Snake45 Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 20 hours ago, Oldcarfan27 said: Another one was a 94 Mustang GT convertible conversion, that I made using a blue molded coupe and a red molded convertible windshield post and conv top well area. I primered the finished body in grey and ONLY the red plastic areas turned pink, so I know that red plastic does have an effect on the paint. Isn't it funny how no one ever complains about blue, green, or even black styrene "bleeding through" white? I suspect that the wavelength of red/orange light--it's at one end of the visible spectrum, but I never can remember whether it's long wavelength or short--has something to do with the color's ability to peek through too-thin (not opaque enough) paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 At the risk of repeating myself, go get some Mr. Hobby Mr. White Surfacer, available in 500/1000/1200. 100% opacity and no bleed-through from dyes found in certain colored styrenes used by the different model companies. Mr. Hobby is also available in gray, black and red oxide up to 1500. I used the 1000 white surfacer to prime a red Johan Desoto Adventurer body. The red styrene formulation Johan used to make various kits was/is notorious for leaching dyes. Mr. Hobby is the best primer I've ever used to prevent this leaching through primers and paints. The true test to measure the opacity and coverage of this, or any other, surfacer/primer is to hold one of them fancy-schmancy mini flashlights with a high intensity krypton bulb against the body/parts and turn it on. If the beam doesn't penetrate or shows through allowing the color of the plastic to be visible, it ain't gonna leach. The coverage and absolute opacity of the Mr. Hobby Surfacer is so complete that the light beam is completely blocked. Doubt it? Try this and see for yourself. If you think my tip is a waste of time, spray your parts flat black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vamach1 Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 Mr. Hobby's cousin Dr. Evil suggests using a mini laser to test the paint . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Belugawrx Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 (edited) This is a red plastic corvette hood...I needed it to be Wimbledon White... I started by spraying Duplicolor Silver Then Duplicolor Primer/Sealer Then I sprayed Duplicolor Wimbledon White ....nice huh... Then as it dried.. That will not do, under digital camo, no sir... So it's Flat black Edited January 4, 2019 by Belugawrx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
935k3 Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 Another option that works well Is BIN sealer. Their cans do not spray well though. I decant and airbrush it. Use regular primer first then seal it with BIN. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 I second what Dale said. I've been using BIN for years and have never had an issue with crazed plastic or bleed through. And yes, decanted in your airbrush is 100% better than straight from the can. Or you can go big and get this................ This will last you a loooong time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Basher Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 4 hours ago, MrObsessive said: I second what Dale said. I've been using BIN for years and have never had an issue with crazed plastic or bleed through. And yes, decanted in your airbrush is 100% better than straight from the can. How does the BIN primer sand? Being shellac based, I would expect it to be a bit gummy. Do you thin it with denatured alcohol? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 1 hour ago, Kit Basher said: How does the BIN primer sand? Being shellac based, I would expect it to be a bit gummy. Do you thin it with denatured alcohol? With the BIN sealer run through my airbrush, I don't really need to do any sanding. No, it's not gummy-----at least not that I've ever experienced. Yes, 91% alcohol is good to thin it with. I use my old Badger Crescendo for putting it on. Here are a few pics of models that I built in the past that I sealed with the BIN Zinsser before putting on the main primer coat and then color coats. My recent resto '74 Corvette......... Dodge Viper............ And the '59 Impala....... Now mind you none of these models were molded in red. My point here is that even for heavy bodywork such as was done on the Impala, BIN is great for sealing the plastic against the hotter solvents in the paint which many times does not play nice with body putties. If it seals against that, it'll keep the red out which in the case of the newer-softer plastics I highly advise anyway. Hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldcarfan27 Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 7 hours ago, MrObsessive said: Now why would they make this product if color bleed was a myth? House paint manufacturers also make a primer that blocks dark colors in preparation for a lighter new color. Color bleed DOES happen! It has something to do with the type of color pigment and it's dominance over lighter colors. Belugawrx's pictures are a clear example of the red "staining" the multiple coats and various types of paints. Even with 3 different coats of paint, the final white color still dried pink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 49 minutes ago, Oldcarfan27 said: Now why would they make this product if color bleed was a myth? House paint manufacturers also make a primer that blocks dark colors in preparation for a lighter new color. Oh, color bleed exists--from paint. Put white paint over red paint, you're gonna get bleed, no argument from me. Sharpie ink will also migrate up through paint. Seen it happen. I've just seen no evidence that pigment is "leaching" or "bleeding" or otherwise migrating out of solid plastic. No one can tell me the chemical that can do this (that doesn't also dissolve the plastic itself). No one has shown me a red body that's been painted and stripped and is now LESS red than it was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Belugawrx Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 Semantics,.... Red plastic,...unless properly treated, will "show" thru at final coat,..most prevalent at final Clear... call it what you will bleed or otherwise,..it happens.. I thought we were trying to find a solution to a question posed by the OP...?> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 11 minutes ago, Belugawrx said: Semantics,.... Red plastic,...unless properly treated, will "show" thru at final coat,..most prevalent at final Clear... call it what you will bleed or otherwise,..it happens.. I thought we were trying to find a solution to a question posed by the OP...?> I'm not arguing that point at all. Yes, it can and will show through given the chance. I've pointed out some products that worked for me--Walmart Gray and White primers. Others have had success with other products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berr13 Posted January 5, 2019 Author Share Posted January 5, 2019 1 hour ago, Belugawrx said: Semantics,.... Red plastic,...unless properly treated, will "show" thru at final coat,..most prevalent at final Clear... call it what you will bleed or otherwise,..it happens.. I thought we were trying to find a solution to a question posed by the OP...?> Hey, don't mind me! I'm the OP, and I'm learning a little, or a lot, from each post. Keep at it, guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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