Primer for Resin

[Warren D]

I've been using Mr. Resin Primer but recently found out it's no longer available in the US.  I now need to find something else that will take acrylics for a top coat (Tamiya and Pollyscale).  I'd prefer a hobby primer that has fine to very fine pigment, ie, auto primer is too heavy for my tastes.

[yh70]

i been using auto primers for many years..you must do like to sand after u prime..go down to Walmart they will have what u need..

[Warren D]

Much of what I do has fine details that make it almost impossible to sand, therefore auto primer doesn't work for me.

[droogie]

Alclad II grey and white micro filler and primers have very fine pigment and dry to smooth finishes. I have used them as a primer for resin, white metal, and plastic kits without any issues. I use acrylic paints and clears almost exclusively and have not experienced any problems applying them over the Alclad. It is airbrush ready out of the bottle, doesn't require any thinning, and cleans up with lacquer thinner. The Tamiya primers work well also, but the bottled variety require thinning (I haven't tried the rattle cans). I build mainly in the smaller scales and automotive and hardware/big box store primers are non starters for me too (for the same reasons you stated).. These models were primed with Alclad and painted with Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics.

Edited January 6, 2017 by droogie

[Ace-Garageguy]

I don't know what type of "automotive" primers you've already tried and ruled out, but there are products on the market that have many different properties.

While I can understand how the typical "high build" or "scratch filler" primers might be too thick and coarse for your application, there are several other options.

In particular, the SEM line of "self-etching" primers (which are WAY too hot for styrene in most cases, but provide excellent adhesion to resin) have very finely ground pigments, spray coats that you can see through, and flow out very smoothly. 

It comes in black, gray and green, is available at body-shop supply outlets, and is impervious to ANY topcoats.

These are examples of as-sprayed black.

 

[espo]

I just use Tamiya primers on everything. I know it mat cost more but I just don't have any problems so that's what I do.

[Warren D]

Thanks for the ideas!

[Mike Chernecki]

I just use Tamiya primers on everything. I know it mat cost more but I just don't have any problems so that's what I do.

X2

[martinfan5]

I've been using Mr. Resin Primer but recently found out it's no longer available in the US.  I now need to find something else that will take acrylics for a top coat (Tamiya and Pollyscale).  I'd prefer a hobby primer that has fine to very fine pigment, ie, auto primer is too heavy for my tastes.

Actually, it looks like Mr Hobby is no longer doing the Resin Primer,  its not listed on their website.

[Dave Van]

Dupli-color #1699 Sealer gray. Very fine, thin and seals. Been my favorite for 20 years now. 

[Art Anderson]

I've been using Mr. Resin Primer but recently found out it's no longer available in the US.  I now need to find something else that will take acrylics for a top coat (Tamiya and Pollyscale).  I'd prefer a hobby primer that has fine to very fine pigment, ie, auto primer is too heavy for my tastes.

If you are realy worried about paint adhesion, SEM makes an adhesive clear primer for automotive soft trim (think soft bumpers here!).  I used that stuff for years on all parts (thousands I might add) that I cast in resin, then sent off to be plated--that stuff worked like you would not believe.  My standard test was to take a freshly plated ''40 Ford station wagon rear bumper (which I cast due to its having no bumper guards) and twisting it to a pretzel--NEVER once did I have any plating flake off in those tests!

Art

[redneckrigger]

I have been using Mr. Surfacer as a primer. It sprays super smooth, adheres very well, and  spray about anything on it as a top cost. I find I like the 1000 or 1200 the best. I use it on plastic and resin with no difference in performance.