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Of Sharpie Markers and a Big Fat Mess ...


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So, I've read on several occasions in Scale Auto Mag, this site, and other locations, of people using Sharpie Markers to mark the trim on model car "glass".  Am I doing something wrong?  Is there some other type of Sharpie that I'm not aware of?  I'm using the standard permanent markers that you see at office stores, Michaels, Wal-Mart, etc.  

Any help or advice would be appreciated!

 

thanks!

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I am having trouble getting decent coverage - I have to make multiple passes.  But the later passes tend to pull up the ink from the earlier passes, even though I've washed the parts thoroughly beforehand.  And...getting a straight line seems to be a "challenge".  I'm open to suggestions. 

Bob, I've seen your work and this does seem to work - at least for you. :)  I've been trying the chisel tip - are all Sharpies ink, or is there some paint version out there?

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I am having trouble getting decent coverage - I have to make multiple passes.  But the later passes tend to pull up the ink from the earlier passes, even though I've washed the parts thoroughly beforehand.  And...getting a straight line seems to be a "challenge".  I'm open to suggestions. 

Bob, I've seen your work and this does seem to work - at least for you. :)  I've been trying the chisel tip - are all Sharpies ink, or is there some paint version out there?

It's not perfect; it does take multiple passes to layer and you have to let it dry a bit between layers. It's not going to be as good as a "properly" masked/painted (or Sharpie; easier overall when there's a pre-cut mask in the kit) technique, but if I use paint I use acrylics and I use canopy glue to attach the glass, which tends to soften the acrylic and it pulls away from the glass, the Sharpie is impervious. It does have a bluish cast if it's not layered. It takes some practice, for sure, and I get pretty good results with it. Straight lines are a lot easier when you apply the Sharpie at an angle where the Sharpie's wide chisel tip can take a "set" on the edge of the glass. Then it's a lot easier to control the tip as you go back and forth across the edge. Again, it takes a bit of practice, and at least you can use the same compounds used to polish paint to remove Sharpie ink and start over. You may perhaps find a Youtube video out there that might give some advice; that seems to be a medium that would best show a how-to in this regard. Sometimes after the Sharpie is applied if I find areas that are too translucent, I back it up w/a little brush-painted acrylic flat black.

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If you're talking about the black perimeter masking on the inside edges of the glass, it's easiest with the big black chisel tip Sharpie. The fine point nibs would be annoying to try to cover that. 

Yup. The big chisel "Professional" one seems to be loaded with a gloss black paint, not ink like the pointy ones. And it doesn't have the blue/purple tint, either. 

It's so nice to work with, I've given thought to seeing if a whole body can be "painted" with one, just for the helluvit. (I wouldn't try this on a project I really care about, though.)

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Is it just me or does the black sharpie look a little on the blue side?

Sharpie ink is actually very, very dark purple.  I usually don't use Sharpies for my models.  But since people like the convenience of using a marker, why not use a black paint marker?

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Sharpie ink is actually very, very dark purple.  I usually don't use Sharpies for my models.  But since people like the convenience of using a marker, why not use a black paint marker?

Because its easier to remove Sharpie ink from clear plastic then is to remove paint from clear plastic without messing up the clear plastic

A damp rag of 91proof alcohol and the Sharpie Ink is gone and you can give it another go.

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Because its easier to remove Sharpie ink from clear plastic then is to remove paint from clear plastic without messing up the clear plastic

A damp rag of 91proof alcohol and the Sharpie Ink is gone and you can give it another go.

If you use a paint marker on a clear plastic and you mess up, you will notice you messed up right away (won't you?). If the paint is not fully hardened then alcohol will remove it almost as easily as if it was Sharpie ink.

I'm not a big fan of Sharpies. The ink can be rubbed off easily and it also runs/bleeds easily when exposed to solvent from many paints.  it also has a glossy finish which is not really good for simulating rubber gaskets or trim (which is usually satin or flat).

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If you use a paint marker on a clear plastic and you mess up, you will notice you messed up right away (won't you?). If the paint is not fully hardened then alcohol will remove it almost as easily as if it was Sharpie ink.

I'm not a big fan of Sharpies. The ink can be rubbed off easily and it also runs/bleeds easily when exposed to solvent from many paints.  it also has a glossy finish which is not really good for simulating rubber gaskets or trim (which is usually satin or flat).

I dont use sharpie's on trim, I used them on the frosted area on the windows , for trim , I mask the body and use a either a flat black or semi gloss black paint.  

I agree , they do run and bleed so you cant expose them to solvents, which again , for what I use them for, they are perfect, I don't use paint or solvents on windows, so no worry there unless I want to tint the windows, then I must do it first.

 

 

 

 

Edited by martinfan5
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It's so nice to work with, I've given thought to seeing if a whole body can be "painted" with one, just for the helluvit. (I wouldn't try this on a project I really care about, though.)

It's been done. :) I picked up a '62 Fairlane annual years ago that had been "painted" with a black felt tip marker. Took forever to soak it off with alcohol.

And the finish? Well, it looked like a '62 Fairlane that had been attacked with a black felt tip marker. :D

 

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If you use a paint marker on a clear plastic and you mess up, you will notice you messed up right away (won't you?). If the paint is not fully hardened then alcohol will remove it almost as easily as if it was Sharpie ink.

I'm not a big fan of Sharpies. The ink can be rubbed off easily and it also runs/bleeds easily when exposed to solvent from many paints.  it also has a glossy finish which is not really good for simulating rubber gaskets or trim (which is usually satin or flat).

Not to mention that Sharpie Black tends to fade out, to a brown, over time.  The more exposure to light, the faster it fades.

Art

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