Decal fluids, yes or no.....

[SCRWDRVR]

I have never used Micro Set or Micro Sol and resently bought them and Liquid Decal Film to try but want to see who else uses it and if you use it on all your decals or just the tough to set.

What’s everyone’s opinion of it?

[cobraman]

I have not tried those brand but I do use Solveset on any decals that do not sit on flat areas. It really does help settle decals down in tough spots.

[espo]

When I have had problems with decals my go to product has been Solvaset. This is not that it is any better than any other product, it's just that is what I first used and the bottle I have was purchased over 20 years ago and it still works perfect for my needs. I don't use it on every decal, but when you have a door seem or compound body curve it is a must. Think of the Z-28 style stripes on a Cowl Induction Camaro Hood. I suggest experimentation with an old unwanted decal on a spoon where the handle blends into the spoon portion. This will give you an idea of how the solution, no matter who you use, will react. One note to watch for is how the decal reacts. The way these products work is that the decal film will start to lay down and lose its shape and it will become very possible to tear the decal. Some of the tools that I use to help are a very soft fine paint brush and a flat tooth pick. You can use the wetted paint brush to get under the decal to move it around. The tooth pick being flat and not sharp minimizes the possibility of tearing the decal. One other tip that has worked for me when doing say a body graphic that crosses a door seem. I wait until the decal has setup but not 100 % dry yet, I'll then lightly cut the decal at the door seem and just the smallest drop of solution in the area and this lits the decal settle into the seem and will not leave the air bubble look when it dries.    

[magicmustang]

I have never used any of the said solvents on decals, but when I have a problem on a decal laying down I rock over the wrinkle with a curved xacto blade to relieve the pressure. I then coat the decals and entire painted body with a coat of Future acrylic polish. That stuff is amazing. I have 50 year old decaled model cars that still look as good as when I finished them. No chipping, no cracking, no fading, and no yellowing.  

Edited December 22, 2018 by magicmustang

[Dave Van]

Solvaset here..........

Walthers hobby kinda invented aftermarket decals back in the 1930's for the model railroad guys. They also invented Solvaset. It's the only thing I use and use it almost every decal. When I apply a decal I put a few drops of water where the decal will go and a tiny drop of Solvaset. This really help keep air out from under the decal. If it needs more I apply it with a brush. Solvaset is HOT so use it as little as possible to get the decal to conform. It will sometimes wrinkle too....leave it alone.....it will pull back out. 

[aurfalien]

I've used MicroSet and MicroSol (great products) and was looking forward to using there Liquid Decal Film for improving older decals.

The MicroSet is a nice all around solution however there MicroSol should be used sparingly as it runs hot.  I've used it for stubborn curved areas etc...

What worked for me was to let the decals dry for about a minute and then slowly brush on either little by little.

Some reviews;

 

 

[SCRWDRVR]

Thanks for the input guys, I will definitely be using it on those tricky curves. I will have to test it out on some decals I don't need and I really like that spoon idea I'll do that as soon as I get though the holidays and have a little more time.

[restoman]

I'm currently doing a Dale Jarrett Nascar model, and am using both Micro Set and Decal film. I ruined the first set of decals, they tore so easily and when they didn't rip, they just wouldn't lay down and stay. I ordered a new set and coated them with the film - two coats -and use the Micro Set to help them lay down. Even then, it's slow going... some I had to float into place with Future and keep some pressure on the edges till they stayed.

[THarrison351]

I've used all three and heat with good and bad results. Mostly good on aftermarket decals. Older OE decals usually never showed any change with any product. I only found out about heat in the last ten years. I haven't built any kits lately to use OE decals so I don't know if they have changed the way they're being made and I've not had a need to try heat,

[styromaniac]

Good tips here on application techniques for difficult decal sets. How about the salvaging of old decals? I've seen posts about saving old decals by applying a coat of MicroScale liquid decal film. I've also read that spraying a coat of clear lacquer or clear fixative also works . I have both but haven't tried it yet on vintage decals to prevent cracking and disintegration. Was wondering who out there has tried it and what the results were.

[martinfan5]

I use Mr Mark Softener and Tamiya's strong solution, I still have the Mirco twins, but rarely use them now , as my opinion the Micro SET/SOL is not very strong and you seem to have to use more to get the same results as the ones from Mr Hobby and Tamiya.  The Mr Mark is a very hot solution and I regularly ruin decals because of that(its a set it and forget it )

Edited December 23, 2018 by martinfan5

[niteowl7710]

MicroSet & MicroSol (or any of the branded two sets like Tamiya's) are sort of the intro to a misbehaving decal. Solvaset is the nuclear option by comparison. It will pistol whip almost anything, but it can also eat decals if you get to heavy handed with it.

[espo]

I have only tried Testors Decal Bonder with some very old decals. I have only done two sets this way and it worked for me. Beyond that I'm sure there is many other options that other builders will share with you.