Matt Bacon Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 I saw these built up on the Revell stand at Scale Model World last weekend where they told me that they'd be available by "the end of the month" so I put in an order, and look what turned up today... It's a VERY big box, and could probably be 2/3 the size and still work fine... I went for the coupe because both build-ups looked very good, but I don't really like the clumsy hood on the convertible; for me the coupe has the classic lines. As it turns out, the couple is officially the new "Easy Click System" like the Porsche Tractor from earlier this year. Still many of the parts are exactly the same as the more conventional glue-together cabriolet. The price you pay for the easy click system is a few slight sink marks where the various pillars and sockets are found on the insides of parts. Quickly removed with dab of filler and some sanding sticks. The worst areas are the lower front corners, where the fenders turn round into the front valance. They aren't sink marks, I don't think, but actually some distortion when the body came out of the mould, leaving a wavy lower edge and a sunken depression. Despite the small size of the 356, it's going to be quite a sizeable model! So, now I need some advice. The plastic, as you can see, is red. I think I want to model a silver car with a red interior. I can use either Tamiya sprays or Zero 2K colours. If I use the Zero paint I'll probably want to put some sealer primer on first to be sure the red doesn't come out in to the clear coat. With Tamiya, and many light coats of paint and TS-13 clear, I think I don't need the primer. Because of the fact that this is a clip together kit, many of the tiny chrome details need to click into precisely cut slots and holes with a high precision fit. If I use the Zero paint and 2K clear, I'm worried that the thickness of the paint layer will mes up the fit of some of those details (the chrome hood center strip, for example). So what would you guys do? Tamiya or Zero? Any ideas about how best to get a silver car, clearcoat untainted by red dye, and still be able to fit the detail parts? best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps46 Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 Thanks for posting the pictures and please keep us posted on your build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike 51 Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 more pics of the kit parts please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 Nice. I want I want I want. The doors look like they fit really well too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy124 Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 On 19.11.2018 at 10:21 PM, Matt Bacon said: So, now I need some advice. The plastic, as you can see, is red. I think I want to model a silver car with a red interior. I can use either Tamiya sprays or Zero 2K colours. If I use the Zero paint I'll probably want to put some sealer primer on first to be sure the red doesn't come out in to the clear coat. With Tamiya, and many light coats of paint and TS-13 clear, I think I don't need the primer. Because of the fact that this is a clip together kit, many of the tiny chrome details need to click into precisely cut slots and holes with a high precision fit. If I use the Zero paint and 2K clear, I'm worried that the thickness of the paint layer will mes up the fit of some of those details (the chrome hood center strip, for example). So what would you guys do? Tamiya or Zero? Any ideas about how best to get a silver car, clearcoat untainted by red dye, and still be able to fit the detail parts? Don't know if I can give you advice but here are my thoughts on this... First off, I would definitely go for the Tamiya finish for reasons of realism. I saw the 2k varnish on your beautiful Ferrari 330 P4, which was "brilliantly" done but turned out too much of a sheen for a 60's car IMHO. Now we are talking about a 50's car... Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about the red plastic because silver does cover very well, doesn't it? Some modelers even use silver as an intermediate cover layer before applying "sensitive" basecoats. Example (at 3:54 mins): There is also a new kind of primer designed by Tamiya for this kind of dilemma, I believe: http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/85101/index.htm I have not used it so far, but imagine this could help... Finally, I think using ZP base coats does not necessarily mean you have to use ZP clear too. I'd image you get a glossy finish from Tamiya TS-13 aswell. I used Tamiya LP9 (which is the same stuff, only bottled for airbrush use) on a flat white ZP basecoat for my Porsche 962 and it worked nicely... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deathgoblin Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 This looks like a great kit! Can't wait to see how it builds up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 I'm gonna enjoy following this!!! -if it were me, i'd use Tamiya over Zero ANY day!, and as to parts fitment, I always sand to anticipate paint, and finish thickness, so I sand all parts til they seat-down all the way, with a bit of a wiggle to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted November 21, 2018 Author Share Posted November 21, 2018 Thanks, guys... fairly rapid progress tonight: Only four parts to the first stage of the engine, but they are nicely rendered, especially the engine block and transmission. And this is how they go together. Humbrol Metalcote Aluminium and Steel, and a bit of Citadel wash. Some sprue shots to feast your eyes on. The chrome is particularly finely rendered. Tires, and the essential super-sharp DSPIAE cutters and fresh #11 blade to cut out the middle part Wheels made up: note the recess for the outer wheel rim. I didn't, at first ;-P Front axle. The pins on the wheel carriers are a tight fit. And fragile. Don't ask me how I know. Make sure there is no paint on either the wheel carrier pins or axle bearings before fitting them together. Doh! The parts on the left are alternatives, of which the top one is the one for this kit. I'm guessing that the glue-fix cabriolet comes with separate coil, coolant reservoir and thingy. Talking of thingies, does anyone who knows Porsche 356s better than me know what this is? It's made up from some "unused" parts from the engine sprue which clearly fit together to make a... loud-hailer? ;-P And that's it for tonight. A bit of restrained weathering to come on this side, and the rest of the engine up top. best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennyg Posted November 22, 2018 Share Posted November 22, 2018 I’ve got this kit coming in the mail along with the Ford GT Le Mans 2017. I’m really looking forward to both. That weathering looks ace. Will be watching. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted November 22, 2018 Share Posted November 22, 2018 Looks like you're doing a fine job. Having spent quite literally hundreds of hours under, over, around and through 356s, I have some criticisms of tooling decisions that were made, but all in all, the kit seems to be fairly accurate. One BIG gripe I have is the failure to tool the wheels with separate hubcaps. This is going to make it unnecessarily difficult to build the thing as a race car or "outlaw", and builders wanting to do just that are most likely a rather large segment of the potential buyers. I'm also curious as to why the B was chosen as the subject. In the real world, the A and C/SC series cars are vastly more desirable and valuable. As far as the"loudhailer" goes, my guess is that somebody along the line interpreted an alarm siren as an essential part of a Porsche, and just mindlessly tooled it...rather like the Soviets copied completely unnecessary and non-essential markings when they duplicated a B-29. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted November 22, 2018 Share Posted November 22, 2018 Nice looking kit! Too bad that it continues the current trend of molding tires with featureless sidewalls. I guess we can thank all the lawyers who protect the trade names of tire companies for this. It is so silly. A model is basically a free advertisement for a company if the logos appear on the model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagercr Posted November 22, 2018 Share Posted November 22, 2018 That is a nice looking kit and can't wait to get one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy124 Posted November 22, 2018 Share Posted November 22, 2018 Looks like a good kit and it's coming along nice... 11 hours ago, Matt Bacon said: Front axle. The pins on the wheel carriers are a tight fit. And fragile. Don't ask me how I know. Make sure there is no paint on either the wheel carrier pins or axle bearings before fitting them together. Doh! I hate those plastic pins. Have you considered cutting them and replacing them with pieces wire of the same diamater? 9 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said: As far as the"loudhailer" goes, my guess is that somebody along the line interpreted an alarm siren as an essential part of a Porsche, and just mindlessly tooled it... My guess would be that this part is supposed to be used for a German highway police version that is probably a (future?) option for this kit. Here's an image of the original (convertible!) car: https://www.classicdriver.com/de/article/autos/als-die-polizei-noch-porsche-fuhr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted November 22, 2018 Author Share Posted November 22, 2018 Little recap. Here are the engine parts: I was going to live with the moulded in detail, but the more I looked at it, the more I thought I couldn't. It's not even a "because God can see" thing... the engine is pretty visible, and accessible: even in this clip together version the rear engine cover hinges open. So I thought I'd investigate those "unused parts" on the sprues... It's not hard to find Porsche 356B engine bay pictures online, and even better, on the right is a picture of the made up engine bay of the cabriolet version from the box side. This is very useful... On the left, the half-moulded engine part we're supposed to use; in the centre, the empty half I'm going to use, and the other parts marked "for use"; and on the right, all the parts I can find that are marked "not for use". Immediately useful: those little conical nubbins and the generator mounting bracket. So what do we need? Coil, oil filter/header tank and filler reservoir, distributor, and some miscellaneous wiring and pipe work... Assorted tube of various diameters, coloured bits of sprue (look how neatly those clippers slice through even thick rods of the stuff!), plastic card, solder, and a bunch of coloured wires. Let's get started... On further investigation, this is too tall. That's what you get when you copy the moulding without looking closely enough at your pictures of the real thing. I can cut it down with a razor saw quickly enough! The bodywork and interior are on hold while supplies arrive from the paint shop, so this will be the focus of activity for a few days. best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennyg Posted November 23, 2018 Share Posted November 23, 2018 Very cool. I’ll build one box stock, then a second one detailed. Hopefully some does some outlaw wheels. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianC Posted November 23, 2018 Share Posted November 23, 2018 (edited) The loudhailer looks somewhat like a siren - these were used as police cars if I remember and may be a hint of another version in the future perhaps? The centre looks a little funky though...... Edited November 23, 2018 by BrianC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted December 3, 2018 Author Share Posted December 3, 2018 A new thing to try out: Tamiya TS-101. It's specifically designed to cover and seal coloured plastic. It's slightly odd, and definitely different from the regular white primer. It cures to a shiny and very tough coat. Which provides a good base for the Gloss Aluminium... Engine parts taking shape: oil filter/reservoir, oil filler, distributor and coil. Turned in a drill chuck to shape the sprue as needed. Interior parts... mostly painted with Citadel reds and washes, and some drybrushing. best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted December 3, 2018 Author Share Posted December 3, 2018 OK, I think I'm calling the engine done: let's open the hood... I love the decal for the fan belt... I don't think any amount of detail painting and stickers is going to make this look much like the original... best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennyg Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 Wow! Looks ace. What you’ve done has made a massive difference. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitbash1 Posted December 4, 2018 Share Posted December 4, 2018 Your " Loud-Hailer " is for a Police version of the 356. German Police used these on the Auto-Bahn. I'm surprisied that the decal sheet doesn't come with the Polizei ( Police in Greman ) script or the police licence plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy124 Posted December 4, 2018 Share Posted December 4, 2018 On 21.11.2018 at 1:53 PM, Tommy124 said: There is also a new kind of primer designed by Tamiya for this kind of dilemma, I believe: http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/85101/index.htm 23 hours ago, Matt Bacon said: A new thing to try out: Tamiya TS-101. It's specifically designed to cover and seal coloured plastic. It's slightly odd, and definitely different from the regular white primer. It cures to a shiny and very tough coat. Nice to see this stuff worked out. The Aluminium looks good too. No need for a clear coat, just some polishing will do for a contempory finish IMHO... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share Posted December 4, 2018 Thanks, all... got the interior mostly together now: Nice little Porsche decal for the gear shift... the decals in this kit are excellent, actually, even though the stickers are probably more what they expect you to use. One important point, which I should have guessed: you need to make sure that the all the tabs and slots for the snap fit parts are paint free. The engineering is very precise, and unforgiving.. Bonnet fits very well, opens and closes smoothly, and has pretty tight shut-lines! best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted December 5, 2018 Author Share Posted December 5, 2018 Dashboard is done now. The instruments are chromed discs that pop into place, with decals over the top, and finished with Citadel 'ardcoat varnish: Clearly there's a version on the way with some kind of console under the dash. There's no sign of it in the regular cabrios I can find online, but it looks like the Dutch Rijkspolizei had a radio down there, which probably also explains why the glovebox door is a separate part. So, that's the interior tub completed. The doors are built around the framing in the bodyshell, so I hope popping the interior in will be straightforward! best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennyg Posted December 5, 2018 Share Posted December 5, 2018 Very nicely done. I love the colours you’ve gone with. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deathgoblin Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 Your interior looks amazing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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