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Bare Metal Foil Problems


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I cut  and piece of foil for front window trim; carefully burnish it to the widows trim and with a fresh X-acto blade cut along the window trim frame. However, when I attempt to remove the excess foil it will not lift off. It is tenaciously adhered tot the car body. I try as I might I cannot remove the unburnished trimmed excuse. I have used finger nail, tweezers and even the back edge of he X-acto blade. I assure you I have been extra careful that I did not burnish the excess to the body. In the end I had to wet sand it off..of course this cut through my color coat so I had to mask the entire body and reapply a color coat to roof. This has happen three times with this project. Even though it has been properly stored could the foil be bad I have had it sine 2006. I cannot think of any other reason for this happening. Advice, suggestions or insights are welcomed. I`m about to re-shoot the roof for the third time.

Edited by 69NovaYenko
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Boy, that's a new one to me!

Usually you'll hear complaints about the foil not adhering, not the other way around.

Never had this happen.

Has to be something wrong with the adhesive.

Throw it out & get a new one.

As far as whether or not it's fresh, just buy it from a reputable source.

Someone you know sells plenty of product.

Don't buy it from "Bart" on ebay! :D

 

Steve

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I have BMF that's 17 years old, and still works well. I do keep it in its original envelope, so not sure if that helps. I do have some newer sheets,(5 years old)but trying to finish off the(really old) stuff:P. I burnish it with a Q tip, cut along the trim line, and use a toothpick to get the edge of the excess up, and pull it off. It always works for me:D

 

Cheers,

Lance 

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What kind of paint? Almost sounds as if the paint is reacting to the glue on the BFM.

I'd also ask if the paint was really dry. It almost sounds like the paint hadn't fully dried and was interacting with the BMF adhesive.

Edited by BigTallDad
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I'd also ask if the paint was really dry. It almost sounds like the paint hadn't fully dried and was interacting with the BMF adhesive.

What kind of paint? Almost sounds as if the paint is reacting to the glue on the BFM.

The paint I used was Tru-Color lacquer. They are out of  Phoenix, AZ. are know for their very accurate railroad colors but. However, recently they have ventured into automotive colors and are have a large and growing line of colors. I shot the color early  morning and was attempted foiling later that afternoon.

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I've heard keeping BMF in the refrigerator can help keep it "fresh" longer...any truth to that? I'm about to order some and try it out.

I wouldn't worry a whole lot about refrigerating it.

I've heard the same thing, but unless you're planning on using a little & then putting it away for 3 or 4 years, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Steve

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I wouldn't worry a whole lot about refrigerating it.

I've heard the same thing, but unless you're planning on using a little & then putting it away for 3 or 4 years, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Steve

I have been buying sheets straight from the manufacturer. And I keep it in the original envelope, either standing on its side on a shelf, or hanging from the wall . Never laying flat where something can get layed on it .

 

Might have been just a bit too soon?

 

Steve

Thats my thought,,,,,I don't do any BMF work for days/weeks sometimes months after laying paint down .( in some cases ,years buts that's another story )

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Might have been just a bit too soon?

 

Steve

 

Thats my thought,,,,,I don't do any BMF work for days/weeks sometimes months after laying paint down .( in some cases ,years buts that's another story )

Hummm..I thought lacquer was suppose to be in a couple of hours but, what you are both suggesting certainly cannot be ruled out.

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Hummm..I thought lacquer was suppose to be in a couple of hours but, what you are both suggesting certainly cannot be ruled out.

Lacquers will be dry enough to handle within a few minutes of painting, but they still take time to cure.

One good rule of thumb that I've heard from other members is, if you can no longer smell the paint on the body, it's pretty much cured.

Most times, shortly after putting on the first couple of color coats, I will foil my scripts before applying the final color coat for the "foil under paint" technique, & I have noticed a tendency for the foil to stick much better to the raw, fresh paint.

I never have that problem after clear coats & polishing, & after the paint has cured for a couple of weeks.

 

Steve

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I had nothing but trouble with the "Ultra Bright Chrome" and are going back to the normal stuff. The problem is it 

changes between not stick and stick way to much. Sometimes it stuck so bad i had to chop a q-tip (those of plastic)

and try scribe it off. I will not buy this more of this rubbish. 

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Might have been just a bit too soon?

 

Steve

Steve is right but this is me i wait a week on lacquer before handling it.

I had nothing but trouble with the "Ultra Bright Chrome" and are going back to the normal stuff. The problem is it 

changes between not stick and stick way to much. Sometimes it stuck so bad i had to chop a q-tip (those of plastic)

and try scribe it off. I will not buy this more of this rubbish. 

Ultra bright chrome is vey hard to cut compared to the other finishes and seems a tad thicker.

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