Basic tools

[sheena]

Thanks to everybody I'm keeping up with this thread and gather things as I see them .Could anyone recommend a good range of sandpapers to have on hand and are those sanding sponges okay instead,I don't know why but I prefer those to  regular sandpaper

[Harry P.]

Sanding sponges come in handy for certain things. For example, if you're sanding a large area, like the roof or fender of a model car body, the sponge will form around and follow the curves nicely, where if you used a piece of sandpaper held with your fingers, you might wind up sanding the surface unevenly... even as far as sanding shallow troughs or depressions into the surface if you're not careful... too shallow to see, but visible once a shiny surface (paint) is applied and the reflected light makes the problem obvious. Too late to fix it by then.

I like using the sanding sponges wherever appropriate, I always have a couple laying around. They are not a substitute for sheet-type sandpaper, but a nice (and handy) addition to it. Of course, if you really prefer the sanding sponges to "regular" sandpaper, go ahead and use them exclusively. But I think you'll soon find that regular sandpaper comes in very handy more times than not, and you're going to wind up getting some.

I won't list specific grits, because that's all pretty subjective. But you'll want some coarse stuff for rough work, then some medium grits for general use, some fine grit for, well... finer work... and then some really super-fine stuff for things like sanding your primed body smooth before you lay down the color coats or giving any bodywork you may have done the final smoothing out before primer and paint (after, or course, you use the coarser grits progressively down to the finer grits to get things shaped the way you want them to be).

I like wet-dry sandpaper, because I find that using it wet works better. It doesn't tend to clog up with plastic dust as fast as using it dry... and as a bonus, it keeps the dust down. I "clean" my wet-dry sandpaper by holding it under running water and brushing it with an old toothbrush, then let it dry until needed next time. Same deal with a sanding sponge. Under running water, a few swipes with a toothbrush, squeeze out the water, and there you are. Cleaned up and good to go.

Edited October 17, 2015 by Harry P.

[Harry P.]

BTW... while you're at the local home center looking for those little plastic spring clamps...

Check out the sandpaper aisle. You'll see "combination" packs that have several different grits in one package and is probably cheaper than buying one pack of coarse, one pack of medium, etc.

[martinfan5]

Sanding sponges come in handy for certain things.

Never heard of sanding sponges,  I am guessing you can find them at home improvement stores ?

[Harry P.]

Yes, in the paint/sandpaper aisle. They usually have a different coarseness on each side, and are intended to be used by painters to sand things like baseboards and wooden moldings around door and window openings... the sponge "core" allows them to follow the curves and makes sanding stuff like that easier than sandpaper held by your fingers. But they also work great for model car building! 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-4-5-in-x-2-5-in-x-1-in-Medium-Grit-Sanding-Sponge-3-Sponge-Pack-CP002-3PK-LG/203212461

[martinfan5]

Yes, in the paint/sandpaper aisle. They usually have a different coarseness on each side, and are intended to be used by painters to sand things like baseboards and wooden moldings around door and window openings... the sponge "core" allows them to follow the curves and makes sanding stuff like that easier than sandpaper held by your fingers. But they also work great for model car building! 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-4-5-in-x-2-5-in-x-1-in-Medium-Grit-Sanding-Sponge-3-Sponge-Pack-CP002-3PK-LG/203212461

Duh moment, yes, those,  never thought about using them on bodies like you suggested, but I am now

[fog cutter]

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/fa03442/#.ViLEl_mrT4Y

 

and OP - pick up a pair of fingernail clippers. one large, straight cut, and one conventional curved cut. they come in handy. and some wooden clothespins. carve the tips in different shapes. reverse the spring on a couple for uber-strong clamping jobs.

http://www.stickandtissue.com/yabbfiles/Attachments/Assorted_clothespins.jpg

Edited October 17, 2015 by fog cutter

[gtx6970]

I'll use flat tounge depressers with the self sticking sand paper on it. both easily cut to any size or shape I need and they're cheap

I like the small bladed retractable  Xacto knife / pen  for bare metal foil work , I think it works better going around edges and emblems than th elarger bladed versisons

Like so ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Acto-Retractable-Knife-with-Pocket-Clip-X3209-Xacto-/271969760476?hash=item3f52a934dc:g:AsMAAOSwu4BV34kQ )  Hobby Lobby carries them

But,,,,,My most essential tool anymore is my lighted magnifirer

 

[Miatatom]

Nice tool, Bill but I don't think that pocket clip is a good idea. Knowing me, I'd probably put the thing in my pocket with the blade out.

Edited October 19, 2015 by Miatatom

[Pete J.]

This is a basic(and cheap!) tool. You always need clips and clamps of different kinds. This is one I use on every model I build in some fashion. It is a cloths pin clip. With a little modification the cloths pin becomes a very useful tool and you can buy a hundred of them for a few dollars. You just need to do a little modification. Take the cloths pin apart. Reverse the spring and push the jaw through the spring as shown. Then push the other jaw through as shown. This does two things. It reduces the spring tension on tips so it is much more plastic friendly. It also gives you a very long, thin jaw for holding parts. I use these for gluing, holding parts for painting and a dozen other uses.

[drsnapper55]

This is a basic(and cheap!) tool. You always need clips and clamps of different kinds. This is one I use on every model I build in some fashion. It is a cloths pin clip. With a little modification the cloths pin becomes a very useful tool and you can buy a hundred of them for a few dollars. You just need to do a little modification.

Very cool tip Pete - thanks for posting and details

[Miatatom]

Here's something that I can't work without. I bought two of them and mounted each to a short section of 2 x 6. Makes the whole thing hefty so I doesn't get knocked around easily. Like Pete said with his clothes pin post, you can hold parts for painting gluing, etc. The rubber covered jaws are easy on plastic.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-3-4-quarter-inch-articulated-vacuum-vise-3311.html

[1930fordpickup]

You already have one of the tools that is widely used in this hobby by some of the best builders.  

Being able to ask for help is greatly overlooked. 

Already many good things for you to get. 

Just my two cents worth of a few things not mentioned. Pick up a few of the shoe size plastic boxes that have a good lid on them to store supplies and tool in . Just two or three. Dollar General sells the Sterilite brand that Ilike. 

A pad a paper that you can keep notes in , ideas colors things to do next time and things not to do the next time. 

Just remember you will get better every time you build a few more models. 

Read through the Tips and questions section in your spare time. 

[Skip]

In addition ion to Andy's suggestions for the Sterilite Clear Plastic Shoe Boxes, these are great to place opened "in work" model kits.  I've used these for some time, with the original model box it is possible to lose small parts, with the clear plastic shoe boxes the probability that a small part is going to go missing is much smaller.  Plus it is easy to have multiple models in work, using this method.  Once you begin building up an inventory of the shoe boxes you can then start placing kit bashing projects into them, as you are hunting for needed parts for the project.  You're less likely to "rob" a part for another project if it's in an in work box.  You can also use them to store extra or spare parts.

[B-Ram]

These are the tools that I have used so far building my latest model. Not counting the glue, for me the most important and most expensive tool in the picture is the spruce cutter.

Bill

 

 

[Drake69]

Northern Tool and some hobby shops carry stainless steel dental picks (like those that the dentist grabs for and advances towards your incisors with a maniacal laugh...) in various bends and positions that are great for all sorts of things like manipulating small metal badge scripts from MCG, scoring door and trunk seams to open them up, positioning errant decals (watch the points on the ends of the picks as they can tear into the decal...). They are commonly called "woodworking tools" but make handling tiny items a cinch. Also, pick up one or two small containers of beeswax, commonly used to make your fingers tacky when thumbing through paperwork. Putting a minute amount of tacky wax on the end of your hook/pick allows you to grab and hold those small metal details long enough to position them on your model, and they leave no residue behind.

And don't forget to pick up copious amounts of Silly Putty. Makes masking off areas for painting a breeze.

[Pete J.]

You asked about basic tools. You are moving quickly to Dark Side in this hobby.  Tools are a little like kits.  You can never have too many and there is always a bigger, badder, better tool waiting to do that one great masterpiece.  Here is what is now, after 25 years of building, what I consider my "Basic" tool set. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 28, 2015 by Pete J.

[Tom Geiger]

Since you asked about sandpaper...   I buy regular 3M brand sheets and cut them down to 1" x 1" squares on a cutting board. I used to keep the various grits in envelopes...

But I found this neat little drawer unit at Walmart for less than $10.  The top 4 drawers each hold two different grits of sand paper. The bottom one has Q-tips in one side and flexi sander tapes in the other.  When this picture was taken I had up to 600 grit, but now I believe I have 800 and 1000 in the unmarked drawer.  It sits in the left back corner of my work bench.

I just made cardboard drawer dividers. They're actually t-shaped and fit into the bottom of the drawer.

I save a lot of sandpaper cutting these 1x1 squares. Before that I had sheets that I'd just cut or tear random pieces from as I needed.  Now I just reach into a drawer and grab what I need, when I need it.  I never return used pieces to the drawers.  Pieces that still have life in them sit in an old ashtray on my bench. 

One pack of 3M sandpaper cut up like this lasts years!  And if you don't want to invest in 6-8 packs at once,  I believe 3M has some variety packs.

Edited October 28, 2015 by Tom Geiger

[Mike Kucaba]

You asked about basic tools. You are moving quickly to Dark Side in this hobby.  Tools are a little like kits.  You can never have too many and there is always a bigger, badder, better tool waiting to do that one great masterpiece.  Here is what is now, after 25 years of building, what I consider my "Basic" tool set.

The next time you are in Mesa,AZ Please stop in and organize my tools and supplies!.............

[Pete J.]

Mike, as I mentioned, it took 25 years to get to this point and the top of my desk is still a mess!  Always is and always will be.  That's just how I work.  When it gets too much, I stop and clean the whole thing up and then start over.

[Miatatom]

..... and the top of my desk is still a mess!  Always is and always will be.  That's just how I work.  When it gets too much, I stop and clean the whole thing up and then start over.

I'm just about to that point that the entire room needs a good cleaning!

[charlie8575]

In addition to the several working tools shown above, I recommend patience, a strong intellect, or the willingness to develop one, and an understanding and appreciation for process and order.

Charlie Larkin