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  1. My latest completed project. 41 Willys Gasser. I started with the KS Pittman Revell kit.
  2. Started with a a resin dody from southern motorsports hobby. Scratched built rollcage and used parts form other drag car kits
  3. Hello Everyone! This is my first time on this forum (in fact on any forum) and I want to share with you my latest project. First, I want to introduce myself with some significative episodes of my builder experience. I’m not new in the hobby but I think it’s time for me to jump in the parade since fantastic and inspiring projects (and people) are present on this forum. Like some of the older model car builders I came back to the hobby after several years of absence. I spent my youth building plastic model cars but I left (as many of us) for more important thing like a full time job and less important like weekend partys with friends. The spark came back roughly 10 to 12 years ago when I attend a model car show in Montreal Canada. On the table was displayed a couple of incredibly detailled drag racing cars built by a good fellow named Del Paone (RIP). I was too shy to talk to the guy but I made some search on the internet after the show and found that many detail parts (like photo-etch and nice decals) were available for the hobbyist. In the following year I started the build of my first detailed model, the legendary Pro Stock 72 ‘Cuda Mowtown Missile. It took first place at every show I attended (Quebec and Montreal area) and the desire to do always better has never left me since. Few weeks later, I saw an article in the Scale Car Magazine featuring Sir Augie Hiscano (RIP) using a Sherline Lathe and I knew right away that’s was the thing that I always wanted to do. I bought a new lathe and started making simple parts like aluminum pulleys and perfectly round plastic parts. Couple of years later I bought a Sherline milling column and started making more complexe parts. My last completed project was a 70 Plymouth GTX (1/25 scale using a promo JoHan body) and extensive scratch built plastic parts, aluminum and brass parts including an all aluminum 426 Hemi engine, aluminum rear end, aluminum mag wheels and functional drive shaft to list a few. I spent around 2000 hours on a 3 years span on this build (I’m a very slow builder and doesn’t build much during summer time). I will try to share some pics later but I lost some of the construction photos after a computer crash (during an OS update). I now take more precautions with frequent backup on USB key. I’m a Mopar guy but I do love all American cars from early ’60 to mid ’70 no matter the brand, It was a fantastic era with large variety of nice body lines and engines. My current build is a 1964 Dodge D100 Sweptline Pickup Pro Street. It’s a kind of « what if » project since I never seen one on a race track. I know that this model is loved or hated but for me it’s just a cool truck that bring good memories of my childhood (my uncle had one as a farm truck). This model has never been made in plastic but a cast resin version was available from some caster including Modelhaus. I bought a copy a few years ago before they closed their doors for retirement. I was pretty exited when I got it but I soon realize that the limitations of resin reproduction was not for me. I do love thin walls (more in scale…) and I understand that’s not easy or doable with resin cast. So I decided to make my own version starting with a donor body shell. I bought on eBay a used 1962 Ford F150 unibody (just the body without hood) as starting point. I will start the thread with the body creation and I will add more picture showing the mechanical construction in progress. All the drivetrain will be aluminum and/or brass (hand wheel machining no CNC whatsoever) but some elements will be determined during the construction. I wanted to make it twin turbo but I think that the space under the hood will be too limited since I want to keep the cab as close as possible to the real thing (I spent a lot of time making all nook and cranny as close as possible to the original cab). I must say that I was very inspired by the work done by masters including Tim Boyd, Clay Kemp, Bill Davis (Vintagedragfan) and more recently by the incredible skills of Tim Hoagland (Codi). Please be lenient for my english since I’m from Province of Quebec (french tongue) along with my full time job so I will try to answer ASAP to everyone interested by the project. Hope you enjoy it as much as I have to move forward in this project! The donor truck 62 Ford CustomCab Unibody I cut the box right behind the cab to make the wall for the D100 Add styrene to the corner of the cab and window frame since the D100 is totally different I cut the roof at the top of windshield pillars and sliced the top to move it forward I glued a 0.125’’ strip to extend the top and connect both pieces together. I also glued a 0.020’’ thick strip to create the gutter I glued a 0.125’’ tube to fill the gap and to create the reverse radius for the fenders The wheel opening was relocated and I glued some styrene strips in order to recreate the original shape machined the cowl vent opening in a 0.010’’ brass sheet I test fit the brass sheet on the new plastic piece for the cowl. I was forced to do that in order to modify the bottom corner of the windshield (the Ford have radius but the D100 are square corner) I drawn the front grille on a 0.125’’ plastic sheet and machined the contour using my milling After several hours of filing and sanding I finally got the almost final piece. The grille has mounting tabs like the real one for proper installation on the radiator frame. I also reserved the center opening for the D100 ornament (to be made later) I made the front facia form 0.015’’ styrene strip and 0.250’’ rod for the front lights and 0.125’’ for the flasher bezel Windshield frame done and front fenders 90% done I moved forward by cutting the doors open. I also extended the gutter on the side windows With the windshield done I used a piece of paper to trace the inside contour in order to make the dash. The rough piece is on the lathe in order to engrave the speaker using a 0.010’’ end mill The cab is on the milling in order to engrave the top valance shape. You can also see some of the jamb, step and the anchors for the gas tank behind the seats (I made the detail but the fuel cell will be located in the box) Same operation but different angle of view Final dash with instrument bezel. Aluminum cluster bezel and instrument will be made later Dash with bezel in position but not glued yet Top view of the dash showing the speaker grille, heater vent openings and ash tray Interior door panel made from 0.020’’ styrene. Detail engraved with a panel scriber and bottom stripes made with 0.010’’ strips. I put a piece of plastic in the middle of the door as a support since the door panel is slightly curved and not flat Some job done on the door frame and step (emboss on step are made using 0.040’’ half round strips) You can see the curve on the inside door panel and the side window frame. Side window glass are glued in place and were made from 0.005’’ clear styrene Back window extension and top surround molding (sorry for the blurry picture) Back window in place, you can also see some of the shapes made on the back of the cab (will be hidden at the end but made it for the sake)
  4. Alright, this is kind of a strange question, so feel free to move this post if needed. I’m looking to run a Nitrous system on my truck for next race season. However, I know very little about said power-adder. So, I have a very important question for y’all: anyone know where would I get my Nitrous bottle refilled? A welding/gas shop? Local speed shop? Somewhere else? Not sure how much response I’m gonna get, but thanks in advance.
  5. Is Altered States still in business? Their website is down
  6. Heres my Ford starliner super stock build, small slicks, seat belts, BMF, Nice kit by AMT..
  7. Have been very busy with life in general and less time at the bench but not out of the hubby. Here is what I am working on. It is a replica of the Nostalgia Drag Racing P/S Colt. The owner of the real car Bob Mayerle reach me to make him a model of his race car. So far this is where I am. Using spare parts and aftermarket pieces I think this can be done.
  8. Hello I'm Romell I've built a few models on this forum and I had to depart for a while for personal reasons. But I've decided I'd share what I've been working on. I'm posting pics of where the build stands as of today and I'll be posting build pics to get you caught up as well. Aside from a few 3d printed parts almost everything else was crafted from brass. If youd like to see some of my other builds I believe there's links in my signature. Anyway I hope you enjoy...
  9. Researching traditional 1932 Ford frame modifications I found this reference and thought it might be a good subject car to model. It could be done as it was back in 1954 or as it is today. The story is cool, the pics are cool. https://carpyscaferacers.com/long-lost-32-three-window-found/
  10. Heres a 67 SS Impala Outlaw I just Finished! Used slixx dragster decals, Melody Troxell I think..hope u like her..
  11. One of my favorite drag cars from my era. Has this kit for decades and finally had the "chutzpah" to start it and very rarely finish it. Dis body and chassis mods to get the right stance. hope you can see those in the next set of pictures.
  12. One day I get a massage on my facebook from a guy that saw one of my models of a Butch Leal pro stock that I posted on this forum. He wanted to buy it. I told him that I sold it many years ago. But I said I could build him another one. Well he said I want you to build it but just like my car. I was confuse but after a couple of days I realize that the photos were not from the original car but from a replica that he owns and drives in the Nostalgia Pro Stock series. I was stunt, so I started to find the kit and parts from by part box and this is what I have so far
  13. This is 1977 Firebird funny car that I am in the progress of building. I completed the chassis and am trying to plan how to paint the body. Chassis is Revell funny car chassis with minor adjustments to the rear end and the body is from Competition Resins. The final plan for the car is that I am going to give it to the owner of the car. Thanks for stopping by
  14. This is a simple pro street nova I did. Nothing too crazy, just a simple little model.
  15. One of my other builds I started with a big scratch built turbo. It's gonna be another small tire car with a tube chassis.
  16. Hello all, Im 35 years old from the desert in southern California. I have been building since the age of 8 . Much of my interest is geared toward what most call nostalgia drag racing. Straight axle gassers, front engine fuelers, altereds, with pro streets and pro mod type door cars thrown in too. Over 1/2 of my builds were inspired by my late uncle, many of his models were passed down to me before he lost his life to cancer. I hope that you all enjoy my builds, as few of them are "completed" with detail. I one day intend to give all of them the detail and attention they deserve. Thanks! Nate
  17. 2015 Racers Reunion Championship Model Contest SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 19, 2015 - IRVING TEXAS All models must be based on competition race cars Sprint – Midget – Indy – Jalopy – Modified – Open Wheel Stock Cars – Drag Cars – Rally Cars – Sports Cars, ETC. No Prebuilt Diecast, No Prepainted Kits People’s Choice Award $100 Best of Show Free Registration w/ Model Entry (4 entries max per person) Display only section for non-judged models (2 entries max per person) $10 Entry for Spectators, Judging by MCMA Appointed Judges This contest is part of a Racers Reunion Banquet which is later that night. If you enter a model in the contest your admission for the afternoon (up until 5:00 pm) is free which includes a guest speaker about Bob Nowicke, many tables of racing scrap books and memorabilia to view. If you want to stay after 5:00 pm it is $25 and includes a meal and the feature presentations about Lloyd Ruby and J.C. Agajanian. 1551 Corporate Drive Suite 125 Irving, TX 75038 Set up is 1:00-2:00 pm Doors open to the public at 2:00 pm Awards at 4:30 pm More info at www.RadiusNation.net or email kurtis.kraft@verizon.net Hope you can join us for the 3rd Annual Contest. Bart
  18. Here is my 65 Chevy II Nova, red riding hood gasser nova built from the rat pack nova,
  19. The original pictures are taken by my dad, but I wanted to share them here as well, because I thought they are really cool. So I took pictures of the paper pictures to get them in digital form. So in 1990 my dad was in the USA with a couple of his friends. They visited other places as well, like SEMA Show and Pomona Swap, but this race was really interesting especially because a Finnish Pro Stock Bike racer Veli "Jappe" Malin was racing with his Pro Stock Bike there. A couple of pictures from the pits first... Stock Eliminator Pontiac. Super Comp Camaro driven by Tony Foti. Then the action pics: Stock Eliminator first (Unfortunately only one picture though). I'm not completely sure about the class of the Mustang, but from what I can see I'd say it's a B/SA car, the Chevelle is G/SA. Then Super Stock: GT/FA Chevy Camaro. Can't see the classes, but two more Super Stock Camaros. More to come later... (Tomorrow)
  20. Any help and ref pics for the Nitro Bandit Olds funny car, I can only find a cpl online?
  21. So after a 20 year hiatus I decided to build a couple models seeing they're cheaper than the new turbo I want for my real car. It's the Revel 1990 LX drag car but I'm trying to put my own spin on it. This is my first time trying to scratch build a cage but I can't bring my self to just use the roll bar in the kit seeing in my mind a proper booster, fox body, should be well under 10 seconds in the quarter. I'm borrowing some pieces off a cheap pro street kit I picked up. Hopefully I don't get discouraged and throw it out Cage started, lots of finangling will be needed. I want to do a funny car style cage but may have to settle for an 8:50+. I also cut channels for sub frame conectors, cut the front wheel wells out back to the shock towers (not pictured), and cut out the gas tank and spare tire well. The kit comes with a 302 and 5-speed but my OCD wants a bigger engine and a trans a capable of 1000hp and low 8's so I'm going to try this 351 and automatic. I have a "mock up" motor plate on it. Hopefully I can get this to work with a motor plate and the small under hood area. This will be a lot easier for exhaust but a pain to run a belt with. I have a single turbo which would be easier to mount but I'd have to figure the exhaust out. I've always hated chrome plated parts. To me it's never looked right so I gave these items a bleach bath. Included- B&M shifter, breather tank, sheet metal intake, distributor, fire extinguisher, starer, valve covers, trans pan, Hopefully this turns out. Give me tips, I need them.
  22. Hey fellas vacation time is over and its time to get started on another build. Actually I got started on this one a couple weeks ago I never stoped building once the daytona was done. I'll be fabricating a Reher-Morrison 5.3 nitrous motor from brass and aluminum. As a side note I will be using parts from my buddy Jim Littken of http://www.micronitro.net/ And from Charlie Of http://www.protechmodelparts.com/ and any other source that will make the job easyer. Anyway Sassy and I invite you to come along on another journey as we endevour to build a better model. sassy says Hello...... Ok I started with some brass stock and drew my pattern out for the motor block ends, which were then cut out.... its a good thing I cut out four because my first set cam out loped-sided, sorry I didnt get alot of pics but heres where the engine block is as of now..... Oh and before I forget heres what I built a couple weeks ago. The guys at the DSC have already seen it. Notice my special jig (which is still under construction) it will help me to pump out the chassis for RR Speed. Hope you enjoyed see ya real soon.
  23. any info on the Gun Fighter VI Pro stock car? any ones built here? Need a cpl ref pics, can only find one?
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