finished.

Since we're talking K100 stuff, how about a full update to the square headlight front end? There are only a few pieces that need to be made and honestly the dual square headlight bezels would be good on their own too. I have measurements for the bezels and might can get some of the K100 headlight area if the one I know of is still there. Here's a picture of the instructions from the Revell kit. By replacing parts 155 & 156 with their square headlight replacements and bezels and the grille and adding the dash you've already made that would get about everything needed.

If your has been sitting for a while a simple hand shaking might not be enough to really get the pigments back. I use a toothpick to get down to the bottom of the jar and really stirr it up, they also make a few different varieties of mechanical paint mixers. If it's still too thin after a good mixing you might need to let it settle again and and then remove some of the clear paint base with a pipette or absorb it with the corner of a paper towel.

Who owns the Testors molds is a good question. The 37/38 custom panel that was recently out as a Lindberg kit is a modification of the Boyd Smoothster kit that Testors did in the 90s. It seems like Round2 at least has some of the 90s Testors tooling that can't be tracked back to Fujimi or Italeri but exactly what isn't clear.

All of these shelves are on casters so I can pull one out and rotate it around to find what I'm after. I just finished my big desk today that sits in the right-most corner of the room and I'm going tovadd one more shelf to give myself a bit more room for expansion.

The YouTube channel Legal Eagle just did a pretty comprehensive video explaining the recent ruling over the Eleanor copyright lawsuit.

Just thought about this one, how about a correct SS center section for the 66 Malibu kit.

One version of that kit or another has been in near constant production for the last 30 or so years, there are plenty of spare parts around. You can find people selling the entire chrome tree on ebay, just be sure it has the parts you're looking for since there are so many different versions available. If you only need a part or two you can post in the Wanted section below, that kit is so common most of us have likely a few parts for it floating around.

The cured resin is a bit brittle for a hinge. I'd rather rob kit parts or make my own from Evergreen or brass rod.

Yeah, the 50 Olds engine is the correct base it's technically a 303 but is externally the same as a 324.

Here's a link to MPCs 1983 catalog https://modelkitreviews.proboards.com/thread/1145/mpc-1983-catalog Here is the 1982 AMT catalog https://modelkitreviews.proboards.com/thread/693/amt-lesney-1982-catalog Thanks to Casey for hosting these.

I agree with Bill about the rear end. Here is a 3d printed version pretty close to what looks to be on the van. http://shpws.me/QzSJ

The MPC Fire Truck would probably be the best starting point for a replica project.

In my experience Super Clean is the mildest stripper to start with for plastic bodies. If you run into something it won't touch my next step is 91% isopropyl alcohol. After that you start getting into stuff that does degrade the plastic like brake fluid.

Yeah, it seems like they just re-run the last issue of the kit even down to old box art. I guess they save money that way.

I believe it was established that Round2 was doing special runs for Ollies a year or two ago so it wouldn't surprise me if Revell wanted in on the action too.

The recent issues of the AMT 49 Ford have had wide white walls and a pair of white wall cheater slicks. I used them on this build.

I have a new Bandit molded in black and yes, the black plastic seems more brittle than the standard white but mine isn't warped like that.

There were a handful of crossflow heads for the 300 made for a joint UPS/Ford project that fell through. They are highly sought after by 300 guys. There's is also a way to cut down LS heads to fit the 300.

Don't get me wrong, I love a tool that does a good job, especially when it's a good value too. The MCG photoetch saws are some of the best money I've ever spent on a modeling tool.

Wow, you're going for the solo record.

No problem, I love no buck tools.