Miatatom

Here's some stuff I've bookmarked http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26588 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=55353

Yes they do. I'm not sure what the material is made from. I have cleaned the seal with lacquer thinner several times and it doesn't seem to cause any degradation. One of them has been in use for over a month and seems to be fine. I'm going to keep an eye on them though.

I don't remember exactly but it was near house ware. They had several sizes. These were the smallest.

Most of my builds will be race cars which shouldn't have a glossy look. I've got some others to build that will be cleared. Which method to choose depends on the look that the builder is trying to achieve.

Doing a little research and found this info: You can apply a coat of clear to seal the masking, any bleed under will be clear and shouldn't affect the base coat or the separation. Applying a coat of the base color over the masking will do something similar, the difference being the bleed under will be the color of the base. This can be especially useful if the finished model doesn't have a clear coat, it "just looks right" not having any clear along the separation line if you aren't going to clearcoat the rest of the car. However, it can be a problem if applying another coat of the base color would make it darker or otherwise shift the color. On certain metallic or candy paints, another coat of the base color would show up nearly as much as the second color bleeding under the masking.

I was watching HGTV earlier and they were doing a two tone paint scheme on a wall. They painted the lighter color, taped it off and applied another coat of the lighter color to seal the edge of the tape and prevent bleed through. Here on the forum, everyone suggests applying some clear to seal the edge. Why use clear or would the HGTV method work as well?

I've been using them for about 6 months and they're fine.

I just ordered some from a vendor on eBay. They were $4.35 per hundred, with free shipping from China.

They're glass.

Right cchapman195, I forgot to mention polishing. I needed something because I'm still learning not to be so heavy handed.

That's what they always say, "I'm going to restore them one day". If they do say anything about selling them, it's always for some exorbitant price.

I've needed a way to handle/hold models while sanding and came up with this. I bought a foam tube at Walmart, about $3. I think they call them noodles, not sure. The holder can be pressed into the inside of the model and works great because it gives something extra to hang on to. Just cut a short section and split it down one side. The split can be used to place increasing thicknesses of material (wood, foam, etc) to hold larger models.

I bought a dozen of these at Walmart for about $9. One 3 oz. can of spray paint will fill the container about 2/3 full. The resealable lid keeps the paint usable. Not sure about long term storage, but I'll find out eventually.

I haven't noticed anyone doing this but, having worked in laboratories, we used plastic squeeze bottles for all sorts of liquids. I bought 2 of these off of eBay for around $6. They are used by tattoo artists. They make dispensing small amounts of lacquer thinner for A/B cleanup a breeze.

Click Control - That's control minus. Control plus makes the display larger.

Same here! I have an ABC next to the exit door. Lots of flammables so it's really a no brainer.

I had used computer fans in another experiment that failed. Not because of the fans though. The reason for a complete closed system was the dust issue. Seemed like there was always some junk in my paint jobs and I was never satisfied with them. I used to work at a nuclear weapons plant and spent many hours working in glove boxes so I just proceeded with that design in mind. I need to find some larger flanges for the front arm ports. The biggest plumbing flange I could find was 5". Makes for some limited movement. I'll find something that'll work. Maybe someone will have a suggestion. That's where I came up with the veterinarian gloves. Someone suggested them and they're ideal. Cheap, fairly durable and thin enough to allow for some feel when air brushing.

Thank you very much for the compliment. I calculated the number of complete air changes per minute which would be 12 cu. ft. / 100 cfm which equals one air change every .12 minutes or one every 7.2 seconds. My first test paint job was using MM lacquer. Got some orange peel so I'll try to get just a little closer or slow down or whatever it takes. Trying again tomorrow. We'll see how it goes.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll post some pics of the whole place in another thread soon. The room is 12' x 24' so I've got plenty of space.

Well, I've finished the glove box/paint booth and thought I'd share what I've done. I was hoping to keep the cost around $100 but that was a pipe dream. It wound up being about $240. The size is 2' deep by 3' wide. I mounted an air filter I had left over from 1:1 work in line with the air regulator. The on/off switch is located next to it. The hose connects through the bottom of the booth on the right side. The air filter is from WM. I mounted it on the top. The exhaust port in the bottom is a plumbing piece as are the flanges I used to mount the gloves to the front. I'm using the gloves that veterinarians use for birthing calves. Nice and thin, but one size fits all so they're loose on my hands. To get them to fit tight, I put a vinyl glove on over each one. The exhaust is 3” all the way. I used 3” I. D./3” O.D. automotive fittings in order to be able to connect and disconnect things quickly. The hose from the booth connects to a 3” O. D. section mounted in the wall. Here's the exhaust fan/power supply and hoses all hooked up on the other side of the wall. I mounted it on an old kitchen chair. The exhaust fan is a 100 CFM bilge pump which is safe for combustible fumes. My brother in law gave me the power supply. He works on computers for a living. The hose goes from the pump to a device I fabricated. It fits under the garage door and will keep the critters out at the bottom (wifes requirement). Again I used some 3” O. D. The whole thing can be connected and ready to paint in less than 5 minutes. No nasty fumes and no respirator needed. I've used it once and there was no junk in the paint job. Now I've just got to learn to paint!

Here's some info: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=30187

Here's some: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=44305 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=54897 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=67799#entry835614 http://modeltech.tripod.com/sldrhdrs.htm http://modeltech.tripod.com/headers2.htm

Here's a couple: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42326

Charcoal only here. Different strokes.

Couldn't find it. Got a link?