Miatatom

The job goes easier when you've got the right tool. Some of you might not need something like this but when your hands aren't as steady as they used to be, it makes some accurately applying glue much easier. I read a suggestion here that using insulin syringes was a good way to apply small amounts of glue. I tried that and while it does work well, sometimes the plunger would stick a little and then I'd wind up with more glue than I needed. I gave it a little thought and here's what I came up with. I took a couple of old dzus fasteners and flattened them out. You don't have to use them but I had some already. You can pick them up at a race shop. Guys that race go through them, especially if they race dirt. A small washer was epoxied to one fastener to hold the syringe since the opening in a dzus fastener is too large. A nut was epoxied to the other fastener which serves to hold a fine thread bolt. A couple of small screws and some plastic tubing made the parts that hold it all together. Disassembled. The syringe in placed in the holder. The syringe is ready to be filled. The syringe is loaded and ready. Just hold the device with one hand and screw the bolt in with the other. Took a little time to decide how to make it and put it together but I've already used to once and it works great. Naturally you can't used glue that's too thick in it.

Excellent job! I love the color and the stance is perfect.

Nice work! Love the color! What is it?

Nice work! If the 70 Datsun was a 510, I'd take it any day over the Plymouth. Well, actually I'd take the Plymouth and sell it to buy a 510.

I do too.

Yes, very cool!

Ambroid Pro Weld and sometimes some thick stuff I got at HL that works pretty well.

Beautifully done!

Great info!

Nice job! The wife's favorite color and one of mine too!

Stunning! Love the color!

Beautiful work. Could you give us a link for the tutorial on the leather? It looks very realistic.

Thanks for the info. It makes a lot of sense. I wasn't sure if I had the right size fan, but visually, there never was any sort of fogging of the interior while spraying. That led me to believe that I was in the ballpark. My painting technique is a work in progress but I've recently moved to lacquer paint and really like it. I apply 3 or 4 mist coats and 2 or 3 wet coats. I wait about 5 minutes between mist coats and about 10 between wet coats. . There's never a lot of continuous spraying and the booth stays clear.

Thanks for the feedback, Kyle. I took the time to really study the article in the link you suggested. I've already moved the lights. My booth is all wood with a glass window. Since the biggest safety concern is explosions, eliminating all sources of sparks should remove that hazard. Is there something I'm not taking into account with that reasoning? As for the flexible ducting, I can see that it's very restrictive but I've got to have a system that can be taken apart and stored. I'm going to study that situation more and may be able to come up with something.

Totally agree, this place is great! I have no idea how many threads I have bookmarked but it's a bunch. Probably close to 1000, seriously.

Under ten, yeah, that's too young to be alone.

Beautifully done!

The 100 cfm seems to be working fine. I've painted in it 5 or 6 times so far and the inside stays clear without any sort of foggy condition. In fact, I decided to install a false floor above the exhaust vent in the bottom of the booth. I'm using lacquer paint and I was having problems with the paint drying before it got to the model and felt like I actually had too much flow. Your guideline of 100cfm/sq. ft. would mean I'd need a 1200 cfm fan. Since the enclosure is only 12 cu. ft., that would be a complete air change every 0.6 seconds. That sounds like a lot.

Harbor Freight? They sell some airbrush stuff.

Here's some stuff I've bookmarked http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26588 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=55353

Yes they do. I'm not sure what the material is made from. I have cleaned the seal with lacquer thinner several times and it doesn't seem to cause any degradation. One of them has been in use for over a month and seems to be fine. I'm going to keep an eye on them though.

I don't remember exactly but it was near house ware. They had several sizes. These were the smallest.

Most of my builds will be race cars which shouldn't have a glossy look. I've got some others to build that will be cleared. Which method to choose depends on the look that the builder is trying to achieve.

Doing a little research and found this info: You can apply a coat of clear to seal the masking, any bleed under will be clear and shouldn't affect the base coat or the separation. Applying a coat of the base color over the masking will do something similar, the difference being the bleed under will be the color of the base. This can be especially useful if the finished model doesn't have a clear coat, it "just looks right" not having any clear along the separation line if you aren't going to clearcoat the rest of the car. However, it can be a problem if applying another coat of the base color would make it darker or otherwise shift the color. On certain metallic or candy paints, another coat of the base color would show up nearly as much as the second color bleeding under the masking.