Speedfreak Posted February 19, 2016 Author Posted February 19, 2016 Goof Off may work but it also could damage the paint more. I just don't know for sure. Thanks Ray, i think I'm just gonna button this thing up and move on, it's still a nice looking model the way it is. I wanna start a fresh build, thinking about doing a Cobra! I have two Cobra kits; the Monogram Essex Wire, and , the Revell USRRC 427 Cobra limited edition kit, which one would you recommend? I'll post pics of the Mustang after it's finished, should be able to put the red on the new hood tomorrow, or , Saturday.
Kit Basher Posted February 19, 2016 Posted February 19, 2016 Great looking Mustang, Gene. Stay away from the Goof Off. It will remove all the paint and melt the plastic. I found out the hard way!
Speedfreak Posted February 19, 2016 Author Posted February 19, 2016 (edited) Great looking Mustang, Gene. Stay away from the Goof Off. It will remove all the paint and melt the plastic. I found out the hard way!Thanks Hugh, I think I'm about to ready this car for shipment, so , I'll just leave the one side with no livery, (I can't believe I'm saying that!). I like your signature! Edited February 21, 2016 by Speedfreak
cobraman Posted February 19, 2016 Posted February 19, 2016 Thanks Ray, i think I'm just gonna button this thing up and move on, it's still a nice looking model the way it is. I wanna start a fresh build, thinking about doing a Cobra! I have two Cobra kits; the Monogram Essex Wire, and , the Revell USRRC 427 Cobra limited edition kit, which one would you recommend? I'll post pics of the Mustang after it's finished, should be able to put the red on the new hood tomorrow, or , Saturday. Both of the Cobra's you mention build up nice so you can't go wrong either way. I will be on the lookout for your build.
Speedfreak Posted February 20, 2016 Author Posted February 20, 2016 (edited) The new hood is painted and turned out ok, it's not fully cured yet, and , looks much better 1:1 Edited February 26, 2016 by Speedfreak
cobraman Posted February 20, 2016 Posted February 20, 2016 Oh ya ! Looks good. Much better that the white IMO.
Speedfreak Posted February 20, 2016 Author Posted February 20, 2016 (edited) Thanks Ray! It looks much better than the white. What you see is just Tamiya Bright Red (from the can, yes!) over Tamiya Fine white primer, no clear, or , wax. Now, if I could just get the stance like I would like it, lol, not gonna happen at this point in the game, but , I cAN see now where the major points of contention are: The top edges of the rear section of the tub, (what?) that start at the 'B' pillar(?) going back to the storage space needs to be taken down more than I did when I was prepping this car, and , I spent 'hours' working on that tub, and , the surfaces that it mates, (sort of) up to inside the body. And, the other major area of contention is still the way the back/top part of the dash, and , bottom/front of the front glass mate up. That whole area is just messed up, because it's hard to tell exactly what, and , how the botton edge of the glass is resting on. Oh well, tales from the 'Super Boss' Engineering Consortium Edited February 21, 2016 by Speedfreak
Roadrunner Posted February 20, 2016 Posted February 20, 2016 Oh ya ! Looks good. Much better that the white IMO. Oh yes, definitely an improvement.
Speedfreak Posted February 21, 2016 Author Posted February 21, 2016 Oh yes, definitely an improvement. Thanks Kevin! I should have this car finished in a few days at the most. (ya, right)
slusher Posted February 21, 2016 Posted February 21, 2016 Hood looks better then ok Gene, looks great...
afx Posted February 21, 2016 Posted February 21, 2016 (edited) Thanks Hugh, I think I'm about to ready this car for shipment, so , I'll just leave the one side with no livery, (I can't believe I'm saying that!). I like your signature! Livery on one side has worked out pretty well for the Steelers. Edited February 21, 2016 by afx
Speedfreak Posted February 21, 2016 Author Posted February 21, 2016 (edited) Livery on one side has worked out pretty well for the Steelers. Thanks JC, I actually ended up using Novus #1 on that side and then went over it with a damp micro fiber cloth and then dried it. I don't know if this will hurt but I may use a very small amount of alcohol and go over it lightly, I don't know if Novus #1 is like wax, or , just a cleaner. And, I don't know if the alcohol will hurt the Tamiya paint, it hasn't been cleared, so maybe I'll be ok? Edited February 26, 2016 by Speedfreak
Roadrunner Posted February 21, 2016 Posted February 21, 2016 Thanks JC, I actually ended up using Novus #1 on that side and then went over it with a damp micro fiber cloth and then dried it. I don't know if this will hurt but I may use a very small amount of alcohol and go over it lightly, I don't know if Novus #1 is like wax, or , just a cleaner. And, I don't know if the alcohol will hurt the Tamiya paint, it hasn't been cleared, so maybe I'll be ok? If the Tamiya red was acrylic, the alcohol will strip it right off. If it was lacquer, the alcohol might be OK, if it's low percentage.
Speedfreak Posted February 22, 2016 Author Posted February 22, 2016 If the Tamiya red was acrylic, the alcohol will strip it right off. If it was lacquer, the alcohol might be OK, if it's low percentage. It's lacquer Kevin, thanks for the post. It did dull the paint a little, so , I decided to mask that whole side from the back of the door forward, and , repaint. It's really the only thing that was gonna make it right with all that has been done to it. It turned out ok(?) there's one little spot were I got too heavy with the paint, well actually I got too heavy with the second coat period. It's cool here today , (53 degrees when I painted) and the paint flowed a little different, we'll see how it dries. Wow, " Down The Road A Piece" with the AWB Mustang!
Speedfreak Posted February 22, 2016 Author Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) the repaint was of mixed success. Overall 98%? of the area I repainted looks fine. There are some (3) small lines on the fender just back from the headlight round where I had a hard time masking around/under/over the bumper side that curves around. And, this is the worst part () I used 'old' (kind of stiff) 3M blue painters edgeing tape to mask off the large areas and when I removed it, yes, ........oh no! Small places of the drivers side livery came off with it. See, I'm in territory here that I've never been in before,. I've never tried to repaint a 'section' of a car before so this is all new to me, had to start/learn sometime right? At first I thought of putting the car back in it's box, (ohhh it's cold in here!) and waiting, but , this morning I feel like I've been down this road for so long now with this car that I have to finish it somehow. Yes the livery is damaged, but , I've got a freshly painted hood and drivers side front qtr panel. Everything else on the car is in tact and good. How I'm gonna save it has yet to be revealed. Stay tuned, I'll post pics of the damage. Edit: I'm ok, just debating best way to finish this up. Gonna let the paint dry another day probably before i proceed. Edited February 22, 2016 by Speedfreak
Speedfreak Posted February 26, 2016 Author Posted February 26, 2016 (edited) Ok, it's time for the truth to be exposed. Here's a good lesson in the " when to leave well enough alone " annals. And what can happen when you don't It's pretty ugly, so you may want to take the children to another room. First up we have the upper/front fender and then the passenger side livery, or , the other way round:: Edited February 26, 2016 by Speedfreak
cobraman Posted February 26, 2016 Posted February 26, 2016 Been here before. Can you just sand down and reshoot just the entire front fender ?
Speedfreak Posted February 27, 2016 Author Posted February 27, 2016 (edited) Been here before. Can you just sand down and reshoot just the entire front fender ? Pm sentvinceMan, that is so bad it is phenomenal, not sure what I'm gonna do you guys, gotta make it right though. Edited February 27, 2016 by Speedfreak
louie Posted February 27, 2016 Posted February 27, 2016 I just wanted to say that I'm sorry to see what has happened to the mustang. I've been following this one for a while and really have been enjoying it. I don't think that you would ever give up so I have full confidence that you can and will fix it. Thanks. Jeff
Snake45 Posted February 27, 2016 Posted February 27, 2016 Good heavens, what happened here? Is it just in the paint or in something underneath it?Here's a last-ditch solution: Paint some clear or white decal in flat silver, cut it in 3" (scale) strips, and lay it over that damage (after shaving it down) like a fiberglass repair done at the strip with "200 mph tape."
Speedfreak Posted February 27, 2016 Author Posted February 27, 2016 (edited) Good heavens, what happened here? Is it just in the paint or in something underneath it?Here's a last-ditch solution: Paint some clear or white decal in flat silver, cut it in 3" (scale) strips, and lay it over that damage (after shaving it down) like a fiberglass repair done at the strip with "200 mph tape."Hey Richard, you made me laugh. What happened is that I didn't tape that area off properly, (my first repaint of just a 'section' of a car, I did from the rear of the door forward), and , I thought the lines from the tape wouldn't show up. Well, I got the paint on way too heavy, and it pooled/goobed up around the tape edges, so the lines 'really' showed up. The rest of what I painted, which you can't see in the photo looks fine. Just my inexperience. Your idea seems plausible, hmmmmmmmmm. I just wanted to say that I'm sorry to see what has happened to the mustang. I've been following this one for a while and really have been enjoying it. I don't think that you would ever give up so I have full confidence that you can and will fix it. Thanks. Jeff Thanks Jeff, I hope you're right, we'll see.Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys. Edited February 27, 2016 by Speedfreak
crazyrichard Posted February 27, 2016 Posted February 27, 2016 hmmm ...i would ....try to make the whole body look bit used and abused ... meaning leave those lines , lmost looks like a welded in piece .. the decals look like they have been there for ages and are partially off (wich they actually are ) .. maybe make it a bit dirty .. like a haze of dust and filth ... just a tad of small damage here and there ??could be cool .. i mean if you look at the cruty cuda build in on the workbench > gasser crusty ... can be cool as well ..
Speedfreak Posted February 28, 2016 Author Posted February 28, 2016 (edited) Hang in there Gene... Thanks Carl, I'm in there. hmmm ...i would ....try to make the whole body look bit used and abused ... meaning leave those lines , lmost looks like a welded in piece .. the decals look like they have been there for ages and are partially off (wich they actually are ) .. maybe make it a bit dirty .. like a haze of dust and filth ... just a tad of small damage here and there ?? could be cool .. i mean if you look at the cruty cuda build in on the workbench > gasser crusty ... can be cool as well .. Richard, I think your idea is brilliant, but,.....I already restored the decals as best I could by putting new decals over the beatup ones and then a little Tamiya flat white on one of them. Thanks for the suggestion, it's a good one. Here are some before, and , after shots: Man, I've been having all kinds of problems with pics and what order they appear in the post, ahhh! Edited February 28, 2016 by Speedfreak
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