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Posted

I've got the decals on and Micro Sol'ed.  Which lens making material do you prefer?

Thanks,

Dave

Posted

That's a great idea, of course I already finished the interior the other day and installed it in my current build. I'll have to use that idea in my upcoming build.

 

 

 

Posted

My preferred lens maker is either Microsol's Krystal Klear or Zap Formula 550 canopy glue.  Both are water based and go on white and dry clear.  You can also make them dome up just a little so they look like an old style lens.   

Posted

Try one of the UV light setting glues like "Laser Bond".

It works fantastic!

squeeze a little directly from the tube onto your gauge face, make sure there are no bubbles & zap it with the light &, viola! instant lenses.

I used it for my '69 Coronet & it worked better than I could have imagined.

 

Steve

 

DSCN5419

Posted

Elmer's Clear. Also a water-based glue. I just put a drop in and let it self level. 

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I've even put a drop in, let it dry, then add the needle, and put another drop in, just to give it some depth.

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Posted

I too like Elmer's or some similar white glue. If you screw something up or just want to try again, it's easily removed for another try.

Posted

I too like Elmer's or some similar white glue. If you screw something up or just want to try again, it's easily removed for another try.

AMEN! not that I ever screw something up. ;)

Posted

I have used just two different products. #1 Tamiya clear and #2 Future. I find myself using future more and more now. The Future is a little "thinner" and flows a little better. I also use it for head light lenses and tail light lenses also.

Posted

I have used just two different products. #1 Tamiya clear and #2 Future. I find myself using future more and more now. The Future is a little "thinner" and flows a little better. I also use it for head light lenses and tail light lenses also.

But aren't lenses over the gauges supposed to look like they are some distance from the gauge face decal?  The clear coat needs to have some thickness to it.  That is why things like white glue or UV-curable clear resins are often used.

Posted

But aren't lenses over the gauges supposed to look like they are some distance from the gauge face decal?  The clear coat needs to have some thickness to it.  That is why things like white glue or UV-curable clear resins are often used.

Usually the gauges on a models dash has a raised molding into which the decal is set. I'll do any detailing of the surrounding area before I set the decals. After the decals have dried, usually over night, I'll then use which every product to basically fill the gauge face and then allow to dry. The reason I prefer the Future product is that it will tend to dip toward the center of the gauge after drying. This gives the illusion of a curved gauge face. Like the many other products mentioned here it also keeps the decal in place for many years since the decals will often not fully bond to say a chromed surface.      

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