Phildaupho Posted May 22, 2017 Posted May 22, 2017 (edited) My next project is a replica of the Jerry Titus Team Shelby-Terlingua 1967 Mustang Notch-back Trans-Am racecar. I decided to build this model for a number of reasons. - It was on my list of previously started projects, which I made a resolution to complete before starting something new. - I long ago decided to build a grid of early Trans-Am car and have collected the kits and parts to build about sixteen models but so far have only completed two. - The first weekend of July I was planning to attend the 50th Anniversary at Pacific Raceways Kent Washington of the final race of the ’67 Trans-Am Series at which Jerry Titus crashed this car in practice. He had to borrow a car for the race. Mustang beat Cougar to the Championship and Titus was the top driver. - Much to my surprise back in ‘67, my father traded his beige and boring ’62 Ford Galaxie 500 4-door sedan for a brand new lime green ’67 Mustang Notchback 289 2-barrel automatic which when I rarely got to drive it I removed the grill ornament and installed baby Moons. I have always been attracted to the second generation Mustang Notchbacks. HISTORY – Shelby American built 26 1967 Group II Notchback Mustangs for the Trans-Am Series. In terms of suspension, steering and brakes they essentially were very similar to the 1965 Shelby GT350R’s. THE MODEL - I taped together my progress so far to take to a model club meeting so I could not resist posting. My camera got ripped off recently so please excuse the quality of the attached photos. BODY - I started with the very good AMT ’67 Mustang GT Fastback kit. I converted the body to a notchback a number of years ago. It was my second notchback conversion. I previously built a replica of my nephew’s ’68 over twenty years ago. The conversion entails grafting on the roof and trunk from the AMT ’66 Mustang Coupe. Some additional plastic and putty is required around the rear window and at the trailing edge of the trunk to approximate the ’67 Mustang characteristics. In front I removed the grill to be replaced with mesh. The license plate area was opened up and the bumper mount arrangement was added. INTERIOR – The rear seat was removed and filled. The floor was smoothed. ENGINE – The rules allowed two 4-barrel carbs. I fabricated the manifold and used carbs from Revell ’32 Ford kits which also provided the exhaust manifolds. CHASSIS – The front spindles were raised. The inner sides of the wheel tubs were cut, bent inwards and filled for the wider tires. The rear spring mounts were cut down and the forward end of the springs now attach to the “frame rails” to provide clearance for wider tires. WHEELS & TIRES – The American Racing wheel came from the Revell C3 Corvette racecar kits as are the Goodyear Bluestreak Sportscar Special tires. The wheel backs are from the Revell ’32 3-W with hubs ground off. Wheels were drilled to fit directly on axles/spindles. PAINT – Shelby referred to the body color as “Gawd awful yellow”. I will use Testor’s light yellow enamel and semi-gloss black DECALS – Will be those produced years ago by Fred Cady Edited October 23, 2017 by Phildaupho
Xingu Posted May 22, 2017 Posted May 22, 2017 I will be following along. This one is on my long list of models to build.
Dave Van Posted May 22, 2017 Posted May 22, 2017 Good to see you recessing the rear window....a mod most miss. Owning a 68 notch Mustang.....it stands out to me.
250 Testa Rossa Posted May 23, 2017 Posted May 23, 2017 Are you going to add the Replicas & Miniatures Shelby race wheels to this one?
Phildaupho Posted May 23, 2017 Author Posted May 23, 2017 Are you going to add the Replicas & Miniatures Shelby race wheels to this one? I have used the R&M Shelby wheels on a previous build and really liked them but I am going with what I have although the spokes will be painted and centers detailed.
250 Testa Rossa Posted May 23, 2017 Posted May 23, 2017 I have used the R&M Shelby wheels on a previous build and really liked them but I am going with what I have although the spokes will be painted and centers detailed.What build did you use them on? I have a set for my Monogram GT350R.
espo Posted May 23, 2017 Posted May 23, 2017 Going to enjoy watching this build. I really enjoyed the Trans Am series years ago. In '69 and '70 I worked for Union Oil Company and one of my duties was to help at Riverside Raceway whenever there were races. I worked at the service station in the pits and got to see many of these cars up close, I should of had my camera.
Phildaupho Posted May 23, 2017 Author Posted May 23, 2017 What build did you use them on? I have a set for my Monogram GT350R. They will be perfect on a GT350R. I used them on a 1/24 R/M 65 Mustang convertible that I made into a notchback A-Sedan race car
Toni L. Posted May 23, 2017 Posted May 23, 2017 Interesting, very interesting. I will be following this one. I´ve got similar project.
Phildaupho Posted May 23, 2017 Author Posted May 23, 2017 Interesting, very interesting. I will be following this one. I´ve got similar project. Yours is coming along very well. Did you do the notchback conversion or is it resin?
mk11 Posted May 24, 2017 Posted May 24, 2017 Looks like a great start! Something that may help the realism of the front end would be the revell '68 headlights; amt scaled theirs too small. mike
om617 Posted May 24, 2017 Posted May 24, 2017 Cool project. The Trans Am series had some nice eyecandy for racecar enthusiasts.
Toni L. Posted May 24, 2017 Posted May 24, 2017 (edited) Yours is coming along very well. Did you do the notchback conversion or is it resin? Not resin body, same bodys put together as yours. Edited May 24, 2017 by Toni L.
vamach1 Posted May 24, 2017 Posted May 24, 2017 (edited) Seems to be a trend going on here. I need to do the rear window modification. Edited August 17, 2017 by vamach1 rrr
Phildaupho Posted May 26, 2017 Author Posted May 26, 2017 Not resin body, same bodys put together as yours. You did a fantastic job replicating the back window area and trim above taillight panel. It also looks like you enlarged the headlight openings. The mesh you have in the grill is very realistic.
Phildaupho Posted May 26, 2017 Author Posted May 26, 2017 Seems to be a trend going on here. It need to do the rear window modification.Coming a long nicely. We are both lucky to have that great set of decals. In the engine compartment I removed the windshield washer bag and trimmed off the top of the battery mount platform.
Phildaupho Posted June 17, 2017 Author Posted June 17, 2017 I still have not bought a new camera to replace the one stolen so I dug out an old one to give it a try. It works OK but I miss the improvements the stolen camera had. MORE HISTORY – The rules for the Trans-Am Series evolved and changed over the six of the first era of the series. For the first two years the rules were closely based on the FIA Appendix J for Group 2 Touring Cars but Trans-Am cars were never required to have full interiors except for door panels, dash top and basic dash structure. The headliner and complete floor covering eventually were removed although Shelby customer cars were delivered with headliners. The only seat was usually just the racing bucket for the driver, although I have spotted a passenger seat in a photo from an early ’67 race. In 1967 a roll bar was required although full cages were recommended. Jerry Titus raced two Mustangs during the 1967 Series and crashed both. The earlier car appears to have had only a single hoop roll bar as the front part of the roof got crushed in the crash. This car initially raced as a white car before later being painted yellow. The second Mustang, which was the first Trans-Am car to be acid dipped, had a roll cage which protected the front of the roof when it was crashed. According to the rulebook, batteries were required to be mounted in their original position but my research indicates they were relocated to the trunk of the '67's as they were in the GT350Rs I have decided to build the earlier car which was the second one built by Shelby of the 26 total. Like the real car, it will be first painted Wimbledon White and not have a full roll cage. Modifications since previous update - Added extra detail where rear bumper would be mounted. Going to revise cover for stock fuel filler - Separated engine compartment from body to facilitate separate painting but first drilled for hood pin location - Separated front sub-frame from chassis again to facilitate separate painting - Removed fuel tank also to facilitate separate painting. Widened rear wheel wells by cutting inner vertical section and pulling inwards. Also had to relocate forward end of springs to give enough clearance for wide tires. Cut holes for over-rider traction bars - Interior – smoothed floor, fabricated panels where rear seat no longer is. Removed details from dash to make ready for racing instruments
vamach1 Posted June 17, 2017 Posted June 17, 2017 Thanks for listings all the mods needed to make a T/A version.
superbike-shaun Posted June 24, 2017 Posted June 24, 2017 Hey very nice and detailed planning here,, one thing,are the pedals going to remain as they are??? to my eye they are bulky,,.thank you
Phildaupho Posted June 30, 2017 Author Posted June 30, 2017 Hey very nice and detailed planning here,, one thing,are the pedals going to remain as they are??? to my eye they are bulky,,.thank youThanks Guys - Yes I noticed the bulkiness of the pedals in the photo. Even though they will be hard to see in the completed model, I likely will modify them. I have pretty much finished with the other necessary modifications and am now getting parts ready for painting. I just got a new camera so hope to have an update in the near future.
mod3l Lover Posted July 1, 2017 Posted July 1, 2017 They used to run the Trans-Am series atRoad America here where I live. That wasone of my favorite race weekends! Nice job on this Mustang build!! David S.
swede70 Posted July 22, 2017 Posted July 22, 2017 Neat project - thanks for sharing. I'm doing stuff in 1:18th along much the same lines and would be happy to exchanges notes and information should you wish. Mike K.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now