Dennis Lacy Posted July 27, 2017 Author Posted July 27, 2017 (edited) UPDATE! Did some work out back today. Started by installing a rear spring from an AMT '29 Roadster then added some perch and shackle detail from a Revell '29 Pickup / '31 Sedan front axle. At a glance this will look better than if the spring was just stuck on there and also makes up for the width difference between the spring and axle. Hosted on Fotki I also Z'd the back of the frame 1/8th" to maintain the mock up stance. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki And a mock up with the body installed. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Plenty more to do yet. Comments welcome! Edited July 27, 2017 by Dennis Lacy
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted July 27, 2017 Posted July 27, 2017 Ride height is looking better! Go man go!!! Gettin' me itching to get back to the bench. -RRR
Dennis Lacy Posted July 28, 2017 Author Posted July 28, 2017 UPDATE! Today I did some more work on the rear axle. Made a new torque tube from 1/8th" Evergreen tube then cut down and fit the radius rods from a Revell '40 Ford rear axle. Now I just need to pick out and mount some shocks. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Turned my attention to setting up the steering. Tweaked a Revell '40 Ford steering box and inserted a .042" pin into the side of it which passes through the frame. On the other side is a pitman arm from Revell's '29 Pickup / '31 Sedan kits. The drag link is made from a piece of .042" rod with ends transplanted onto it from the drag link in the old Monogram '32 Roadster and Beach Boys '32 3-Window. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki A couple of overall chassis shots to show how it's all coming together. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Up front I found a pair of early tube shocks which are in the AMT '29 Roadster base kit. As they come they're pretty rough. Huge parting lines and they're not very round. After a good amount of clean up they look decent. I installed pins into the bottoms that fit into the axles existing mounts. I just need to make some upper mounts now. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki And a couple of overall shots with all of the new parts mocked up. The split front wishbones, the steering linkage and the rear radius rods all hanging below the frame now really help visually fill the "air gap" between the frame and ground. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Any yet, still lots more to do. Comments welcome!
DrKerry Posted July 28, 2017 Posted July 28, 2017 Oh YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Lookin' awesome Dennis!!!!!!!!!!
MeatMan Posted July 28, 2017 Posted July 28, 2017 This thread is hilarious!I love your fab work Dennis! That front engine mount is simple, yet awesome! Keep 'er comin'!
Kit Karson Posted July 28, 2017 Posted July 28, 2017 And, we're off to the races! You've never ceased to amaze!! Excellent craftsmanship! Steering is a work of art, Brother! -KK
Dennis Lacy Posted July 28, 2017 Author Posted July 28, 2017 I'm just over here gluing a bunch of stuff together...
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted July 28, 2017 Posted July 28, 2017 Wow, at this rate you'll have this Under Glass by Sunday evening. What's next??? -RRR
Dennis Lacy Posted September 7, 2017 Author Posted September 7, 2017 (edited) UPDATE! Been a while since I've spent any time at the workbench but had an afternoon to get at it on Labor Day. Started out by doing some body tweaks. Out back I fixed the wheel wells by adding the missing strips of material across the bottom (which is made this way to fit the fenders) because real Model A body wells come down even with the bottom of the body. The 3 reinforcement ribs are in the correct place but AMT made them recessed when they should be raised to the outside. Easy fix as I shaped some strips of .042" rod to fit into them which filled them and made them correctly raised at the same time. Hosted on Fotki I added some taillights. Now, a dedicated lakes racer wouldn't require them but the William's Bros. inspiration roadster had them because they flat-towed the car to events. There was actually a long wire harness that would reach from their tow vehicle to the taillights. The lights are from several of Revell's '32 Ford's but as they come they are really thick so I sanded them down to about half their original thickness for a more realistic appearance. Taillight placement varied from roadster to roadster with same cases having the lights mounted to each far edge of the rear body panel so I decided to do it that was despite not being a huge fan of it. Hosted on Fotki I installed the firewall and like the William's Bros. car then removed virtually all of it leaving just the perimeter to locate the hood and radiator support rods. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki A couple of weeks ago I was rummaging through an AMT '53 Ford truck kit for some other reason and found the headers for its optional Desoto Hemi had a great vintage look and would also be a perfect fit for the Red Ram in the roadster so I set them aside and they are now mounted. I really didn't like that there's no lifter valley cover detail on this engine and after some digging I found that the piece from the Oldsmobile engine in the Ed Roth Beatnik Bandit fit nice and while not totally accurate looks a heck of a lot better than nothing. I also mocked up both banks of injectors so I could get a look at the full engine. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Here's how the car looks with the mocked up engine and the firewall band in place. Tight fit but it does clear. Hosted on Fotki Inside I got the basic firewall shape roughed-in and fit. It only took two tries! Still a lot to do in here but making this part and making it fit exact was the hard part. Hosted on Fotki And some full mock ups. Here you can see that I smoothed the parting line on the cowl, filled the door handle holes, cleaned up the hood and carved the parting lines into it to separate the tops from the sides and finally properly fit a new '32 radiator shell as the one before was a butchered mock up piece. Still a lot more to do but I'm happy! Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Edited September 7, 2017 by Dennis Lacy
Ace-Garageguy Posted September 7, 2017 Posted September 7, 2017 Most excellent. Don't know how I missed it. Definitely my kind of build. Looks like it's s'posed to.
GerN Posted September 7, 2017 Posted September 7, 2017 Excellent work and great exposition and photos.
misterNNL Posted September 7, 2017 Posted September 7, 2017 Excellent build,carefully researched and accurately detailed. Thanks for sharing.
alan barton Posted September 8, 2017 Posted September 8, 2017 This is looking magic, Dennis. After seeing this last night, I got all my Don Montgomery books out and got back into a Monogram 32 hiboy project that had stalled year ago. I love how you have nailed a period correct stance on this model ( and all your others for that matter!)Make sure you trace that interior firewall template before you glue it in! Work like that is no easier the second time around and a lot of the cars from the era we love had setback firewalls. CheersAlan
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted September 8, 2017 Posted September 8, 2017 It's making us happy, too. Excellent work as always.... -RRR
Earl Marischal Posted September 8, 2017 Posted September 8, 2017 This is an excellent "how to" for those us (OK, just me then) who lack the knowledge for how to make these sort of modifications.steve
High octane Posted September 8, 2017 Posted September 8, 2017 Your project is lookin' great Dennis, and excellent workmanship.
Kit Karson Posted September 9, 2017 Posted September 9, 2017 (edited) Outstanding progress, ADL! it! Can't wait to see it Under Glass!! Two Thumbs Up!!! -KK Edited September 9, 2017 by Kit Karson
misterNNL Posted September 11, 2017 Posted September 11, 2017 Do I have my terminology backwards here....or are your front wishbones "unsplit" ?Either way I like your attitude of using what I have readily available for parts instread of ordering something custom to do the job.
Dennis Lacy Posted September 13, 2017 Author Posted September 13, 2017 Do I have my terminology backwards here....or are your front wishbones "unsplit" ?Either way I like your attitude of using what I have readily available for parts instread of ordering something custom to do the job. No, you have it right. The bones are split. It might be that the hanger brackets are attached to the inside of the frame rails that's throwing you off. Usually the brackets are on the outside or bottom so they're more obvious. I use very little aftermarket parts. Not that there is anything wrong with them (there's some really nice stuff out there!) but I just prefer to re purpose kit parts or scratch build what I need. I build this stuff for a living so re purposing and scratch building comes natural.
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted September 13, 2017 Posted September 13, 2017 ADL-it appears the split bone hangers are mounted to the outside of the frame on the 1:1 car. Are you going to leave your mounts on the inside of the frame? -RRR
Kit Karson Posted September 14, 2017 Posted September 14, 2017 (edited) ADL- it appears the split bone hangers are mounted to the outside of the frame on the 1:1 car. Are you going to leave your mounts on the inside of the frame? -RRR Looks like an apparent lack of space problem with the drag link coming awfully close to the split wish bone... -KK Edited September 14, 2017 by Kit Karson
Dennis Lacy Posted September 14, 2017 Author Posted September 14, 2017 ADL- it appears the split bone hangers are mounted to the outside of the frame on the 1:1 car. Are you going to leave your mounts on the inside of the frame? -RRR The reason the brackets are on the inside is (as KK correctly surmised) to get the 'bones tucked in a bit so there wouldn't be any interference with the steering link. As it turns out, there's a mile of clearance and the brackets could have been hung on the outside. If you look close at the real car, the mounts are on the outside but the tie rod ends on the 'bones come in from behind to get them tucked in a bit, for the same reason. I ain't buildin' no replica so I ain't gonna be changin' 'em...
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted September 14, 2017 Posted September 14, 2017 The reason the brackets are on the inside is (as KK correctly surmised) to get the 'bones tucked in a bit so there wouldn't be any interference with the steering link. As it turns out, there's a mile of clearance and the brackets could have been hung on the outside. If you look close at the real car, the mounts are on the outside but the tie rod ends on the 'bones come in from behind to get them tucked in a bit, for the same reason. I ain't buildin' no replica so I ain't gonna be changin' 'em... Got it there, chief! -RRR
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