Fat Brian

I did this with a resin Louisville hood I bought off ebay. I opened the box in the living room and "stuck it somewhere safe" until I moved it into my model room. Of course "stick it somewhere safe" translates to "lose immediately". I spent the next two years periodically looking for this hood, opening every one of the hundreds of models in my hobby room just in case it teleported into one of them. One day, after opening every kit box in the room for at least the 5th, time I see a few promo boxes I'd left out of the last few searches. Out of desperation I start opening the promo boxes and stuck in the bed of a 92 F-150 promo I bought for parts is my hood. The promo had come in the mail a few days before the hood and was also in the living room when I was looking for a safe place for it.

Yeah, the extended engine date really increases your build options. What are you planning for a start date?

I'd be in for this, I've been eyeballing a build of the Revell 30 Ford with a 312 and a quick change rear. It seems like it would pass based on the posted rules.

Ok, that's the glue kit, the snap kit has the smaller sleeper. I agree with what the others have posted, you need a selection of glues for different purposes.

I have nerve damage from emergency back surgery in 2014. In my experience it took a few months for things to normalize and then I could start seeing some progress. I'm not saying you'll get back to 100% because I know I didn't but I did improve from those first weeks and months. As much as getting back what function you can is important, finding ways to adapt is equally important. I know less than two months into my ordeal I was still in shock. Stash-guilt is hard sometimes but the models will be there when you're able to work on them again.

Very cool to have the hidden tow setup.

Very nice, those Plymouth kits always fit this build really well.

I remember buying the step side version of the kit in the early 2000s when Walmart was selling three kit packs for 12 or 15 bucks. I got rid of a half dozen not knowing these kits would become hard to find.

And I'm not saying I'm 100% right because this was a bit before my time. There are just some differences that made us question whether they are the same or not. This also doesn't explain where all the short bed stuff went to since that was out way after the monster truck.

Here are comparison pics posted of the two chassis side by side taken by Fabrux. It looked to us that the parts were different enough that they were separate toolings. In the thread where this is posted someone also mentions that the stock long bed was issued once after the monster truck debuted. The short bed chassis was around 8nto the early 2000s as the yellow step side truck.

The monster truck version has a separate chassis plate, the stock one wasn't altered to make it. The body is also unaltered from stock.

Man, they're coming hard for my wallet right now.

I'm very interested to know more about this one, what was found versus what needed to be redone.

No problem, I've mistyped a few things in my day. Yes, the hemi should be fine for the 69 Charger. The Daytona version of the kit comes with both I believe.

The Revell 69 Charger has a nice 440/ 4 barrel engine that's about as close to a 383 as you're going to get. Here's pics of the blocks for comparison. The top is a 383 block, the block ID is on that flat lug to the left of the distributor hole. The bottom is a 440 block, the ID lug is the flat area over the water pump indicated by the green arrow. A little sanding and putty should fix it right up.

I picked up one of these at Hobby Lobby last week and it has the correct interior with the wooden panel along the top. The date on the inside of the body us 8/10/22.

I always try to list out where I got all the extra parts from in case anyone looking wants to use the same part they know where to find it. I also enjoy finding just the right parts to execute my vision of a build. I put a lot of work, and unfortunately money, into rounding up all the various bits and bobs I'm looking for. And I agree, for something so stock appearing there's a lot going on.

It can be a gamble though. They don't get every kit and sometimes you miss stuff if you wait too long to see if they get it.

The Revell 66 GTO and AMT 62 Catalina are much easier kits to find than the 68 Firebird. The GTO has a Tri-power intake and the Catalina has two four barrels so not stock for a GP but either is a cool upgrade.

That is so nice, I wish I could build so cleanly.

I'm calling this one done. This is the red Monogram 79 Mustang kit that passes for an 81 too. I borrowed the chassis plate from from the later 92 convertible kit for the dual exhaust, the engine is from the Monogram pace car version of the 79 kit. I swapped the manual for a parts box C4, four barrel intake is from the MPC 79 pace car kit, the Predator carb is 3d printed, the valve covers are from a Revell 32 Ford, and the triangle air cleaner is from the Moebius 64 Nova. I cut the top off and used the MPC filler panel for the T-tops and made the gaskets from Evergreen. I built the auto shifter in the console then added a cb to the passenger side along with a whip antenna on a vintage style trailer hitch. The wheels are from Fujimi and the tires and decals are from Fireball. I wanted to build this in 1981 style so I lifted the rear and added the cb and antenna. The Predator carb and air cleaner also add to the classic flair. I'm going to shoot some better shots when I get another background printed but I wanted to put something up.

I really don't care who makes a kit. My main criteria after subject matter is level of detail and fit. The older I get the less I'm inclined to fix bad kits, I'll put that effort into two good kits instead.

You're best bet to get a good one would be to find an open one on ebay so you can see the parts or find a seller who is willing to open the kit and inspect it before sending it out.

The Monogram 64 GTO is another chassis option.

Yes, scratchbuilding materials are essential, it makes it so much easier when you have all the shapes you need. I recently bought digital calipers and don't know why I waited so long. Keeping my scratchbuilding symmetrical and checking my build during assembly is much easier now. Photoetch saws make your cuts much cleaner and remove less material than other saws. A panel line scribers have all kinds of uses, they are available from a few sources or you can make your own. I used a piece of a 3mm wooden dowel about as long as an Xacto handle, I drilled a small hole in one end and stuck in a piece of the core wire from a wrapped guitar string.