Okay, I moved the party and there's no voting, but there's likes, the rest basically stays the same, come up with one idea for a model kit and work it out

[Luc Janssens]

I'm in if somebody pays me $120 per hour it takes to do a proposal. These days, I don't work for free unless I REALLY have "skin in the game".

Last time i came up with a gold-plated sure-fire winner (that netted the client $50k for 3 months of work...MY work) I didn't even get a thank-you.   

No pain no gain Bill.

BTW Gregg isn't paying you for your input here, so why you don't share your expertise with fellow modelers and come up with something which I'm sure will be fantastic.

I dare ya, ha!

Serious,  Bill...give it a try....

Thanks

Luc

[charlie8575]

I'm in. And with the cost of tooling and design rapidly falling, I can really s-t-r-e-t-c-h that money out. With some care and a little careful planning, I might even be able to actually work up two or three kits and keep it within budget.

Don't think I won't try.

Charlie Larkin

[Ace-Garageguy]

No pain no gain Bill.

BTW Gregg isn't paying you for your input here, so why you don't share your expertise with fellow modelers and come up with something which I'm sure will be fantastic.

I dare ya, ha!

Serious,  Bill...give it a try....

Thanks

Luc

Offering help to fellow modelers is different, in my mind, from doing a professional-level proposal for free to benefit any company that might choose to use it, with no compensation to the originator of the proposal. Attaboys and warm fuzzies don't pay the rent. I'm seeing more and more frequently online solicitations from "communities" for free work, most often so far in graphic design and art, and I think it's a disturbing trend.

I also find it interesting that several years ago, I was criticizing all the "expert" opinions that maintained it was impossible to design and build kits here in the good ol' USA due to cost constraints...which I knew at the time was bull (from my involvement with other manufactured products), that the capability was still here, that then-cost-competitive solutions could be found and implemented, and that costs here would be coming in line with overseas sourcing.

I was shouted down, sometimes irately and rudely, with a lot of "if you know so much, why don't you go to the model companies and tell them all what they're doing wrong". Ring a bell? I kinda lost interest at that point. Prior to that, I would have been interested in working on ways to implement US development and production. But when everyone just wants to argue, and nobody wants to listen or think outside the box, it just gets tiring.

Funny...here it is years later and all of a sudden, apparently magically, the costs stateside are coming in line with overseas sourcing.

Not to say "I told you so"...but...I told you so.  

Still, you have an intriguing project going on here, and I will be absolutely fascinated to see what kind of material comes out of this approach. I wish you luck, seriously.

And you know...there are one or two kits that I still think would be slam-dunks. Hmmmmm.... 

 

 

[afx]

That still doesnt answer my question,   you are looking for more than a list, ok, great, but,  again,  what is your goal , what are you trying to accomplish ? what is the reason behind it?

Curious why this question has not been answered.  

What benefit does the person that presents an idea receive? 

How will the ideas be used?  

Will the ideas be used or is this just a thought exercise?

[Luc Janssens]

Curious why this question has not been answered.  

What benefit does the person that presents an idea receive? 

How will the ideas be used?  

Will the ideas be used or is this just a thought exercise?

 

You look at it as it were a job, it isn't, this a challenge, a show case of ideas to let the world know what we as car modelers want and how.

Will something come from it, great ideas always get picked up, and also think ballot stuffing isn't that much of an issue on FB, don't see anyone creating extra profiles for such purpose, Ha!

It's good that you are concerned and maybe a bit cautious, before committing to something which will be time consuming, when researching and writing your proposal.

 

Please give it a try.

 

Thanks

 

Luc Janssens

 

[Mr. Metallic]

Guys, I'm pretty sure this is all in fun. If it takes you more than a hour to type up this proposal they you're probably doing it wrong.

While Luc does do this on the off chance that a manufacturer may be looking and intrigued by the proposals, I view it really more as an educational exercise for all of us to see a little slice of what actually goes into the process.

[waynehulsey]

Craig, you have a good point there. But I have to agree with Bill in 'what's in it for' besides an intellectual exercise. And in my advancing age will have to say in a lot of ways I don't care anymore. I've got enough stuff for another lifetime even if I never bought another kit. I about at the point if somebody walked up with money in hand for a reasonable offer for 90% of my stuff, I say back the truck up to the door. Maybe a bit fatalistic and cynical, but that's the way it is.

[Luc Janssens]

I've got enough stuff for another lifetime even if I never bought another kit. I about at the point if somebody walked up with money in hand for a reasonable offer for 90% of my stuff, I say back the truck up to the door. Maybe a bit fatalistic and cynical, but that's the way it is.

Wayne,

There have been times, I felt the same, maybe it is because we gave up, fighting for something we would really like, that is... voice your opinion on an until now, overlooked subject...

Am I trying to get you on board?

Youbetcha!

Thanks

Luc Janssens

[Tom Geiger]

Man! What a bunch of grumpy old men!  

This is an interesting exercise,  for the fun and camaraderie.... the same reasons we build model cars! 

[niteowl7710]

The problem with this exercise as I see it is that 95% of modelers don't know, and probably don't care how their models get to them, just so long as they get there.  It might be even higher on FB where I see people routinely asking model companies to reissue kits that already reissued, or asking the WRONG company to reissue a kit.

The 5% that can straddle the fence and see how things need to work - rather than as Tom put it "Run the company out of business ideas" - already have the ear of whatever manufacturer tickles our fancy and whisper ideas and proposals on a regular basis.

For the people that want to play around with this idea, the key thing to remember when plotting out your "Hupmobile 5000" idea is that the vehicle in question has to have 3-5 viable tooling variations.  Think Revell tooling up a new '70 Charger that can be Dom's Charger from F&F and a '70 R/T with a few insert changes and parts additions.  Or how Moebius' F-Series line can span from 1964 to 1979 based on the running gear/frame/suspension with relatively minimal tooling for bodies and interior variables.  Because in order for something to be successful "Factory Stock, Gasser, DRAG, KUSTOM 4n1" isn't the answer. 

[waynehulsey]

Yeah, angry young man turns into grumpy old man. I build models for the research and technical challenges which gives me some personal satisfaction, not sure If I would call it 'fun'.

Other then the Mack B which I think has had proposals done on it before, there's nothing I'm really interested in that would be economical viable. As Frank Zappa used to say "No Commercial Potential".

[Ace-Garageguy]

The problem with this exercise as I see it is that 95% of modelers don't know, and probably don't care how their models get to them, just so long as they get there.  It might be even higher on FB where I see people routinely asking model companies to reissue kits that already reissued, or asking the WRONG company to reissue a kit.

And to elaborate on that theme, the concept of "tribal knowledge" at it relates to online communities is largely a fallacy. There are generally a very few people who actually know what they're talking about, and a ton of folks who parrot wrong information, because either they lack the first hand experience but wanna-be cool guys, or they don't bother seeking out primary sources. Usually both. Just go looking for youtube videos to do something on your car. Mostly incomplete or just flat incorrect information copied from somebody else...but you'd have to be very knowledgeable in the field yourself to realize that. There ARE some real wizards out there, but you have to know quite a lot to be able to sort the BSers from the real-deals.

Yeah, angry young man turns into grumpy old man. I build models for the research and technical challenges which gives me some personal satisfaction, not sure If I would call it 'fun'.

Amen.

[waynehulsey]

Luc, I know you've done similar exercises before. What were the results? The only proposal I've seen (that I remember) is the sample one. Is there a place to see the finished ones complied and were the results presented to the manufacturers? If they were, what were the results, if any? I'm making the assumption that the final goal is to presented information to the manufacturers in an attempt to influence future manufacturing projects.  

[Luc Janssens]

Hello Wayne,

At the time (2001-2004) I ran it on the Hobby Heaven board, one of my closest friend worked at a model company, and printed it all out, so the R&D team could asses it.

The format was created by me, with much help from a retired model kit designer, a Kat, who also is a close friend.

I will list a couple of projects which made it as a model kit, but I can't acknowledge if the 250K question was the instigator or confirmed those subjects were good picks.

Also at the time the automotive hobby market (in the USA) was very much dictated by Walmart, versus now, where there's much more a balance between hobby enthusiasts and the "weekend modeler" (WM), and while the ROI is still largely carried by the latter, enthusiasts get more say in the picking and also help making the content of subject much more appealing...which I'm sure the WM will appreciate.

As said I will post some of the past proposals later this weekend...uh...make that sometimes next week, I'm just back from a classic car show in Brasschaat....

 

Luc

Edited May 7, 2017 by Luc Janssens
Time is of the essence ;)

[stitchdup]

Is there a set format this would have to be done in? I have an idea

[tim boyd]

I've been reading the commentary here and wanted to comment.  

I think Luc is to be commended for his efforts to inform the model car building community on some of the considerations kit manufacturers must address in deciding which topics to commit to scale models. 

The key takeaway from Luc's project?  Yes, it is a ton of work to put together a viable model kit topic proposal. 

About giving away your work for free?  Yes, I struggle with that one as well.  

I've been going through my model car files archive this last week in week in preparation for a model car book project I was commissioned to write and photograph (it will be coming out about this time next year).   In going through this stuff, I've been surprisingly reminded about how often I was contacted by the model companies for "advice" on future kit topics and my feedback on their ideas during the last two decades.   And believe it or not, a surprising number of those ideas have eventually become reality.  Was I paid for any of this?  Not a single dime.  (The only model project I've been paid for since the mid to late 1970's work I did for AMT was a project for Revell to assemble and document the issues out of the first test shots of the Revell Model A project several years ago.)   Now that I am retired, I could use the extra money that would come from my currently unpaid "consulting" work for Revell, Round 2, and Moebius.  But you know what?  Given the economics of the model car kit business these days, it ain't gonna happen.  ( I know the model companies also have others they contact for this type of feedback, and while I don't know the individual arrangements, I suspect that they went unpaid for ideas as well..) 

So are we better off sharing our ideas and thoughts "for free" and having the possibility of an actual kit result in the years to come?  Or not making the effort and never seeing a kit of our idea?    That's a decision each of us must make ourselves, and I have no issue with those who decide it's not worth the effort.  After all, our first priority here is to build and enjoy model car kits, not put together business proposals....right? 

Still, I really, really encourage those of you who haven't yet read Luc's project posting on FB to read it and digest it.  It will give you a much better idea of why certain kit topics actually get produced, while others somehow never seem to see the light of the day.

TIM   

 

 

Edited May 6, 2017 by tim boyd

[Luc Janssens]

Luc, I know you've done similar exercises before. What were the results? The only proposal I've seen (that I remember) is the sample one.

Wayne, I'm gonna post those which made it as a model kit....did the 250K Question made it happen, dunno, your guess is as good as mine....

Here's the first one, a proposal made by Tom Mooty back in 2001

87-'93 Ford Mustang LX ( by Tom M.)

Actually I am torn between two subjects and if the scenario were real I would probably build models of each and clinic them before investing the money. My top two at this time are the’70 GTO and the ’87-’93 Mustang LX notch. I suspect the Mustang would “clinic” better than the Goat, so I will assume for the purpose of this exercise that the Mustang is my choice. Therefore, my choice is:  1) Modern muscle over classic muscle, and I picked the LX for its appeal to the younger set as well as to adult modellers. Also, I think it is a subject that lends itself to several drastically different building options such as police interceptor and Pro-Street/Pro-Touring.  2) My target audience is the 12-40 year old modeller of moderate skill. This subject matter has some chance for distribution through the generic-Mart channels so I need to keep my retail price under $10.00 and my parts count under 120. No fiddly fits or complexity just for complexity’s sake.  3) Absolutely. At least two sets of wheels/tires, a factory stock set of ten-slot alloys and a big-N-little set of Drag-Lites and appropriate rubber. I see the three biggest niches for the initial release as rep-stock, street machine/drag, 
and police interceptor. Those wheel/tire combinations will satisfy all three markets. I also want to include a Vortech supercharger set-up and a platform-style interior that allows inclusion of an optional generic 6-point cage and rear-seat delete.  4) Later versions could include a dedicated police cruiser (maybe a pre-decorated one in generic black and white) and a Saleen. Further down the road could be a modified reissue with the hatch body if the platform interior was properly designed to accommodate this option in the future with minimal revisions.  5) I think a photo from one of the Mustang shootouts would look killer on the box top, preferably two coupes at the 30’ area of the track, front wheels in the air. A stock-appearing notch with a “VORTECH” windshield decal could be photo-shopped into the background, parked with people watching the race. Side panels would have photos of the actual kit’s building options.  After the Finance Dept. reviewed my tooling bill and told me to cut some features, I would grudgingly axe the 6-point cage and consider making the big-N-littles from styrene instead of buying a new tire mold. I might consider making the decal sheet smaller, also. Omit the generic police shields and 911 decals, and consider dropping some of the speed equipment decals as well

[Luc Janssens]

The following proposal was made in 2002, and was announced to be kitted a few weeks ago.

1965 Ford F-100 (by Bob Core and Will S.)

1) what subject would you kit, and why? 1965 Ford F-100 (short wide box). Last of the old pickup platforms that hasn't been kitted in the last 20 years.(well, there's the '57 thru '60 F-100 and it would work as well).  

2) Set your target audience, decide on skill level, parts breakdown and overall design. The core (NPI) model hobbyists would buy it; the Wally-World crowd likes old pickup trucks; the rod/cruiser crowd also digs them (lowered with Aspen / Volare front ends). Skill 2, part count and engineering on par with the Revell '64/'65 Chevy pickup kits. Single version kit as well.  

3) Do you want to include optional parts? name them, and why? No optional parts for the truck itself, but maybe a few accessories to put in the back like crates or yard tools, Throw in some bush bars and a rifle rack. Heck, even a Remington Pump Shotgun for the rack. The kinds of things someone would have put in the back of a new pickup in 1965. Maybe a circa 1965 Quarter Midget (simple, though!) and loading ramps to pay homage to the go-cart included in the old AMT annuals.

4) Possible alternative versions for the tooling. After the initial run, blow out a really well detailed 4 WD setup to put underneath it. The whole 9 yards. Axle, X-fer Case, shafts,  white wagon style wheels with off road meats. This kit could become the Opel Blitz of half tons. short and long bed versions, with a custom flareside and lowered suspension, as well as a rep stock long bed. Kit-bash to your heart's content! (Pro-Street, In-the-weeds Street Machine, '60s custom, Bonneville push truck.)

5) How do you want the packaging? (box art, the packaging of the parts etc..) See number three. 

[Luc Janssens]

Another one from 2002

03 Ford Focus SVT (by Yoda)

1) what subject would you kit, and why?'03 Ford Focus SVT; "Tuners" are hot now, and with the factories involved we may be looking at a new horsepower race. I'll bet on being in on the ground floor...

2) Set your target audience, decide on skill level, parts breakdown and overall design. My target market....Wally's purchasing agent!  Seriously, why not an old-fashioned kit of a modern subject? Simple, one-piece chassis with metal axles, but with opening hood and engine like the old AMTs (no Hole In The Block though- isn't FWD great?) Clear lenses for all lights, everything you'll see on the built will be well-detailed but the overall kit will be simple. Molded in (non-bleeding) color, ages 10 and up. Engine and chassis molded in black.

3) Do you want to include optional parts? name them, and why? "Custom" version #1 would be the Euro ST120, complete w/RHD dash. I think those headlights, grille and bumper will show up on a lot of custom Foci in the US, and it'll also be a hedge in case Ford gives our Focus a similar restyle. I'd include all the usual tuner parts- fresh air intake, big exhaust, extra wheels, choice of 2 body kits, but unlike R-M's Integra I'd make the stock wheels the correct size and throw in the extra tires. And the decal sheet will be huge!

4) Possible alternative versions for the tooling. Alternate versions- how about a wagon? Or a ZX5-that might be doable with inserts alone. Then there's the Focus RS....

5) How do you want the packaging? (box art, the packaging of the parts etc..) Packaging- Illustrated "cover", with sides showing a (well) built kit.

6) Over-budget issues: Cuts- only one body kit, no RHD dash (but I'd keep the other Euro stuff for the above given reasons), one set of tires if I really MUST, but then I'd make the custom wheels the same size as stock.  

'03 Ford Focus ZX3 (by John K. Dezan)

1) what subject would you kit, and why?  I'd kit the Ford Focus ZX3. It follows the current Revell kit trend of "Hot Hatches" and the 1:1 car is popular with the younger generation that likes to "tune" their cars. This is a growth area and the model companies have been slow to catch on so there's plenty of room for growth in this area.  

2) Set your target audience, decide on skill level, parts breakdown and overall design. Target audience is the late teens-early 20 some things that are drawn the "Hot Hatch" segment. These are the people we need to draw into the model car hobby for our future success. They've got to have kits available of what they consider cool. Skill level 2 with the target being the recent Revell Acura Integra in parts count.  The parts should be engineered with as few mold lines as possible. If you can't eliminate them, than place them where an inexperienced modeler isn't likely to notice them or when they can be easily removed. The body should be molded as cleanly and evenly as possible. The less work (clean up of mold lines and sink holes) the target audience has to do the better  Clear parts should be molded evenly perhaps with full side windows just to be different.  Chrome isn't a big part of the Focus so it should be kept to a minimum - head and tail light buckets, side view and rear view mirrors reflectors and possibly a set of wheels.  

3) Do you want to include optional parts? name them, and why? Optional parts should include a set of aftermarket tires and wheels. Perhaps a set of Enkei or Motegi wheels with some low profile rubber that would typically be seen on a day 2 Focus. A K&N FIPK under the hood would be nice as would an optional ground effects package. There are more parts and ideas but the first idea has to sell before we'll get into those. If we offer three sets of wheels then there should be three sets of tires too. The decal sheet should feature the logos of the current aftermarket car parts suppliers - Borla, Pioneer, Recaro etc. versus Champion and the ones that the older generation can identify with. A set of heavily tinted windows could also be included as most "tuned" hot hatches have their windows tinted.  

4) Possible alternative versions for the tooling. Alternate versions include the Focus SVT and a full on "Tuner" version possibly with a tie-in with an aftermarket supplier like Wings West. Alternately, the Wings West Focus Avenger could be included as the optional bodywork in the original ZX3 kit. These versions should be released as soon as financially possible. Although the "Tuner"/"Hot Hatch" segment is hot right now, we can't say when Ford will restyle the Focus. This body style will continue to be popular for some time after Ford restyles that car but that isn't likely to last forever.  

5) How do you want the packaging? (box art, the packaging of the parts etc..) Box art should feature a photo of the actual car on the top. However, if we were to do the Wings West car, then it should be on the top. Alternate versions can be featured on the other sections of the box. These should be built up models showing the other ways that you can build the kit. All parts should be bagged.  The stock ZX3 in bright yellow would make for a striking box art car. The Wings West Focus is totally outrageous and should it be featured on the box top it should be as a drawing with the car smoking it's front tires from a stop.  

6) Over-budget issues: Over budget? Ditch the aftermarket stuff . Modelers are a inventive sort who could and would buy Integra kits to scavenge parts out of to customize their Focus (Foki?). We can always put them into the SVT version.  John

[Luc Janssens]

68-'72 Chevy Nova by John K. Dezan

1) what subject would you kit, and why? I propose a brand new tool of the '68-'72 Chevy Nova. Why you ask? AMT's tool is ancient and those separate fenders are giving me headaches! If  they're causing me problems, can you imagine the trouble they could give to young people just starting out? Now. The Nova was offered in several basic versions all of which could be easily offered from this one tool. AFAIK, the only real difference between the various years is the seat patterns. Which would I start with? A '70 Yenko Deuce. Some of them had fenders lovers and all of them had the hood mounted tach which means a total of three year specific parts aside from the interior. Then there's the engine which would have to have all the proper brackets and etc. Decals must be support whatever version is chosen. A Deuce isn't a Deuce without it's stripes after all.

2) Set your target audience, decide on skill level, parts breakdown and overall design. Target audience would be anyone who can or would like to put a kit together. In other words, skill level 2 with a parts count of 120-150 parts. Mold lines should be placed where they can be easily  removed(edges of the parts) and I'd like to see the sprue moldings for the wheels not on the edges of the outside rim. AMT did this one their “95 Ram pickups and I applaud them for doing so.

3) Do you want to include optional parts? name them, and why? Oh boy! Optional parts. The optional parts would depend on just which variant of the car that's done. 
There were three different hoods available on the model interesting Novas - The base hood, the SS hood and the "Stinger" hood. Engines are another possibility. It all depends on which car is chosen to start with. 327, 396, 427 and the '70 LT1 were all available from either the factory or the supercar tuners like Baldwin Motion, Yenko and Harrel. Photo etch for the various scripts would be real nice but it would probably add to much to the price of the kit. Model Car Garage to the rescue!

4) Are there alternative versions possible from that tool? Plenty of alternate versions are possible from this one tool as I stated earlier. It can be offered as a mild '68 327 to a '68 Harrel/Gibb 427 to a '69 SS396 to a Yenko or BM '69 427. Tochange our intrepid Deuce into a '69 Yenko 427 would require new seats from and rear for the interior and a new engine which Revell already has the tooling for from their excellent '68/'69 Corvettes although they would have to give us a proper air cleaner as neither the tri-power nor the L88 style would be correct for this version of the engine. The '69 BM 427 could then be made simply by changing the hood from the base hood to the "Stinger" style. Yet another '69 could be made in the form of a SS396. Change the hood to the SS version and voila! A '68 Gibb/Harrel 427 is virtually identical to the '69 BM 427 except for the interior.

5) How do you want the packaging? (box art, the packaging of the parts etc..)</font></b> Box art should show a nicely restored version of whatever car is in the box. I have no complaints with how Revell is laying out the sprues so I'd leave that up to people who know more than I.

6) The bean counters went all over your little project and it seems the kit you're proposing slightly exceeds the budget, luckily you are in the planning stadium, so what do you loose, and why? My plan is very tightly focused so I don't see any parts except for the optional photo etch that I don't see how any thing else could be left out without compromising the kit. The adult enthusiast will buy the kit to do many more things with especially if he can get support from the aftermarket like the photo-etch scripts. For example. The Canadian Acadian was basically a "Northern" Nova and could be built from any of the basic kits. 

[Luc Janssens]

1987-'93 Ford Mustang LX Sedan by John K. Dezan

1) what subject would you kit, and why? This one hit me last night while watching TV. I'd kit the '87-'93 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 sedan SSP a.k.a. police package car.  This car is still popular with muscle car enthusiasts even though it's been gone for 10 years.  It's also the Ford that chased Porsche's for a living.

2) Set your target audience, decide on skill level, parts breakdown and overall design. Target audience is the muscle car enthusiast, Ford fan, Mustang person and the police car/light commercial builder.  That presents a wide swath of skill levels so I'd doing along the lines of the Lindberg '97 Crown Victoria.  A snap kit with better than average engraving but it would have to have an engine under the hood which Revell has done with it's snap Vipers and the Caprice/Impala.  The kit would have to have all the appropriate police equipment for the agency offered and most Mustangs didn't have  a lightbar so that's a few less parts than the average police car kit.

3) Do you want to include optional parts? name them, and why? I can't think of any.

4) Are there alternative versions possible from that tool? Alternates?  You betcha!  The car could easily be offered as a civilian  LX 5.0 simply by leaving out the police gear and then you could go after  the muscle car guys by offering alternate wheels & tires along with some  aftermarket parts like a Borla exhaust and or a K&N FIPK. 

5) How do you want the packaging? (box art, the packaging of the parts etc..) A CHP mustang at speed on a Cali. speedway chasing a Porsche like it's  supposed to do.  

6) The bean counters went all over your little project and it seems the kit you're proposing slightly exceeds the budget, luckily you are in the planning stadium, so what do you loose, and why? I suppose that we could loose the police goodies and simply offer it as  a civilian LX 5.0.  The model aftermarket has all the stuff that's need  to turn it into a police car. John

[Luc Janssens]

1968-'72 Ford F-150 by Talk Show Mercenary

1) what subject would you kit, and why? 1968-72 Ford F-150 shortbed fleetside 4x4 pickup. These trucks are one of my favorite Ford truck body styles, yet model kits representing them are sadly lacking from the shelves! I would elect to do the shortbed 4x4 to make this model rather unique, and because that's the way I'd want a 1:1 example to be configured!  

2) Set your target audience, decide on skill level, parts breakdown and overall design. The target audience on this kit would be wide ranging. Everyone from pickup modelers, to 4x4 and off road enthusiasts, commercial modelers, Ford nuts, and anyone looking for a late 60s/early 70s tow vehicle to haul around their favorite 1/25 scale race car, boat, or whatever! Kit design would dictate a detailed four wheel drive chassis and suspension, and a detailed 300 cubic inch inline six with manual transmission. Not that a V8 wouldn't be cool, but including the beloved 300 Ford six banger in this kit would guarantee sales to even more modelers who wish to rob this popular powerplant for other modeling projects! A nice rendition of the tough Ford engine would include power steering pump detail, separate oil pan, oil filter fuel pump, manifolds, carb, air cleaner and starter castings to make the mill worth the wait to eager hobbyists! The body would include a bed formed much like the modern AMT pickups have been, being a whole casting minus tailgate and tail lights, which would be separate pieces. The interior would feature hanging brake and clutch pedals, and a separate gas pedal to mount on the floor, rather than a 'drawing' of the pedal cast into the carpet! A stock bench seat and big steering wheel would also be included, as would a column mounted manual shifter, and a floor mounted transfer case shifter. The truck would sit at stock height and would include stock wheels with all terain tires. Underhood detail would include radiator, horn, master cylinder, heater box, wiper motor, and steering shaft/box castings, as well as upper and lower radiator hoses and plastic heater hoses.  

3) Do you want to include optional parts? name them, and why? I'd like to include a slew of optional goodies in this particular kit. The popular off road options, such as raised suspension pieces, aftermarket wheels, bigger tires, push bar, off road lights, CB radio and antenna, roll bar, gas can, spare tire, CJ style hood scoop, exhaust header, four barrel intake manifold and carburetor, mud flaps and tool box. Such items would allow for several building options, and would help to sell this kit to a more diverse crowd.  

4) Are there alternative versions possible from that tool? A two wheel drive version, as well as stepside and longbed variants could easily be added to the line-up by adding different bed, frame and suspension castings to the existing tool.  

5) How do you want the packaging? (box art, the packaging of the parts etc..) This box would be slightly oversized to accommodate all those optional parts, and to allow the attractive box art illustrations to grab the buyer's eye! The front of the box should show a painting of a 1:1 F-150 4x4 in an off road setting that harkens back to the early 70s, and photos on the sides of the box should show built-up prototype models with underhood and chassis views included. Parts would be packaged in clear plastic bags with detailed instructions and a large decal sheet with early 70s style bumper stickers and other decals to give modelers a chance to build a retro 4x4!  

6) The bean counters went all over your little project and it seems the kit you're proposing slightly exceeds the budget, luckily you are in the planning stadium, so what do you loose, and why? I'd lose SLEEP...trying to decide what to cut! I suppose I'd sooner whack some of the optional parts and maybe the vintage looking decals, but I wouldn't cut corners on the detail of the chassis, engine, body or interior!

 

[Luc Janssens]

1970 Plymouth 'Cuda Coupe by Viper Dave

1) what subject would you kit, and why? I would like to see a correct 70 Cuda coupe.  It would be a 3-n-1 or 4-n-1.kit. The Cuda was Chryslers first attempt at a real pony car.  They had the Barracuda before but is was a warmed over Valiant.  It was also the top of the Muscle car era.  You could get everything from the 6 cyl to the 6 Pac and then the HEMI.  Anyone who was raised in that time of automotive history  remembers the Hemi. The 71 Cuda has been out for a long time but the 70 was really the best one to do.  I will have to say I am a little bias because of being able to work on  and drive the Dan Gurney 
25Trans am Cuda.  The AAR Kit that was out was a joke.  Nothing looked right on that kit.  I think it is time for an ADULT kit for the serious builder.

2) Set your target audience, decide on skill level, parts breakdown and overall design. This kit would be a level 3 kit for adults.  It would be for the serious  builder and could be built several different ways.     a) The stock Hemi Cuda coupe.   4 speed, Rally wheels, Hockey stripes and Shaker hood 2 Stock AAR Cuda.    340 4 speed  correct stripes with the correct spacing of the strobes.  Correct different front and rear tires. c) Dan Gurneys #48 AAR Cuda Trans am racer.  Minilites, racing seat, roll cage, and the engine breather system d) Drag racing version.  Either the Hemi or 340 engine could be used.   The Kit would be done with the interior build on the chassis with Side  panels, firewall and seats separate. The parts would be designed so that other versions could be done later and  the parts that needed to be changed would be on the same tree.

3) Do you want to include optional parts? name them, and why? Optional parts would just be those to make the 4 versions.

4) Are there alternative versions possible from that tool? Later versions like a convertible and Gran Coupe could be offered.

5) How do you want the packaging? (box art, the packaging of the parts etc..) The box top would show a different version on both ends  on one side.   The box top would show the versions of the real cars.   Chrome and clear  parts would be in clear plastic bags and the tires and decals would be  packaged separate too.

6) The bean counters went all over your little project and it seems the kit you're proposing slightly exceeds the budget, luckily you are in the planning stadium, so what do you loose, and why? If it went over budget then the drag racing version would be dropped and  later put in the revised versions.Final impression.   This kit would be priced around the $20 range and would be aimed at the Adult modeler and be marketed that way.  The instructions would have pics of real cars like some I have seen before. Thank you  Viper Dave

 

[Luc Janssens]

Not sure on this one.....cuz dunno much about Hot Rods, you be the Judge

1929 Ford Roadsterby Darin "Ashvillemodeler"

1) what subject would you kit, and why? 1929 Ford roadster. This is a very popular street rod subject, and the current AMT issue cannot be built into a modern street rod with out extensive modifications and extra parts  

2) Set your target audience, decide on skill level, parts breakdown and overall design. This would be marketed as a 1:25 scale skill level two kit. It would be very detailed but easy to build. It would be made with the floor pan separate from the frames and the interior would have separate seats, and side panels. The roadster specific parts would all be on the same tree as to make it easier to change body styles in later issues. The fenders would be separate from the body. A traditional street rod suspension. Tubular dropped axle, and a chrome Halibrand quick change rear end. All stock trim would be included along with some billet accessories This would be a street rod only model. the overall parts count wouldn’ t be higher than the current Revell rat rod but would be of higher quality, and IMHO more desirable  

3) Do you want to include optional parts? name them, and why? The engine in the kit would be a cobra style small block Ford with Webber carbs, because there isn’ t a modern version of that power plant in any current kits. (just about any other induction system is available in scale so kit bashing different set ups would be easy.) you would have a choice of either a  4 speed manual or a modern ford automatic tranny. There would be an optional ’ 32 ford frame, designed with cross braces that would allow the same exhaust and accessory placement as the 29 frame. There would be an optional independent rear suspension (chrome plated) that would be stand alone, meaning that it could be built separately on its own cross member and dropped into the frame. Not only would that make it easier to install in the kit but would also allow it to be used on other models with out rendering the donor kit un-buildable. There would be three sets of wheels and tires. One set of well done Kelsey-Hayes wire wheels with photo-etched wires, with big and little 50 style rubber. There would also be a set of “Lil’  John Buttera Style” Champ 500’ s with BF Goodrich comp T/As. Third there would be a set of modern Billets with low profile 17 & 18 inch tires. Also included in the kit would be two optional grill shells a track nose and deuce grill. There would be a second set of head lights similar to the ones on the Doane Spencer deuce. There would be three different hood sides, stock, custom louvered and smooth.  

4) Are there alternative versions possible from that tool? Well lets see....29 woody. A sedan, a sedan delivery, a cabriolet, phaeton, four door sedan , pickup, roadster pickup, a phantom B-400 just to name a few. Not to mention someone could take the original kit and build it at least ten different ways.  1. track roadster  2. rat rod  3. Lil John butteras silver roadster  4. a 29 on duece rails  5. a full fendered resto rod  6. a modern high tech low boy  7. a 50’ s style highboy  8. an 80’ s style billet rod  9. a lakes modified  10. 60’ s style full fendered rod  

5) How do you want the packaging? (box art, the packaging of the parts etc..) the glass and the chrome would be packaged separately and away from the other parts. The wheels and tires would be packaged separately Tamiya style  the box art would be spectacular with art work on the front commissioned by Tom Fritz. The ends of the box would be photo’ s of the assembled model on one side pane there would be a photo gallery of the different options and on the other side there would be a description of the contents and an actual size side view of the model (like MPC used to do)  When and only when you have an answer to all these questions, try to solve this one ;^)  

6) The bean counters went all over your little project and it seems the kit you're proposing slightly exceeds the budget, luckily you are in the planning stadium, so what do you loose, and why? After crying whining and pitching a fit...I would loose the photo-etched pieces but leave the parts designed in such a way that it would be easy to convert back later. And send the art to Bob at “model car garage” and if I absolutely had to I’ d give up the optional tranny. 

[Luc Janssens]

1965 Mercury Comet Cyclone, by Jeff Corey  

Chassis- Platform style uni-body chassis with separate suspension and exhaust parts.  Drivetrain-289 K-code Super Cyclone 4bbl equipt'd small block Ford and optional Cobra style B/FX webers. Optional engine would be a 427 Cammer for an all out match race early funny car.  Interior- Would be factory stock buckets w/ console, separate door panels and dash. Perhaps a basic roll bar hoop set-up for the option racin' build version.Body-The Cyclone body style was a very clean design that lacked alot of extra stainless or molding trim, this would make it a BMF'rs dream, plus would keep the chrome tree parts cost down to a minimum with only front and rear bumpers and a few assorted other parts done in bright chrome.  The hood would be searate with the racy twin snorkel openings in the leading edge. Red styrene lenses for the taillights. A small PE fret with Cyclone scripts and flags and grill trim would be nice if affordable in the mix but if not then the body molded versions would suffice.  Wheels & Tires- A set of snap in whitewalls and also an insert in black for the black wall look, period correct bias ply polyester cord tires and a set of cheater slicks for the racing version.  Wheels would be the cool simulated chrome reverse caps the Cyclones used with open lug nut holes that a plate of lug nuts would attach from the back side to give the effect just like the real car used. A set of Cragar S/S or American Racing Torque Thrusts would give it some nice street or strip presence for contender look.  Decals- Some under hood decals for the "Cyclone 289", and a dash gauge insert. Some Rotunda Ford parts service items like battery, etc would be welcome.  General- This would be a nice kit to do along the lines of the new kits comin' from Polar Lights of the GTO and '65 Coronet and would tie into that era of muscle car very nice. A 2n1 with a skill level 3 if the PE was included but if the costs run too high then a drop to level two with the appropriate deletion of building versions and extra parts.  
Packaging would be in a sturdy box, not donut boxes please! Full color shot and and alternative drag version photo on one of the end’ s. Car will have to be red for eye catchin' appeal to the consumer.  Instruction sheet features well done graphic drawings with color specs.  If deletions need to be made to make the budget, I would drop the Cammer engine, slicks, the PE fret. Mold the hood shut and go with a basic curbside with an separate engine plate like an AMT promo used for the underside.  And in closing, if there is anyway that this budget can include the services Of John Mueller to make it all happen and get it right on in the look and proportions that is a must! If his work on the new PL GTO & Coronet are any indication of his new vision, I'd want him in on this one as well!