Model A Five-Window Coupe

[Straightliner59]

3 hours ago, misterNNL said:

I have used those quarter elliptical springs myself on a couple speedsters. Nice detail

Thanks, Tom. Those springs go right along with the Rolls axle I found for the project. The quarter-elliptic springs just scream "early race car".

[Straightliner59]

I had to move the rear crossmember up. The car was just going to sit too high, if I hadn't. I have the rear suspension mostly worked out.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Lotsa good stuff going on here...

[Mr. Metallic]

I may have missed the explanation, but why did you make the choice to link the spring to the brake backing plates? I don't think I've seen it done that way before as opposed to the typical link to the axle. Not saying it's wrong, but curious why you did it that way. I'm always looking to learn. 

[Straightliner59]

7 hours ago, Mr. Metallic said:

I may have missed the explanation, but why did you make the choice to link the spring to the brake backing plates? I don't think I've seen it done that way before as opposed to the typical link to the axle. Not saying it's wrong, but curious why you did it that way. I'm always looking to learn. 

I did it that way, because, when I built "The Bug", that's how it was done, so, I did it out of familiarity. When I was looking for photos, it became apparent that guys mounted them in whatever way worked for them. It's not too late to change it, if it sits too high!

[Straightliner59]

A very small update: I made these front wheel/hub covers by using various diameters of tubing to form sift aluminum sheet (tooling aluminum) over a kit wheel. I then used a hole punch to remove it from the sheet. I will clean up the edges, a bit, but, I think that worked out, pretty well!

[oldnslow]

Do you have a tutorial on lacing the front wheels ?

[Straightliner59]

1 hour ago, oldnslow said:

Do you have a tutorial on lacing the front wheels ?

I don't. All I did was cut out a spoke at a time, and replace it with .008" brass wire (rod). That kept everything aligned! It was pretty easy, it just took some time.

[oldnslow]

Thanks

 

[afx]

Wheels look great Daniel.

[Straightliner59]

1 hour ago, afx said:

Wheels look great Daniel.

Thanks, JC. Much appreciated! I got the stance finalized. The rear wheels aren't attached to the axles, yet.  The one in these photos has rolled forward. It will be in the proper location, once everything is in place.

[Straightliner59]

This is how the rear suspension ended up. The spring is now mounted to the axle, rather than the backing plate. Now, I can move on to the front spring/axle.

[OldNYJim]

This is a great build, I’m really enjoying it!

Quick question - who makes those nice model railroad bolts?  I’ve been looking for some like that for a project 

[Straightliner59]

3 hours ago, CabDriver said:

This is a great build, I’m really enjoying it!

Quick question - who makes those nice model railroad bolts?  I’ve been looking for some like that for a project 

Thanks, Jim! Glad you're enjoying it. Grandt Line makes them (if they're still around). I think some may have been Detail Associates. Tichy Train Group has a good selection of plastic ones. Generally the HO scale ones fall in the best range of sizes for 1/24-1/25th scale models.

[OldNYJim]

Brilliant!  Thank you!  I’ve got a bunch of their plastic ones, but I hadn’t seen the brass ones before.  Cool!  

[alan barton]

If this forum is anything to go by, we seem to be going through a golden age of hot rod building over the last twelve months or so.  There are probably a dozen members here building absolutely stunning rods, whether they be styled form the forties, the fifties, the sixties right up to today.  Seems like every time I log in there is something cool and inspirational to look at. And Daniel, your coupe illustrates exactly what I am talking about!

Such thoughtful design, and attention to detail, so that when the model is completed, I am sure, we will just look at it and go  "oh yeah!"

But I am glad you took the spring perches off the backing plates!  In real life that could only have ended in tears!

Cheers

Alan

[Mike Williams]

Hi Dan, looking good!

Excellent work and great incentive for moving a step forward for our modeling experience.

Mike..

[Straightliner59]

4 hours ago, CabDriver said:

Brilliant!  Thank you!  I’ve got a bunch of their plastic ones, but I hadn’t seen the brass ones before.  Cool!  

The brass ones are especially nice in places where strength is needed. Hope you found some you can use!

 

2 hours ago, alan barton said:

If this forum is anything to go by, we seem to be going through a golden age of hot rod building over the last twelve months or so.  There are probably a dozen members here building absolutely stunning rods, whether they be styled form the forties, the fifties, the sixties right up to today.  Seems like every time I log in there is something cool and inspirational to look at. And Daniel, your coupe illustrates exactly what I am talking about!

Such thoughtful design, and attention to detail, so that when the model is completed, I am sure, we will just look at it and go  "oh yeah!"

But I am glad you took the spring perches off the backing plates!  In real life that could only have ended in tears!

Cheers

Alan

Thank you, Alan! I appreciate those kind words, sir! As I previously mentioned, I had mounted it that way, because The Bug was done that way. Of course, that car was built to go straight, whether on the track, or the lakes. You're right! Probably not very conducive to all-around driving. Plus, I needed to move them, because it just sat too high.

2 hours ago, Mike Williams said:

Hi Dan, looking good!

Excellent work and great incentive for moving a step forward for our modeling experience.

Mike..

Thanks, Mike! I've been watching your Old Master come together. Looks like it is getting close! Good job!

[Straightliner59]

Some of the assemblies are getting close to completion of the "figgerin' out" phase. I made the front spring perches from three pieces of brass, each. I used an HO handrail stanchion for the main structure. The eye for the shackles is 3/64" brass tube, cut 3/32" long. That tube was then soldered to the handrail stanchion. Finally, I cut a 1/32" length of the 3/64" tube, to slide over the peg end of the stanchion, to give the assembly some elevation. The ball end of the stanchion will mount the shock arm. In this group of photos, everything is white glued to the chassis.

One of my goals for this project, is to attempt to assemble the entire thing, be it pinned or white glued, before It's disassembled and painted. I have never really focused on that aim, but, I have had to accept many flaws, over the years, because I got too far ahead of myself.

[Straightliner59]

Early this morning, I was digging parts from the kit box, and discovered that the  lid for the rumble seat is missing. I thought about trying to find a parts kit I could pick up, for a reasonable price. Looking at the open space in the body, I decided it wouldn't be too difficult to make one. I got out a section of .030" sheet and began working it to shape, sanding it to size. I began by "cold curling" the sheet. Once I'd gotten it as close to shape as it would go, sans heat, I turned the blow dryer on  low heat, and applied that, for as long as I comfortably could, while pulling the curves tighter. After repeating that a couple of times, I had a panel that's usable. Since I'm not going to have an opening trunk/rumble seat, I can cement it into its final position. I ended up giving the panel one more heat treatment, after these photos were taken. It fits better, now.

[gman]

Your new lid will probably fit much better than the kit-supplied one.

Out of the box, there are large gaps and fit isn't 100% optimum anyhow. An acceptable fit with the kit's trunk/rumble seat lid requires building up the sides with styrene to close those gaps for a proper scale appearance.

[Straightliner59]

1 hour ago, gman said:

Your new lid will probably fit much better than the kit-supplied one.

Out of the box, there are large gaps and fit isn't 100% optimum anyhow. An acceptable fit with the kit's trunk/rumble seat lid requires building up the sides with styrene to close those gaps for a proper scale appearance.

Thanks, Greg! It fits tightly, now, for sure. All I need to do is ease the edges, and cement it into place.

[Straightliner59]

Front axle is mounted...

[Straightliner59]

I've got a few more things done. I got the trunk lid cemented into place. The spindles are built. If I can get the front axle remounted before I go to bed, I can get it on the wheels! Always a big step! As always, questionsm comments and critiques are welcome.

[afx]

Very nice work Daniel.