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Making molded in chrome headlights look realistic


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This isn't a perfect solution Jay, but I've used something called "Faskolor" (a paint for Lexan bodies) and they have a "Faspearl White". I've used this on headlights, and it gives them a kind of frosted look which to me looks like headlight lenses. 

Here's a '59 Buick I built 10 years ago and I painted the headlights with this...................

PB083524.JPG

I'm not sure if it's sold in your area-------I've had the same bottle for years and the paint is still good. 

Hope this helps!

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Bill Geary's solution looks pretty realistic.  I just might look for some of that paint.  The alternative, of course is to drill the headlights out and put in some clear lenses.  The only kicker is that you will have to figure out a way to back the lenses up with other stock so that they look right.  The stock can be painted with silver paint.  After the paint is dry use clear epoxy to set the lens.  That way the silver paint will not soften and run. 

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I have questions about the actual drilling part of headlight modification. How is the hole kept centered? What is the best way to not ruin parts?

I'm thinking of using an end-cutting reamer to create a lip for the lens to sit in. Following that, perhaps a ball-nose end mill to create a round bottom bucket. Am I over-complicating this as I tend to do?

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I've searched for many years for a tool that would make drilling a hole centered in a circular rod, or headlight as you are. I even started the question here, though I can't find that one.

I've settled on using a set of brass tubes that allows me to have the outer tube that will surround the outer rod diameter and the close fit inner brass tubes that go down the an ID the same as the drill bit used to drill the hole.

hole centering DSC 1499

a few links I did find ...

 

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I have questions about the actual drilling part of headlight modification. How is the hole kept centered? What is the best way to not ruin parts?

I'm thinking of using an end-cutting reamer to create a lip for the lens to sit in. Following that, perhaps a ball-nose end mill to create a round bottom bucket. Am I over-complicating this as I tend to do?

I just carefully ream mine out with a variable speed dremel on a lower speed with various sized reamer bits.

Don't have to find the center, I just ream them until I get very close to the bezel lip & then finish with a round file.

 

Steve

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I just carefully ream mine out with a variable speed dremel on a lower speed with various sized reamer bits.

Don't have to find the center, I just ream them until I get very close to the bezel lip & then finish with a round file.

 

Steve

Steve, what type of reamer do you use? I have access to multiple style reamers and want to choose the correct one. Thanks!

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I've searched for many years for a tool that would make drilling a hole centered in a circular rod, or headlight as you are. I even started the question here, though I can't find that one.

I've settled on using a set of brass tubes that allows me to have the outer tube that will surround the outer rod diameter and the close fit inner brass tubes that go down the an ID the same as the drill bit used to drill the hole.

hole centering DSC 1499

a few links I did find ...

 

Thanks Mike, that tool is of great interest to me.

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Steve, what type of reamer do you use? I have access to multiple style reamers and want to choose the correct one. Thanks!

Actually, I usually drill out a small "pilot hole" with a drill bit as close to the center of the lens as I can.

Then I go to work with a cone shaped reamer bit with a base that is larger than the hole will be.

When I get close to the bezel edge I stop & do the same with the back side of the grille if possible.

Then I do as much clean out & fine work as necessary with a smaller straight bit of some sort.

These are the bits that I usually use.

 

DSCN6202DSCN6203DSCN6204

 

The fine ball shaped bits are for very fine work if needed.

I finish up with a round file & sanding sticks.

 

This is the bumper from my '67 Bonneville that I will be using soon, after drilling out & re-plating.

 

Steve

 

DSCN6206

 

 

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This isn't a perfect solution Jay, but I've used something called "Faskolor" (a paint for Lexan bodies) and they have a "Faspearl White". I've used this on headlights, and it gives them a kind of frosted look which to me looks like headlight lenses. I'm not sure if it's sold in your area-------I've had the same bottle for years and the paint is still good.

If not, there are four listings for Faspearl White on eBay right now. Thanks for the tip, Bill!

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IMO, the problem with simulating headlights by any means other than having a chromed reflector and a clear faceted lens is that it will lack the depth and sparkle of what a headlight should look like to your brain.  If you want an ultra-realistic looking model you need to go the extra mile and make a scale version of the real headlight.

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What if you took a picture of a "real" headlight, sized it accordingly, and printed a decal to fit over the kit headlight?

Some of the late '60s funny cars had airbrushed headlights on them that looked quite realistic. Unfortunately, the illusion only works from one particular viewing angle. View it from any other angle and it will look flat and wrong. Doing it from head-on might still look better than all-chrome headlights, though. I might have to try it.

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This isn't a perfect solution Jay, but I've used something called "Faskolor" (a paint for Lexan bodies) and they have a "Faspearl White". I've used this on headlights, and it gives them a kind of frosted look which to me looks like headlight lenses. 

Here's a '59 Buick I built 10 years ago and I painted the headlights with this...................

PB083524.JPG

I'm not sure if it's sold in your area-------I've had the same bottle for years and the paint is still good. 

Hope this helps!

This rates right up there with the "roll up windows' and "hand made engine pulleys". Just amazing, as usual. Thanks. Your great!

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