gwolf Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 Lookin' good!When it comes to saving gluebombs, glass and headlights are an issue. Replacing curved glass is tricky.As for body blemishes and glue spots--as long as they aren't on critical trim or details, cleaning that stuff up isn't really much harder than dealing with the mold lines, sink marks, and general wonkiness of brand-new kits! Especially the re-issues of older tooling. And if the blemishes are on critical trim...I build customs, so trim often gets shaved anyway.Looks like you're "going with the flow" on this project. The last mockup looks great; just be careful to get that hood/grille shell lined up so the hood doesn't run uphill. Thanks Chris. This is going to be a beater through and through. Once things start getting glued it'll straighten up. I need to add some material to the firewall so the body sits higher on the rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwolf Posted April 11, 2017 Author Share Posted April 11, 2017 Another quick update: I bought a sheet of scale plywood and cut out a pic of it to make a new floor board and kick panel. For the kick panel, I cut the shape I needed, then for the bend I made a slice, bent it to the correct angle, then filled the slice with Tamiya putty and sanded when dry. I may make another one as a one piece unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 Moving along nicely. These old AMT '32 kits, when they're in bad shape especially, are just like pulling some rusty, tired old junker out of the boneyard and building something cool from stuff other folks see as worthless. It's the original, true spirit of hot-rodding, in miniature. No rules, no lines to have to color inside of, just a canvas to let your imagination run wild on. The last mockup does look good, but as Spex84 and you both mentioned, I'd pull the front of the body up to level with the bottom of the frame rails, just to get that hood line working straighter forward of the cowl. Nice work, fun to watch it come together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwolf Posted April 11, 2017 Author Share Posted April 11, 2017 Moving along nicely. These old AMT '32 kits, when they're in bad shape especially, are just like pulling some rusty, tired old junker out of the boneyard and building something cool from stuff other folks see as worthless. It's the original, true spirit of hot-rodding, in miniature. No rules, no lines to have to color inside of, just a canvas to let your imagination run wild on. The last mockup does look good, but as Spex84 and you both mentioned, I'd pull the front of the body up to level with the bottom of the frame rails, just to get that hood line working straighter forward of the cowl. Nice work, fun to watch it come together. Agreed, Bill; the true spirit of hot-rodding, in miniature. I'll definitely pull the body up to match the hood (nothing was glued yet, so it kept slipping). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwolf Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 Couldn't sleep past 3 AM last night so I worked on the car a little. I made new engine mounts to replace the one's missing from the old mangled AMT frame. The mounts are made from the flat numbered areas on kit sprue and the posts are made from a squared balsa wood dowel that I sanded round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrKerry Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Looking good so far, it's coming along now!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwolf Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 Looking good so far, it's coming along now!!!!!!Thanks Kerry! I need to find a donor engine this weekend for it. I could use that Hemi that came with it... but i don't know what parts that engine is missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Metallic Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Thanks Kerry! I need to find a donor engine this weekend for it. I could use that Hemi that came with it... but i don't know what parts that engine is missing.For the engine, keeping with the theme, you should be able to use any of the engines from the early trophy series kits (40 sedan and coupe, 34 pickup, etc) and the engines should drop right in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrKerry Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Like Craig said, possibly the Buick Nailhead from the 40 Ford would be kool!!!!and your welcome on the kudos to your build, love seeing this stuff!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwolf Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 A quick update: I'm wallpapering the interior panels with scaled down pin-up girl magazines (the on piece door panels and bench seat is pretty boring). I also found these headlights in the parts box and was going to drill some mounting holes into the front of the rails, but discovered that there are already to hole the exact size needed on the crossmember. These are for mounting the one piece fender / running board assembly (I checked on an unbuilt kit) to the frame and are in this case unused. Boom! I love working smarter, not harder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrKerry Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Nice!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwolf Posted April 19, 2017 Author Share Posted April 19, 2017 A little update: I didn't want to use a replacement firewall, but ended up having to; I used an old one from my parts box. I tried a tissue paper technique for the interior, but I'm not sure if I like it or not. the pinup wallpaper and tissue paper upholstery is all held on with Elmer's glue, so it'll come off easy if I choose to do it again. I realized I had a '40 Ford Sedan kit I'd probably never build, and it had two engines, both of which fit; I chose the stock flathead V8. I think it was suggested I find that kit, so thanks to whoever mentioned it. I think flathead V8's of that era were green, but I'll probably use red as that always looks real nice. The new firewall is not perfect, and I don't like that it seems slightly smaller- but, this is a heap and it's ok. Lots of grinding and sanding got it to the height I needed. I used a 1:25 rim to trace a hole, then cut out and sand for the transmission to stick through. Lastly, I got some ruddy brown primer onto the body parts; boy does that ever bring out the bad spots. I'll use the salt technique to rust the body as soon as I pick a paint color. The frame / rails will also get salted, but I'm not currently sure if they'll be painted to match the body or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwolf Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 Here's a big update on my 32 Ford Roadster Gluebomb project: Almost a month ago I posted this image of the project I was about to start: And here's the same project today: This was built with the idea being what I would've done with a rusty beat up 32 Ford as a teenager. Had I been allowed as a teenager to buy a vehicle like this, my father would've insisted on having good new tires, so I used AMT Firestone Deluxe Champion whitewalls (which were put on a Dremel tool and spun on a sheet of sandpaper). Door panels were scribed and filled with black watercolor paint to create panel lines (one of the best tips I learned as a young modeler). The axles, steelies, and Ford Deluxe hubcaps and trim rings come from a parted out AMT 1940 Ford Sedan Delivery kit. To accommodate for the deepness of the rear whitewall slicks, I inserted another steelie from the parts box into the back of the tire, gluing it to the front one. This way the slicks didn't appear too close to the body. The stock Flathead Ford V-8 engine is also from the AMT 1940 Ford Sedan Delivery kit. It's painted dark green, which I believe is correct for that year. The seat was brushed with a mixture of Elmer's Glue and water and a piece of trimmed black tissue paper tucked into place with a soft brush. More than upholstery, it's supposed to represent a thin blanket spread over the seat. Steering wheel is original to the kit, but the cylinder head shifter is from my parts box. The glass for the kit was scratched and broken, so I made a new one using .015" thick clear PVC sheet from midwest products.com. This stuff is great, by the way. The one piece seat / interior door panels were covered in pin-up girl magazine covers, then 1/4" was trimmed out with a hobby knife and nippers to allow for the body to channel over the frame properly. The one piece seat / interior didn't sit perfectly inside the body, but I can live with it. A new wooden floor was made using a thin plywood sheet from the craft store (the original kit had been built without that part). Door handles were shaved off with a hobby blade, then drilled out using a Dremel tool. The ill-fitting rumble seat / trunk lid was left as is and in my opinion, part of the charm of the original build. I used several techniques to create the rust, including the salt method, using both Kosher salt and regular table salt. The frame was left rusty and unpainted, as I'd seen this in a hot rod magazine and liked the way it looked. The parts box firewall was heavily trimmed to accommodate the channel was also left rusty and unpainted. So right now we're at about 95% done. Taillights will be added, along with exhaust manifolds and a rear license plate. A little detail work on the chrome windshield, too. The near complete 32 Ford Roadster with a pile of it's original parts, funk, scraps, and caulking /glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1930fordpickup Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 Looks much better after your work on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwolf Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 Looks much better after your work on it. Thanks Andy, much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 Cool little car. Looks like she's had a hard life, but with the clean engine and new rubber, she'll be making a complete recovery someday...or at least get driven. Nice work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelbuilder Mark Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 Really nice. Doc you use pastels on the seat after the tissue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwolf Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 Really nice. Doc you use pastels on the seat after the tissue? Thnks Mark! Nope, I just paint not he Elmer's onto the seat, then push the tissue into place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CabDriver Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 Oh wow! What a cool build! I love how it's turned out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell C Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 Was skeptical how this particular save would work out or whether it would be worth the trouble, but it turned out quite fine after all. Good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwolf Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 Oh wow! What a cool build! I love how it's turned out!Thanks James! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwolf Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 Was skeptical how this particular save would work out or whether it would be worth the trouble, but it turned out quite fine after all. Good job!Thanks Russell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.