Now I think I'm getting better

[JerseeJerry55]

Hey all,

Now that I've attempted to paint 3 models all with issues. I'm on my 4th the Revell 1970 Boss 429. I chose Model Master Ford Grabber Green. I think I've done the best job of the 4 thus far. Thanks for looking and as always welcome any commentary, 

Jerry

[Xingu]

All you can ask for is to get better with each model you build. Can't wait to see the finished product.

[cobraman]

Looks pretty nice . I have been building models for 50 years and I still mess up paint jobs more often than I care to admit.

[superbike-shaun]

Hey nice work, keep on hammering!

[Roadrunner]

Looks good to me. And I'm the same, three or four in a row that all had issues, but I feel that I'm getting the hang of it now, or at least hope so.

[vamach1]

You may want to paint the front soon so the color matches.

[Dave Ambrose]

Looks like you got a nice, craftsmanlike paint job.

Paint drama is still my biggest source of modeling pain. I started making checklists. That helped a lot, but I still have things go awry for various reasons. It gets better tho. My last couple of builds have been largely paint drama-free.

[Modelbuilder Mark]

Most "flawless" paint jobs you see, were not shot like that. They go on, a little rough at times even, but if you are willing to work through the paint or clear coat using polishing clothes then rub it out, then you get the depth. The only thing I would caution, is that it appears that in some of your sharper edges, you did not knock the mold seem down, so just be careful around those edges, or you could buff through the paint. Otherwise..what you have there is a pretty darn good foundation for a solid end result.

[JerseeJerry55]

Most "flawless" paint jobs you see, were not shot like that. They go on, a little rough at times even, but if you are willing to work through the paint or clear coat using polishing clothes then rub it out, then you get the depth. The only thing I would caution, is that it appears that in some of your sharper edges, you did not knock the mold seem down, so just be careful around those edges, or you could buff through the paint. Otherwise..what you have there is a pretty darn good foundation for a solid end result.

Mark

Thanks can I still sand those edges down with a sanding stick? Also it appears I have some hazing in spots as you can see in the below pictures. What would you suggest I do to get rid of those ? Thanks.

Jerry

[MrBuick]

As someone still fairly new to the hobby, I am constantly worrying about paint...it's definitely the most daunting thing for me. However, lately I've found that if I stop worrying about it and just do it, they are coming out better and better. Are my paint jobs as good as many of the perfect, glass-smooth gloss paint jobs you see around the forum? No, not by a long shot, but they're coming out smooth and how I want (I actually don't care for a really high-gloss finish on classic cars...it's out of place). As for your questions, from my experience, you can still knock the edges down, but you'll probably have to spray another coat if you do. Also, did you use a base/primer coat with this? That last picture you posted, the one where the molding flaw is showing through...I had that issue with my first few paint jobs until I started using primer. I usually shoot about 2-3 total coats of primer (shoot, sand, shoot, sand, repeat until I get full coverage and there is no rough texture). 

[JerseeJerry55]

As someone still fairly new to the hobby, I am constantly worrying about paint...it's definitely the most daunting thing for me. However, lately I've found that if I stop worrying about it and just do it, they are coming out better and better. Are my paint jobs as good as many of the perfect, glass-smooth gloss paint jobs you see around the forum? No, not by a long shot, but they're coming out smooth and how I want (I actually don't care for a really high-gloss finish on classic cars...it's out of place). As for your questions, from my experience, you can still knock the edges down, but you'll probably have to spray another coat if you do. Also, did you use a base/primer coat with this? That last picture you posted, the one where the molding flaw is showing through...I had that issue with my first few paint jobs until I started using primer. I usually shoot about 2-3 total coats of primer (shoot, sand, shoot, sand, repeat until I get full coverage and there is no rough texture). 

Thanks I used Duplicolor Sandable automobile primer. IMHO my biggest concern is the swirl lines on the doors, the dots on the roof near the rear window, and the slight rough patch on the trunk lid as seen in my pictures. When you say knock the edges down where are the edges that you are referring? So to correct the issues should I sand down the areas then  reshoot the primer then reshoot the paint ? Or just sand down the areas then reshoot the paint? Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thanks.

Jerry

[MrObsessive]

Jerry, right below the driver's side rear quarter window is where the mold line is showing through. You may have knocked this down, but mold lines can be stubborn things that like to reappear after you've painted. The mold lines have a built in "memory" in the plastic, and when you sand them down, adding any kind of solvent such as what's in paint can make them show again due to the "memory" of what was once there.

What I've done (and suggested in the past) is to sand down the mold line------especially heavy ones, and after you've sanded the mold lines down, brush over them with some liquid glue such as Tenax. The "hot" solvents in the glue will make the lines reappear, and then when that area is fully dry, sand them down again thus erasing the memory. 

When you paint in this area, the solvents in the paint won't make the mold lines show, because you sanded them away before adding any more types of solvents. 

As far as the "swirl" marks on the doors, it looks as though your primer may have etched the surface of the plastic, and that's what's showing through on your color coats. I take it you used a spray can------this can be OK as far as it goes, but I've found spray cans-----especially the automotive ones to spray too heavily, which can lead to a bit too much paint buildup in any one given spot. This area is where the molds have come together (kinda like a mold line) and where the plastic joined to make that particular spot, you get the swirly marks or circles. I may not have the technical aspect completely correct, but that's what you're seeing there.

One suggestion to ward off such things is to either get your technique down pat where you're not spraying too close and too "hard" on the plastic, or use a "barrier" coat of some sort on the plastic before putting on any primer and paint. 

You've been out of the hobby for awhile, but the plastic today is not the same as it was even 15 years ago. It's softer than it used to be, and it doesn't take well to the harsher paints that are out there. Particularly when I'm doing a lot of bodywork on a model, I more than likely will barrier coat the plastic as I hate nasty surprises when it comes time to paint after all that work.

It's up to you, but you can leave it as is, or strip the paint down and begin again. It's yet another reason I'm a BIG fan of airbrushing. YOU control how much paint and pressure is coming out at any given point, and you also control how much to thin the paint given the color, and type you're using. 

A lot to soak in, but it's just one of those things we've all gone through. In my nearly forty years of building, I can tell you that I learned a lot through simple trial and error. There was no internet for me until maybe 15 years ago when I stumbled on to the message boards. By then I was somewhat established as a "decent" builder, but even today I still run into snags and "oops" that will strike without notice.

Hope this helps you out!

[MrObsessive]

I also want to add Jerry that it's a good idea to wait a bit after primer coats to let them fully gas out. What I mean by this is you want the solvents in the primer coat to be totally dry before adding any more solvents such as when you add your color coats. Some may cringe at this, but I've waited at least a week between primer and then putting on color coats. The rule of thumb is if you can no longer smell the paint coming off the body, it should be dry enough to paint over. 

In your case (I'm taking a stab here) you may have put your paint on too soon, and the lowest layer of primer paint wasn't quite dry enough. You then added more paint (nee solvent) to that area, and then your primer/paint attacked the plastic. 

As far as the dark spot, this might have been a "spit" of paint that came out of the can, and if I'm showing someone how to paint------the rule of thumb is to NEVER start or stop on the body! Start to spray away from the body, and stop after you've passed the body. That way you get as little or no spitting effect of the can (or even airbrush) on the body. You can carefully paint over that area again after you've lightly sanded it out........or just leave it as is.

It's up to you,

[JerseeJerry55]

I also want to add Jerry that it's a good idea to wait a bit after primer coats to let them fully gas out. What I mean by this is you want the solvents in the primer coat to be totally dry before adding any more solvents such as when you add your color coats. Some may cringe at this, but I've waited at least a week between primer and then putting on color coats. The rule of thumb is if you can no longer smell the paint coming off the body, it should be dry enough to paint over. 

In your case (I'm taking a stab here) you may have put your paint on too soon, and the lowest layer of primer paint wasn't quite dry enough. You then added more paint (nee solvent) to that area, and then your primer/paint attacked the plastic. 

As far as the dark spot, this might have been a "spit" of paint that came out of the can, and if I'm showing someone how to paint------the rule of thumb is to NEVER start or stop on the body! Start to spray away from the body, and stop after you've passed the body. That way you get as little or no spitting effect of the can (or even airbrush) on the body. You can carefully paint over that area again after you've lightly sanded it out........or just leave it as is.

It's up to you,

Thanks for the pointers. These 4 should be the test bed for my future builds. The next step after these are built is my 5th kit which I should be receiving any day now. A 1970 Plymouth Superbird. The thing I keep going I've in my mind is the dreaded vinyl top. I want to attempt it again but am hesitant. What I don't understand is the 69 Charger Daytona used a hardtop but the SB all came with vinyl. I guess I'll have to attempt it but will need perseverance luck and will have to read the articles on the Internet. Have to have major confidence on this one. Wish me luck.

[Xingu]

Vinyl top on the Superbird is easy. It already has the top and trim, you just have to paint it. Flat black sprayed from a distance works great.

[MrObsessive]

I want to attempt it again but am hesitant. What I don't understand is the 69 Charger Daytona used a hardtop but the SB all came with vinyl. I guess I'll have to attempt it but will need perseverance luck and will have to read the articles on the Internet. Have to have major confidence on this one. Wish me luck.

There were only 500 of the Daytona Chargers built for '69, so Chrysler took the time to fill in the seam where the "plug" went in to put the back window at a different angle. The Superbird not so much as there were a lot more of those made (1900+) so instead of going through the extra cost and time of filling in the seam, Chrysler simply put a vinyl roof on those to cover it up.

Odd for a car like that, but that's what they did. The NASCAR racers though obviously had no vinyl top, so they went ahead and smooth things out and painted them accordingly.

As Michael said, the vinyl top on the Monogram kit is already molded in------seams and all. The hard part's been done! Just take your time to mask and paint this area, and all should be good.

[landman]

Jerry, Bill's comment  about applying paint too soon is very much to the point. I don't know how many times I did that and got some "crazing" before I learned my lesson. the same with starting to spray away from the body and travelling across andpast to avoid spits. I think about it everytime I get a spit.